LSP Winter Faceoff

4u2nvinmtl

4u2nvinmtl

New member
The long awaited much anticipated, LSP Winter Faceoff!

Intro:
For those of you that missed it, I started this idea in a separate thread called “LSP face-off - Questions” the idea was to see what products perform best over the winter without the need to reapply, in short a durability test. I used this threat to address any and all the questions, products, processes, and panels well before starting the Faceoff. Just to quickly summarize, I committed to following up all winter long until spring, comparing two products on matching panels on each side of my 2009 Jeep SRT8 and each product will have the same prep and two layers of application with matching application times (applied the same day) and cure times between second application (full 24 hours before applying a second coat). I also polished each of the panels very well using Menzerna Super Finish 4000 with an Orange Polishing HD Orbital Foam Pad on my Griot’s Garage BOSS G21 Long Throw Orbital Polisher. I did four (4) high-speed crosshatch passes and three (3) low-speed crosshatch passes. I then cleaned the paint by doing three CarPro Eraser wipe downs per panel.

LSP application process:
On the driver’s side front fender, I applied Klasse All In One by hand with a microfiber applicator doing 3 crosshatch passes to ensure coverage and then I topped it with the first layer of Klasse Sealant Glaze, again by hand using a foam applicator doing two crosshatch passes to ensure coverage. Then I waited a full 24 hours and did a waterless wash using Ultima Waterless Wash Plus+ and then applied a second layer of Klasse Sealant Glaze, with another foam applicator.

On the passenger’s side front fender, I applied the first layer of Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Paste Wax by hand using a foam applicator doing two crosshatch passes to ensure coverage. Then I waited a full 24 hours and did a waterless wash using Ultima Waterless Wash Plus+ and then applied a second layer of Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Paste Wax with another foam applicator.

On the driver’s side rear door above the silver trim, I applied the first layer of Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Paste Wax by hand using a foam applicator doing two crosshatch passes to ensure coverage. Then I waited a full 24 hours and did a waterless wash using Ultima Waterless Wash Plus+ and then applied a second layer of Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Paste Wax with another foam applicator.

On the passenger’s rear door above the silver trim, I applied the first layer of Klasse Sealant Glaze (without Klasse All In One) by hand using a foam applicator doing two crosshatch passes to ensure coverage. Then I waited a full 24 hours and did a waterless wash using Ultima Waterless Wash Plus+ and then applied a second layer of Klasse Sealant Glaze with another foam applicator.

On the driver’s side rear fender below the D-pillar, I applied the first layer of Duragloss Polish Bonding Agent #601 mixed with Duragloss Total Performance Polish #105 (1:4 ratio) by hand using a foam applicator doing two crosshatch passes to ensure coverage. Then I waited a full 24 hours and did a waterless wash using Ultima Waterless Wash Plus+ and then applied a second layer of Duragloss Polish Bonding Agent #601 mixed with Duragloss Total Performance Polish #105 (1:4 ratio) with another foam applicator.

On the passenger’s rear fender below the D-pillar, I applied the first layer of Collinite Super DoubleCoat Auto Wax #476S by hand using a foam applicator doing two crosshatch passes to ensure coverage. Then I waited a full 24 hours and did a waterless wash using Ultima Waterless Wash Plus+ and then applied a second layer of Collinite Super DoubleCoat Auto Wax #476S with another foam applicator.

Notes:
  • The application was not harder or easier for any of the LSPs IMHO.
  • The Klasse AIO topped with Klasse SG took slightly longer because of the two steps.
  • They were all just about the same when it came to removal.
  • Some LSPs did feel slicker to the touch, if I had to rate the feel it would go like this (FK>DG>476>KSG).
  • I’m also comparing the durability of the Wolfgang Uber Ceramic Coating for my own personal interest.
  • I actually liked the smell of the Durragloss products when mixed together reminded me of something from my early childhood (still can’t put my finger on it)
  • I didn’t bother to take any pictures of me polishing the car as I was both pressed for time and the lighting was too poor for photos.

LSP table:
  • KAIO + 2x KSG VS 2x FK1000P (drivers front fender vs passengers front fender, respectively)
  • 2x KSG VC 2x FK1000p (drivers rear door VS passengers rear door, respectively)
  • DG601 + 2x DG105 VS 2x 476S (drivers rear fender vs passengers rear fender, respectively)
 
Winter mode, with winter wheels/tires and a chopped front winterized bumper:




Front end and hood pictures:








360:










Reflection comparison of front passenger’s door to rear passenger’s door (both FK1000p, front door not polished as recently):




Reflection comparison of hood to passenger’s front fender (Uber coating on hood and FK1000p on fender, both recently polished):




Reflection comparison of hood to driver’s front fender (Uber coating on hood and KAIO+KSG on the fender, both recently polished):




Reflection comparison of driver’s rear door to driver’s rear fender (FK1000p on the rear door and DOG601+DG105 on the rear fender, both recently polished):



I'll be taking videos of the beading and sheeting durring my first maintenance wash (still to come). I'll be sure to post them up in my next update.
 
First rainfall four days after the 2nd layer of the LSP's were applied...

Passengers rear fender 476s (rain and then air dried only by driving):











Passengers rear door FK1000p (rain and then air dried only by driving):





Passengers front fender FK1000p (rain and then air dried only by driving):







Drivers rear fender DG601&105 (rain and then air dried only by driving):






Drivers front fender KAIO&KSG (rain and then air dried only by driving):









Drivers rear door KSG (rain):









Hood Uber coating (rain and then air dried only by driving):






 
It's still too early to discern if there's any LSP degradation, but it's clear that the coating on the hood doesn't bead as tightly as the other LSP. At first it did but after each rainfall less and less so. The beading properties do return to the coating once washed/cleaned so it leads to me conclude it doesn't self-clean as well as the other LSP's. It's also the least slick to the touch of them all (even just after a wash)... As the coating was applied a few weeks before and there's only one layer I'll be applying another layer for a more accurate comparison.

Note: I've rented a winter car tent (AKA Tempo) to provide some protection. This will obviously reduce the LSP exposure to the elements...
 
I would imagine the 476S will do fine as I applied it to the Wifes Van in April and it is still there, it is outside 24/7. The 476 has gone through the AZ. summer with temps up to 117. The plan is to re-do again by April if not sooner. I had no luck with KSG and DG should be fine up to 9 Months. It will be interesting how yours comes out. There is debate about beading not being a true indicator of protection but I do not really know the alternative with out looking for other indicators such as spotting, oxidation etc.. Most do not want to go that far and re-do when beading diminishes.

Dave
 
davidc said:
I would imagine the 476S will do fine as I applied it to the Wifes Van in April and it is still there, it is outside 24/7. The 476 has gone through the AZ. summer with temps up to 117. The plan is to re-do again by April if not sooner. I had no luck with KSG and DG should be fine up to 9 Months. It will be interesting how yours comes out. There is debate about beading not being a true indicator of protection but I do not really know the alternative with out looking for other indicators such as spotting, oxidation etc.. Most do not want to go that far and re-do when beading diminishes.

Dave
Click to expand...

I think that's going to be the trickiest part (figuring out when the LSP has worn off). I know UWW+ adds something to the surface so I won't be using it until my test is over. I plan to wash only using Meg's Hyper Wash (I don't think it has any LSP in it), so if the paint doesn't bead or sheet water once cleaned I think it's safe to assume the LSP is toast. I had almost assumed the coating was gone considering how poorly it sheets and beads water when it's dirty but after a cleaning it beads and sheets water like new again (kind of shocking, actually).
 
There has been a lot of posts lately concerning whether lack of beading means lack of protection or whether beading is a good or bad thing. With all the controversy I'm no longer sure when a lsp needs to be renewed. Coatings really throw a wrench into the works with renewed beading after washing. With waxes I just assume it is time to reapply when the shine fades. I appreciate all the time and effort going into this test.
 
Subscribed for updates.
Thanks for posting!
I just finished my second winter prep today. My black Lacrosse has DG 105/601, topped with FK1000p. The wife's red Cruze has DG501/601 topped with Collinite 476. Both are parked outside 24/7 in PA, so we'll see how it goes. The DG/Colli combo has never failed me, but this is my first time with FK1000 on the paint. It's so damn durable as a wheel sealant that i decided to give it a try on the body.

Bill
 
Cool test.

Don't take this the wrong way, but it's sorta a non event. They are all bullet proof for the most part.
 
Billy Jack said:
Subscribed for updates.
Thanks for posting!
I just finished my second winter prep today. My black Lacrosse has DG 105/601, topped with FK1000p. The wife's red Cruze has DG501/601 topped with Collinite 476. Both are parked outside 24/7 in PA, so we'll see how it goes. The DG/Colli combo has never failed me, but this is my first time with FK1000 on the paint. It's so damn durable as a wheel sealant that i decided to give it a try on the body.

Bill
Click to expand...
Did the wifes car with FK 1000 will see how it works on this side of the burgh with Shipping-Port across the river :)
 
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