m205 vs d300 cutting ability via microfiber pads

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imported_Time2Shine1

New member
Doing a one step on a car later this week that the owner is complaining about minor hologramming. Would I be better off going with m205 or d300 on a mf finishing pad? Anyone have any experience with this combo?
 
With a finishing disc... and I am guessing you have both D300 and M205?



Why not try the M205 first and see how it turns out?



If you aren't getting the level of cut you are hoping for, then M205 won't really affect D300 much (if at all).



Keep the speed in the mid-range, move along about 1-2 inches per second.

Make sure your pressure is such that the backing plate can rotate a 2-4 times per second.



Once you've got the defects out, clean the pad and then apply a dot or two of whichever polish you are using.

Drop the buffer speed, make sure the pressure such that the pad can rotate once per second, or less.
 
I don't know from D300 (other than what some people have told me about it), but I can't help but think that either of those products might do enough concealing to make hologram *removal* a bit of a challenge.



I've done it with M205, and it was a job o' work.
 
Accumulator said:
I don't know from D300 (other than what some people have told me about it), but I can't help but think that either of those products might do enough concealing to make hologram *removal* a bit of a challenge.



I've done it with M205, and it was a job o' work.
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WOW....interesting. I have done a fair amount of corrections with 300 and the mf pads, and have experienced no filling (after multiple wipedowns with several liquids...ie, ipa, meg's glass cleaner, and final inspection). 205 can fill, but that largely depends on the polishing technique and paint type. Holigrams are typically pretty shalow, and uniform, and I have found they are typically easy to remove.
 
weekendwarrior said:
.. Holigrams are typically pretty shalow, and uniform, and I have found they are typically easy to remove.
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The holograms on that Yukon I used to have would *NOT* come out with M205, and I was really trying (pads, polishers, pressure, speed, you name it and I tried it). Every time I PrepWashed the M205 oils away (IPA didn't remove them 100%) I could still see the holograms if I went about it right (and I could write a whole book on what it took to see 'em, this wasn't anything obvious).



Yeah, I too always figured that holograms are just soooo shallow, I mean, they're not like "normal scratches" they're just " miniscule scratches from a pad/product combo". But the ones on that Yukon were an incredible chore. The ones my Extra Cut/Wool rotary work left on my e36 M3 were similar, no way M205 would begin to touch 'em.



I've come to think of M205 as a straight-up finishing polish, just one that doesn't *always* finish out to my satisfaction. Eh, as you can probably tell, I'm sorta losing my love for the stuff.



Oh, and hey, good to see you posting :wavey I *still* have some of that really aggressive Sonus gray clay, usually use one bar per "trashed used car purchase" so it might last me forever! That really is some nasty stuff for "detailing clay".
 
weekendwarrior said:
WOW....interesting. I have done a fair amount of corrections with 300 and the mf pads, and have experienced no filling (after multiple wipedowns with several liquids...ie, ipa, meg's glass cleaner, and final inspection). 205 can fill, but that largely depends on the polishing technique and paint type..
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-AND-



Time2Shine said:
I actually meant d301 heh..
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Eh, *I DON'T KNOW WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT HERE*, so bear with me a little bit. D300? D301?? :nixweiss I'm referring to the "finishing"/second part of the MF system, the stuff that's a combo finishing polish and LSP. THAT'S what I'd be leery of with regard to filling.



And the oils from M205 can simply drive me nuts! I've done countless (and I don't mean just six or so) IPA wipedowns, Zep 40 Glass Cleaner, you name it, and *still* had lots of oils come up after doing multiple wipes with PrepWash! It's enough to make me reach for PrepSol or something now and then. Not on all paints mind you, but some "sticky" ones are simply a nightmare to the point where I vow to never use M205 on those again.
 
Time2Shine said:
I actually meant d301 heh..
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Big difference. That's a no-brainer then(AFAIC). Go with M205 as D301 doesn't have all that much cut and won't do you much good at removing halos. Especially on a finishing pad. Keep the pad clean and use the techniques Kevin mentioned and you should be fine (in most cases).
 
SpoolinNoMore said:
I'd follow up 205 with an LSP if I were you, even though its a 1-step job.
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LOL....a 1 step typically refers to 1 polishing step. Sometimes it is an AIO, sometimes a dedicated polish....but yes, typically applying an LSP is an automatic.
 
Ah my mistake, I was thinking of D151 instead of the MF correction polish :doh:. I haven't been too much of a fan of the MF 'system' polish, just couldn't seem to get rid of the swirls I was trying to correct in the first place. The wax that comes with the system is pretty decent for a hybrid sealant/carnauba at least (although its durability seems lacking on a DD I did a month ago or so).
 
SpoolinNoMore said:
I'd follow up 205 with an LSP if I were you, even though its a 1-step job.
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Huh? Why would somebody *not* apply an LSP after M205 :confused: The M205 doesn't leave any protection and once the oils dissipate it won't even look all that swell IMO.
 
Accumulator said:
Huh? Why would somebody *not* apply an LSP after M205 :confused: The M205 doesn't leave any protection and once the oils dissipate it won't even look all that swell IMO.
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I had D151 and D300 mixed up, so I was thinking he meant an AiO route for a 1-step, not just using a single polish before LSP.
 
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