M80 Speed Glaze questions

johny

New member
I did a search, but couldn't find the answers I was looking for.



Can someone tell me if M80 is safe for glass and plastic, like say KAIO or Z-AIO?



Also, what does the typical lifespan seem to be for M80 without an additional LSP applied? At least a few months?



Thanks in advance!
 
You can use M80 on glass. But you will get white stains when used on plastic bumpers. It has no lsp. Just a little bit of fillers. These will go away after just a couple of washes. You will need to folow up M80 with a wax.
 
M80 *does* leave behind protective qualities that can be beneficial to new paint. As the above poster stated, it won't last long. If worked properly it does not fill at all.
 
Johny, are you thinking of M80 Speed Glaze as a "glaze," as that word is defined here on Autopia? M80 is an abrasive polish and is intended to remove paint defects. On the Meguiar's cut meter, it enjoys a cut of 4. It should therefore not be applied to plastic trim (it's probably best to tape off the trim), and the abrasives are not large enough to do any good on glass.



M80 can be used to provide very modest protection on fresh paint, while you are waiting for the paint to cure sufficiently to allow you to wax it (M80, Paintable Polymer, and Fresh Paint), but the protection will not last long.
 
SpoiledMan said:
.. If worked properly it does not fill at all.



Differing experience here. I'm confident that I use it properly, but it does a little bit of concealing for me. Probably from residual Trade Secret Oils, or maybe the paint-safe polymers...I dunno just what does it, but sometimes it happens with *VERY* light marring on very hard paint. Not a biggie though and I don't worry about it.



No, I don't mean it "contains fillers" or anything like that, just that I'd do an IPA wipe if it's essential to verify that nothing is concealed.



Mike Phillips and I discussed this at length long ago...IIRC we decided we were arguing semantics more than actual results.
 
Wow ... I really appreciate everyone's responses. That is why I love this community.



I was hoping that M80 could maybe serve as a quick solution for my details, in case I was low on time.



I was hoping it could save time by not taping off the trim (if it was safe for glass and plastic). I also hoped it would provide good correction as well as protection.



Thanks again for everyone's input!
 
Accumulator you're right in that it does fill/leave oils whether it's used properly or not. I'd like to think I use it properly as I get great results from it, but if I use it on a test spot that needs something more abrasive, the surface is definitely different before and after an IPA wipedown.
 
lecchilo- Yeah, I just think of #80 as one of those products I might not reach for depending on what my overall plan is.



johny said:
I was hoping that M80 could maybe serve as a quick solution for my details, in case I was low on time.



I was hoping it could save time by not taping off the trim (if it was safe for glass and plastic). I also hoped it would provide good correction as well as protection.



Then #80 probably isn't what you're after.



I've used 1Z Paint Polish for one-steps, but it doesn't last long.



I bet the cut of ZAIO is close to #80 on most paints, and it'll leave a lot more durable stuff behind.



Or some other polish (M205 sure comes to mind), topped with some LSP like Collinite 845 that goes on/off quickly and easily. IMO there are two-step processes that are about as fast overall as most one-step ones.
 
toyotaguy said:
use something like PRC, 151 frome meguiars...





I second that. Sounds like exactly what the OP is after. More cut than M80 and leaves behind true protection.



On another note. M80 will fill no question. I have used a lot of it. It's not a bad thing though really. M80 is designed to be a cleaner/polish in Meg's terms.



It's supposed to cut like a true polish yet leaving some oils on the paint like a pure polish/glaze (i.e: #7).



That's how it provides so much gloss even if there isn't a ton of correction done. M80 can't touch M205 as far as how *clear or sharp* the paint gets but it's tough to beat on how wet it makes paint look.
 
I just wanted to thank everyone again for all the information ... I usually tape off my car and do a two-step treatment: cleaner polish and wax/sealant.



I was using Z-AIO for awhile, but I wanted something with a little more cut and longevity. I may just go back to using Z-AIO with Z-CS. I am using a Meguiar's G110 DA buffer.



It's nice to know there are good, quick products out there for time crunches.
 
johny said:
I just wanted to thank everyone again for all the information ... I usually tape off my car and do a two-step treatment: cleaner polish and wax/sealant.



I was using Z-AIO for awhile, but I wanted something with a little more cut and longevity. I may just go back to using Z-AIO with Z-CS. I am using a Meguiar's G110 DA buffer.



It's nice to know there are good, quick products out there for time crunches.



A bit off topic, but, I have done extensive testing with ZAIO, and it will cut really well if you use pressure. However, if its soft paint it will haze the finish and then require another application. ZCS under performs, I have been through a bottle and ordered another recently hoping they would have improved it, nope. Try ZAIO -> FK 1000P, you will not be disappointed in looks nor durability/protection.
 
NSXTASY said:
A bit off topic, but, I have done extensive testing with ZAIO, and ... if its soft paint it will haze the finish...



And for this same reason it can't always be used on the kind of plastic that KAIO is safe for.
 
johny said:
Wow ... I really appreciate everyone's responses. That is why I love this community.



I was hoping that M80 could maybe serve as a quick solution for my details, in case I was low on time.



I was hoping it could save time by not taping off the trim (if it was safe for glass and plastic). I also hoped it would provide good correction as well as protection.



Thanks again for everyone's input!



M80 is designed specially for those reasons, it is a favorite amongst used car and car dealers that require a one step product that will remove defects, glaze or fill up minor swirls and scratches and provide a limited amount of protection just to have the car delivered to the customer.



I use Poli-Seal for better paint conditions and M80 for those in worse conditions that require more bite.



This is not to say that you can't use M80 as a detailer's polish, far from it you can work M80 over several passes and it will eliminate swirlies. I also like he fact that M80 has a very long shelf life unlike other Megs products that tend to settle and mold when exposed to air.
 
EdLancer said:
M80 is designed specially for those reasons, it is a favorite amongst used car and car dealers that require a one step product that will remove defects, glaze or fill up minor swirls and scratches and provide a limited amount of protection just to have the car delivered to the customer.



THe upside of machine glazes is the long working time, and very lubricated cutting action.



After the finish is polished and oiled, you'll want to top it with some kind of pure wax. E.g Mothers NF Carnauba.
 
EdLancer said:
M80 is designed specially for those reasons, it is a favorite amongst used car and car dealers that require a one step product that will remove defects, glaze or fill up minor swirls and scratches and provide a limited amount of protection just to have the car delivered to the customer.



I use Poli-Seal for better paint conditions and M80 for those in worse conditions that require more bite.



This is not to say that you can't use M80 as a detailer's polish, far from it you can work M80 over several passes and it will eliminate swirlies. I also like he fact that M80 has a very long shelf life unlike other Megs products that tend to settle and mold when exposed to air.





I Agree, I like this stuff.. Easy of use, nice results with a polish pad.

I use it all the time.
 
I did some reading on Meguiar's D151 (Paint Reconditioning Cream) ... it seems like a cool product. I'm glad people mentioned it because I would have otherwise ignored it.



Is D151 safe for glass and plastic? Not a big deal, but I was curious.
 
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