M100 v. M101

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LilJayV10

New member
I did a search and didn't find anything. I was on AG the other night and saw Meg's has released M100. I have not heard anything about it but have heard a lot about M101.



Thanks in advance.



Jason
 
I wonder why they released M101 and M100 at the same time if their performance is so close. I asked a friend of mine in the business about the differences and he said he couldn't tell me.
 
LilJayV10 said:
I wonder why they released M101 and M100 at the same time if their performance is so close. I asked a friend of mine in the business about the differences and he said he couldn't tell me.
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From what I gathered reading at MOL, the release of the 2 this close was not planned. M101 was never meant for the US market. They were developing M100 for mid-tier body shops in the US. M101 was released due to pressure from people who were importing it from Europe on their own. It seems they were both developed for specific body shop purposes and detailers just happened to try them with a DA and found they work quite well.
 
Matt Cardoni said:
.... It seems they were both developed for specific body shop purposes ....
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Exactly.



Each was tailored to the techniques, machines/speeds and pads commonly used in its target market.



That they're very flexible and work well in other applications is icing on the cake for Meg's.





pc
 
As one might guess from the name, Meguiar's M101 Foam Cut Compound was designed for foam pads.



Compared to the US, body shops in western Europe (Switzerland, Germany, etc.) tend to use foam, hardly ever wool, run their rotaries at lower speeds and work smaller areas with smaller pads.



M100 was targeted at US Shops, who tend toward larger pads, higher speeds, larger work areas and almost always use wool pads.



Which is not to say that they won't work very well when used differently, only that they were optimized for those situations.







pc
 
Picked up some M100. Used it this weekend on the Rupes LHR21ES with Meg's MF cutting pads. Amazing is the only word I have for this combo. The cut is unbelievable and it finished down great. Given I was using it on a really hard clear coat but IMO that's the only time you would need something that aggressive.
 
LilJayV10 said:
Picked up some M100. Used it this weekend on the Rupes LHR21ES with Meg's MF cutting pads. Amazing is the only word I have for this combo. The cut is unbelievable and it finished down great. Given I was using it on a really hard clear coat but IMO that's the only time you would need something that aggressive.
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I got to play with the same combo as you did. It took out a really deep RID on really hard paint. Very little dusting. I will be buying some M100 along with some a few mf pads. I don't need this combo for my car, but I will have it ready in case one of my friends need help with major correction on hard paint.
 
Michael Stoops said:
This is the first product that Meguiar's actually developed outside the US. It was still created by our chemists here in Irvine, CA, but we actually shipped our lead man for the project to Europe, along with a mini lab set up, so that he could quickly respond to testing and inputs and tweak the formula as needed. Pretty cool stuff, actually.



* What is M101 designed for? Rotary buffing with a dedicated foam pad on European aftermarket (ie, body shop) paint.



* Why "European" aftermarket paint? Because, unlike factory paint which is the same whether the car is sold in Europe, North America or Asia, aftermarket paints vary in different parts of the world. It's a high solids versus low solids situation with these different paints, and that can require different compound formulations to achieve maximum results. Oh, and for the record, factory paint is vastly different from a chemistry standpoint than the paint used in a body shop. If a body shop, whether in Europe or North America, were to shoot factory paint it would virtually never cure due to a body shops inability to bake it at sufficient heat and for sufficient time. It's just not economically feasible for a body shop to have that sort of equipment.



* Why "dedicated foam pad"? While use of a wool pad is commonplace here in the US for sanding mark and swirl removal, in European body shops they almost never use wool. And rarely do they compound the entire vehicle - it's mostly spot repair following a repaint, and it's almost always with a foam pad. They also tend to run the rotary at fairly low rpm. So we've developed a dedicated foam pad to use with this compound, taking into account the cultural toward low speed rotary and anti wool bias.



* Why did we send a chemist and mini lab to Europe? Lead time, really. Imagine if we sent product over there, had it tested, then had to tweak and send a new batch across the pond, repeat, repeat, repeat? It would have taken months. And we couldn't do the testing here because the aftermarket paint used in Europe is very different from that used here, due to environment regulations.



So basically what we have here is a product developed for a very specific type of paint system and a pretty specific work flow. That a handful of guys have imported this back to the US (it is made domestically, just like all the rest of our products) and are finding success with it using either wool or microfiber pads is interesting, to say the least. At the moment we have no solid plans to introduce this product to the US market.
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Here are my personal findings using M100 with a DA vs. M101 with a DA



Megs M100, Bug sponge and Surbuf pad.

M100-2.jpg




Megs M100, Bug Sponge and Megs 5" MF cutting disc primed and ready.

M100-3.jpg




Finished work: Megs M101, DA and Lake Country 5.5" flat pad (sorry 'bout the pic clouds rolled in)

M100-4.jpg


I had to use M101 (with a DA) after the M100 testing to get the vehicle corrected to a swirl free finish.



Final Conclusion: M101 wins "Hand Down" against M100 when using it with a DA.



I tried M205 with LC 5.5" white pads after M101 and could not tell any difference.

Does M101 cost more? Yes, it does but for me it's a one product, one step finish.

Much cleaner, less time & only one product! In the end it's a wash as far as cost.



NOTE:

I used Rotary/wool with M100 & I prefer the use, cut, cleanliness & finish of M101.
 
Guys I'm so excited about about the Rupes, M100 and MF pad combo I wanted to share a few pics from the SUV I am correcting this week. Black 06' Denali. Clear coat is HARD. PC, MF and M105 wouldn't touch it. Two passes with the combo mentioned prior and you get near LSP results. This stuff cuts so fast and finishes down excellent. The pics look good but you should see it after a LC white pad and M205.



This combo is pretty aggressive and probably shouldn't be tried by someone just starting out. IMO these are rotary type results with a D/A. I also think even with a D/A polisher this combo could have you seeing primer if you aren't careful. Notice the tape across the character line above the fender. Respect the M100! Tape is cheap. Paint is not.



The halogen light is in the same place in the photo, same spot on the door. Notice the ladder and light stand is in the same spot. This is about as good as it gets for before/after pics. I wiped it down with Eraser to ensure there was no filling of any scratches.

leftquartbefore_zpsa26387e6.jpg


leftquartafter_zps69721b93.jpg
 
M100 and the Rupes seem to be a great combination. I'm a fan of both M100 and M101 but people need to remember to use the least aggressive product possible . I see a lot of guys going straight to M101 when something like M100 or less will do the job. Nice to hear the follow up with M205 and a white pad amped up the gloss. So many are leaving a little on the table as they say by stopping after a heavy compound and going straight to a LSP. Some younger guys reading this may not take into consideration the different paint hardness that they may encounter. I find your process of cutting with a mf and finishing with a foam to be used more and more by most and a favorite of mine also. Thanks for sharing.
 
Paul Sparks said:
M100 and the Rupes seem to be a great combination. I'm a fan of both M100 and M101 but people need to remember to use the least aggressive product possible . I see a lot of guys going straight to M101 when something like M100 or less will do the job. Nice to hear the follow up with M205 and a white pad amped up the gloss. So many are leaving a little on the table as they say by stopping after a heavy compound and going straight to a LSP. Some younger guys reading this may not take into consideration the different paint hardness that they may encounter. I find your process of cutting with a mf and finishing with a foam to be used more and more by most and a favorite of mine also. Thanks for sharing.
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I agree completely. I think most, well some, are so impressed by how much better the panel looks after the compound they don't go any further. For examply a friend of mine was watching me compound his Camaro, given the paint was hard he was super impressed how it looked after 105. He said 90% of people would think that would be good enough. I said in my best tv infomercial voice, "But wait! I'm not done yet!"



After talking at length with Kevin Brown over the last two weeks I have changed a few things and my results have improved greatly. It's amazing just changing a few small things yield great results.
 
LilJayV10 said:
After talking at length with Kevin Brown over the last two weeks I have changed a few things and my results have improved greatly. It's amazing just changing a few small things yield great results.
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It's that type of customer service and passion that sets Kevin apart from EVERY online seller! He's not just in it to make a buck. He's truly into perfecting paint and is happy to share his knowledge with the masses. This is the reason he has such a strong following and is referred as often as we can because he's the real deal! His image was not created by marketing hype and over processed pictures but by thorough explanations of his theories and sacrificing many, many hours sharing freely with some of the country's best detailers, those just starting out and everyone in between.



I can't imagine there's a person out there that uses a DA, that hasn't been influenced by Kevin Brown aka BuffDaddy.com! You may have not had contact with him personally, but if you learned on one of the many forums or experts out there how to use a DA with any efficiency while getting quality results, you've been exposed to Kevin's teachings. No matter the forum, or the experts on them, we all owe Kevin a big thank you for all he's contributed.
 
mikemurphy234 said:




It's that type of customer service and passion that sets Kevin apart from EVERY online seller! He's not just in it to make a buck. He's truly into perfecting paint and is happy to share his knowledge with the masses. This is the reason he has such a strong following and is referred as often as we can because he's the real deal! His image was not created by marketing hype and over processed pictures but by thorough explanations of his theories and sacrificing many, many hours sharing freely with some of the country's best detailers, those just starting out and everyone in between.



I can't imagine there's a person out there that uses a DA, that hasn't been influenced by Kevin Brown aka BuffDaddy.com! You may have not had contact with him personally, but if you learned on one of the many forums or experts out there how to use a DA with any efficiency while getting quality results, you've been exposed to Kevin's teachings. No matter the forum, or the experts on them, we all owe Kevin a big thank you for all he's contributed.
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^^^^^This! :2thumbs:
 
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