m105 removal hints?

D

db2

New member
what way is better to clean wheels?

1. fill a 32 ounce spray bottle with car wash soap and water and spray them and wipe them down?

or

2.have a bucket full of the same sollution and wipe them down?
 
Clean them first with a separate mitt and/or burshes



I actually first clean the tires with a tire cleaner then hose etc then I go back and cleanall the wheels...



I have a wide variety of brushes and mitted gadget thingys to get in them tight spots..
 
Either way sounds fine. Car shampoo is mild and very safe. You don't mention rinsing. I assume you pre-rinse and flush out afterwards with clean water. Don't let any cleaners sit on the wheels too long.



I use a sponge for the outside and a foam-ended bottle brush for the insides. My Audi puts out so much dust I have to clean the wheels twice a week. I have it down to about 2 minutes a wheel, tops.
 
2 mins dayum...



It takes me like 10 -15 minutes a wheel on my truck including the tires. Takes me longer to do all 4 tires and wheels than the rest of the truck. I despise cleaning them too Knuckle busters!
 
Does anyone have any tips on removing m105? I've done 2 cars now using it and it is a bear to get off. I try it in small sections then remove right away while still wet-ish. I know it's a serious product and is rather thick and supposed to be difficult but man, my arms are killing me. Any help would be very much appreciated.
 
Prime the pad very well, and wipe off excess with MF. Then add three dime size dots of polish. Spread over a small area of about 2 x 2 and work till you achieve desired results. I had the same problem. You just have to decrease the size of the area you are working on.

You can also try misting either water or M34 while polishing.
 
Are you working it long enough? I have found it very easy to remove. I use it with a rotary and usually a wool pad or an orange LCC one.

Edit: The only time I had a problem was on an Infiniti with that stupid soft clear.
 
I use an ONR mix to remove 105 after a section, if it's "sticky". Then I dry off the section to see my results. Helps in removing 105 power left behind too. 105 is great, but can be a bear to work with, at times.
 
I was doing about a 3'x3' area with a LC purple wool pad or a cyan, maybe it's the cyan? I've been following tips from Eric at Tru Shine, maybe I should try more misting. I'll see next week how that goes. Thanks everyone for the advice.
 

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I always work it until it almost disappears. I know it doesn't diminish but it still clears up a lot. When I first started using it. I had the drying problems, but once you learn the learning curve its the greatest thing. it finished so good and cuts so well
 
honda2112 said:
I was doing about a 3'x3' area with a LC purple wool pad or a cyan, maybe it's the cyan? I've been following tips from Eric at Tru Shine, maybe I should try more misting. I'll see next week how that goes. Thanks everyone for the advice.
Click to expand...


3x3 might be ok, but any bigger and it will dry up on you. I am not a big fan of "Misting" especially with ONR. When you are correcting paint. you dont want any "protection" on it and ONR does add protection. and the water will cause it to be hazey when finished. I just prime the pad very well (KBM) and then work a nice 2x2 and work it until is disappears. then the next section only needs about 3 to 4 small dots of product.

I posted a Video where I did a 50/50 B&A on the trunk of that 06 viper. you can watch it and see how long I work an area.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3SZWoQVJOxk
 
Thanks man, that vid really gave me a better perspective. You worked it like twice as long as I had on the wifes car, with good pressure too I see. I see my error now. Thanks again.
 
3' x 3' is a pretty big area IMO unless you are on a rotary. I'd say reduce your work area to 12" x 12" once just to see how that works for you. If all is well, increase to a size that is larger but not so large that it starts to give you any problems.
 
Tru_Shine said:
I always work it until it almost disappears. I know it doesn't diminish but it still clears up a lot. When I first started using it. I had the drying problems, but once you learn the learning curve its the greatest thing. it finished so good and cuts so well
Click to expand...

This was my experience also.
 
I actually just thought of the speed used for the m105, Meg's says 1500 rpm but I think my PC starts at 2500 rpm. Is this too much or should I step it up as I go with a section?
 
I only use water when using M105 with the surbuf pads. Using water or anything else with foam and M105 can cause clumping of the product, which will lead to micro marring.

Surbuf/water/M105 can cause the M105 to be difficult to remove, I then use straight IPA to remove M105. This also helps to insure that no filling is taking place on different paint/clears.

Chad is correct about starting with smaller areas. Also don't forget to clean your pads often. Brush and then blow compressed air across the pad to keep it fresh.
 
Thanks Rasky and gmblack. I'm shocked that speed 6 is OK although I kinda thought it would be on the Accord I did, I just didn't want to push it. I've got a black '06 Carolla to do this week, I'll step it up. Oh, and I use a hard bristle toothbrush (ghetto/cheap, I know) Is there something better to use?
 
I also use a toothbrush to clean my pads and do it about every second panel to keep it fairly clean. Works for me. After about 1/3 of the car I change to a fresh pad.
 
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