M105 Worse Than I Thought

dan46n2

New member
My first post after receiving M105 and comparing it to Menzerna Power Gloss gave me the impression that they were about equal in cut. I just wetsanded some long scratches that cover the roof of my '94 Vette with 2000 grit, I tried 2 seperate passes with 105 on one side and it looked like it took it off, but after an IPA wipedown there were still sanding marks visible. I tried Power Gloss on the other side and just 1 pass removed all the sanding marks with an IPA wipedown. This was done with a Metabo rotary and LC 8 inch wool pad.
 
What speed were you using? Which version of M105?



It seems like something else is going on here. In my experience, M105 can easily remove 1500 grit marks with a W4000 or Solo Heavy Cut wool pad. The original M105 is the last product in my arsenal to cause filling.



A very strong concentration of IPA can cause the paint to swell and reveal more defects, too.
 
PorscheGuy997 said:
A very strong concentration of IPA can cause the paint to swell and reveal more defects, too.



Paint swelling eh? Alcohol can make "other" things swell though, but not paint.:grinno:



Mostly it's from all the filler removed that shows the defects, not swelling paint.



Just as prior to shooting, a wipe with Prepsol or paint thinners will remove all oils, filling etc so the paint can be applied.



Some polishes just contain more oils and filler from the abrasives left behind that broke down. A wipe can remove all the oils and abrasives, which then shows a light marring. It's the nature of polishes to leave something behind. It could be oil/abrasive mix or a clay filler depending on which polish is used.



Although most general cut polishes are not filling and contain no filling clay, it's just the abrasive size that once they start breaking down from buffing, become much smaller and act in someway as a filler since even wiping it off, you will not wipe out the abrasives that broke down into micro scratches and the wiping action actually increase the abrasive/oil filling capability.



Only when you wipe with a solvent does this remove the oils and abrasives that got trapped in the micro scratches from polishing.



Regards,

Deanski
 
It was the newest version of M105 from Autogeek, I got in a few days ago. The speed was around 1800-2000 rpm.



EDIT: Metabo was right in the middle of setting 3 which is 1500 rpm.
 
That's odd. M205 on a white pad on the pc with moderate pressure took out 2000 grit sanding marks on my car.



Granted my clear probably isn't hard as that vette clear, m105 on wool is as agressive as you should usually have to go.



Ever think of trying it with the pc and kbm method?
 
Deanski said:
Paint swelling eh? Alcohol can make "other" things swell though, but not paint.:grinno:

Mostly it's from all the filler removed that shows the defects, not swelling paint.



Just as prior to shooting, a wipe with Prepsol or paint thinners will remove all oils, filling etc so the paint can be applied.



Some polishes just contain more oils and filler from the abrasives left behind that broke down. A wipe can remove all the oils and abrasives, which then shows a light marring. It's the nature of polishes to leave something behind. It could be oil/abrasive mix or a clay filler depending on which polish is used.



Although most general cut polishes are not filling and contain no filling clay, it's just the abrasive size that once they start breaking down from buffing, become much smaller and act in someway as a filler since even wiping it off, you will not wipe out the abrasives that broke down into micro scratches and the wiping action actually increase the abrasive/oil filling capability.



Only when you wipe with a solvent does this remove the oils and abrasives that got trapped in the micro scratches from polishing.



Regards,

Deanski





Actually I read a post from Jason Rose that said the same thing about using a strong dose of IPA on some paints...





OP, I have been using both versions of M105 and the older version definitely seems to have more cut. I also think it works a little better on the rotary. Using the old version, wool Solo cutting pad, at 1200 rpm's with medium to heavy pressue, I was able to remove wet sanding marks in 1 pass.



Try reducing your rpm's a little (1200-1500) and use a little more pressure. :)
 
NSXTASY said:
Crazy.



One time, Ultrafina worked better than FPII.



I should make a thread.







Well M105 should remove 2000 grit sanding marks no problem, it has a rating of 12, the highest on Meguiars scale... it's kind of ridiculous it's having trouble doing that.
 
RaskyR1 said:
Try reducing your rpm's a little (1200-1500) and use a little more pressure. :)



I just went in the garage and doubled checked my Metabo from last night and it was on setting 3 which shows thats right at 1500 rpm, for some reason I was thinking this was 1800.
 
dan46n2 said:
Well M105 should remove 2000 grit sanding marks no problem, it has a rating of 12, the highest on Meguiars scale... it's kind of ridiculous it's having trouble doing that.



depends on how it was wetsanding (skill level) and the clear. I've had to use 85 on 2000 grit 4 or 5 times on really hard GM clear and 3M sandpaper (plus my noob skills at wetsanding).
 
Deanski said:
Paint swelling eh? Alcohol can make "other" things swell though, but not paint.





Paint really does swell. If it did not, it would easily crack due to the temperature fluctuations during the day. You can also test the swelling with a paint gauge. Buff a section with a cutting pad. In many cases, the paint reading will be thicker than when you started.



I suggest you read some of Jason's posts on swelling.
 
If your looking to get some great correction out of 105, then use a LC orange pad.



You can also use it after wool to refine the surface and bring it to a new level.
 
I wouldn't wetsand a car like that just to remove orange peel. You can spot sand the car to get rid of scratches, or Trizact 3000 the entire car if you want to do a great polish, but sanding factory paint down just to remove orange peel is silly.







John
 
rydawg said:
What brand paper did you use to sand with?



I would stay away from the 3M, it's pretty inconsistent. I use it sometimes, but I'm experienced with wetsanding, if you're doing this for the first time, then you'd be better off using a higher quality paper.







John
 
Didn't care for M105 at first... Need to use lots of it, basically saturating the wool

pad, and work the section at around 1000-1200 rpm. On fresh paint (12 hours),

2000 grit marks can be removed in one pass fairly easy. Doing this now, actually.
 
PorscheGuy997 said:
Paint really does swell. If it did not, it would easily crack due to the temperature fluctuations during the day. You can also test the swelling with a paint gauge. Buff a section with a cutting pad. In many cases, the paint reading will be thicker than when you started.



I suggest you read some of Jason's posts on swelling.



The only way paint can really swell with alcohol is "IF" there is an embedded silicon layer (example: Simonize, certain silicon based qd's) trapped within the clear that will not come out.



Other than that, I will gaurantee that alcohol will not harm paint.



I have done numerous extensive corrections on a few delicate paints that were in serious need of lots of extensive polishing (60 plus hours) and all of them, I have used lots of alcohol in between every step and stage, ensuring 100% correction and perfection to my standards.



On some cars I have used anywhere from 20-40 oz. of alcohol and after seeing the cars years later and noticing that the paint is still in the same condition as the last time I had finished my intensive work to it.



So, I know from LOTS of experience that alcohol will not have any adverse reaction with clean and clear paint. If it does, then there is something on/in the paint causing it to outgas upon alcohol wipedown and making it swell.



But, keep in mind, how many vehicles out there have been siliconed to death by hack shops and car dealers..... That's where the problem lies.



I have used alcohol on 105 and have NOT had any problems.:D
 
"But, keep in mind, how many vehicles out there have been siliconed to death by hack shops and car dealers..... That's where the problem lies."



I swear some of the dealer auction cars I've done lately have been wiped down with a solvent dressing or something so evil, even god himself shakes his head.
 
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