"Car Wax:
To avoid over drying, wax your car one section at a time.
½ cup melted ceresin wax
2 tbsp. melted yellow beeswax
2 cups turpentine
1 tbsp. pine oil
1) In a double boiler, heat the ceresin wax and beeswax. Stir, and then allow to cool until the mixture starts to harden. Stir in the turpentine and pine oil.
2) To use, apply with a rag; polish with a soft cloth."
basically the same...
"Car Wax
Here is a recipe to make your own car wax. To avoid over drying whilst waxing, just wax your car one section at a time.
To make enough for 1 waxing
*
8oz/225g carnauba wax
*
2 tablespoons yellow beeswax
*
16 floz/450ml turpentine
*
1 tablespoon pine oil
In a double boiler, heat the carnauba wax and beeswax. Stir, then leave to cool until the mixture just starts to harden. Stir in the turpentine and pine oil. To use, dip a rag into the mixture, rub onto the car’s surface and then polish with a soft cloth."
LOL, thanks Charles.

Actually, I already have S100...I gotta use it on my car sometime...I've been having fun with Meguiars Gold Class liquid and my [fairly new] PC...need some new pads now, so it might be the time to whip it out again.
I think I got burn't out on this polyethylene/styrene thing tonight, but I just might be able to make poly-urethane work...the varnish type stuff...but maybe mixing it in with a wax would be pointless since it couldn't "bond". Hmm, I'll have to work on this one...maybe I should just try silicone first, since it seems to be less picky. I read a silicone sealer tube and it said "polydimethylsiloxane" which is supposedly the "good" kind of silicone. In a new batch, I would pre-mix mineral spirits and this PDMS silicone, and add that to the wax/oil.
Maybe I should just forget the whole idea...the pan was slightly smoking as my mom was helping me pour the mineral spirits in. Nah, I'll just be more careful next time...I think it was some of the polystyrene smoking off...Acetelyene stuff for torch welding leaves soot in the air which you can actually see falling as little bits when the flame is adjusted...very improperly. Just thought I'd add that for some reason.
If this is the end of the road without being a chemist, I think I've learned a lot and have developed a suitable topper/motorcycle wax. I think S100 would still slightly beat it in the category of ease of use, and most likely by a long shot in longevity. I'll have to monitor my test subject to see how it holds up.
Thanks lawrencea for your ideas. I'm definately going to try some of them! I'd sure like to know how the solvents, waxes, and water combined, though...hmm? I did a search, and all I could find is what I quoted in the beginning of this post.
I think I have a few more combinations to play with before I throw the towel in, though.
Kev