M105 Removes Swirls from Denali (Pics)

Accumulator said:
Oh yeah...right up there with my Audis. I tried to do the tight spots in the jamb of the rear hatch by hand (with M105 and pieces of orange pads), and I gotta admit I simply gave up after an hour or so :o



After I got to the "residual RIDS" point, I spent *forever* on those, contantly tempted to just wetsand them but the clear's too thin for that.





Heh heh, I was sure thinking that myself on mine :D You can't imagine how long I spent on it.



Yes, I CAN imagine! What a nightmare that hard clear coat is!
 
gmblack3a said:
Great work Rob!



A few options you may consider for the heavy correction you have coming up:



1. Rotary with wool pad/M105. Difference is priming the wool pad with M105 and using low speeds. I have not used this method, but Billy has here.



2. Surbuf pads with a PC/M105. I have not picked up a rotary since the start of this year (except to spin dry pads) for any of the corrections that I have done.



Kevin has posted most of his info on these methods here.



Thanks for the info.



I was at my friends house last night and saw the car that I will be working on. I'm going to have to completely re-think how I am going to approach this job.



The car (1966 Chevy II Nova) has a 30 paint job on it, and the paint is straight lacquer.



There is so much crap in the paint that we have already made the decision to wet sand the car. We will probably start with 1200 grit paper.



The thing is, this lacquer paint is easy to remove. I don't think that I will need to get very aggressive in terms of compounding after wet sanding.



I'll probably take some pictures and post them in a new thread, asking for suggestions on how to approach this job. The car needs a re-paint, but this is to hold my friend over until he has the money for a new paint job.
 
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