Lot of product but still can't acheive desired results

R

Rover06

New member
Hello,



After hours of polishing (da PC), buying more product (Menrenza IP,FPII,..), re-watching how-to-videos, getting advice from forum members I still have halograms/micro marring/ maybe the orginal scrathes in black Rover. The Rover looks fine except when the sun directly hits the panels, then it looks like sh?t. Those long thin lines (buffer trails,3D)



I'm trying to find an expert on this forum who could show me the proper technique. I will pay for their time. Once I learn how to properly remove my paint issues I can continue to buy product and keep my Rover polished.





I live in Northern Califoria area(San Francisco, Oakland, Sacramento)
 
What pads are you using? Remember you need finishing pads for your final polish. Also make sure you're using decent cloths for wiping, good soft mf's.



One more thing, don't use lots of product, less is more, especially when you need to break down the polish so you won't leave those trails and holograms.
 
Try not to use the yellow pad too often. I find that the orange has the same cut and finishes down better for me so all my yellow pads are somewhere in my house not lol, not in my collection anymore :)
 
I live in the Bay Area, although it's probably sufficient to explain in detail what your steps / products used / exact techniques are. For example, I'm assuming you clayed, then used x-size pad with x-amount of x-product at x-speed on the PC with x-amount of pressure, covering x-amount of area at a time, etc..



Provide values for x and we can go from there.
 
TH0001 might be correct. Maybe I'm doing everything right but I'm not knowledgable enough to realize I'm at the limit with the PC. Maybe I'm following all the expert advice correctly or maybe I'm not. All I know is I'm not happy with the Rover. I've seen hundreds of click/brag threads where the forum members acheive excellent results. If i can team up with one of these forum experts, it would be a win for me. I'm will be glad to pay for the expertise/time.



They might determine the following:

1.) I just don't have the proper technique required for the Rover and they could show me how to properly do it. If this case is true then I would be a happy camper and finish the rest of the Rover. (Use all the product I bought including the polisher and then buy more.)



or



2) They might find out my technique is flawless and got the Rover in the best condition I'm going to get it in using a da polihser. If this case is true then I would need to find/pay a professional with a rotary polisher.



This is what I always hear. If you can't feel the scratch then you can buff it out with a da polisher, however it will take 3 times longer than a rotary polisher. Now buy more product and happy polishing....





I'm not happy..........
 
Reply to docrice.



Clayed car. LC Orange pad with Menrenza IP, dime size 16x16, 1 horizontal pass, 1 vertical, 1 lft diagonal, 1 rght diagonal, 1 more horizontal, 1 more vertical, 2 more horizontal (about 3-4 minutes) Very slow , 20 lbs of presure.



Repeated the above procedure using LC white pad with Menrena FPII.



This year I never moved passed original panel. also tried LC orange pad with Poorboys ssr 2.5 and OC
 
reply to THOOO1.



I was looking back through my old post titled 'Can all those pesty scratches be removed from black cars'. You responded with pics of a black Rover, I'm assuming you did. It was flawless. You quoted this



The problem is the white pad. As I stated earlier (previous post) the osiclatting action of the DA combined with the pad and EXTREMELY soft paint has left micromarring in your paints delicate finish. Try finising using an LC Gray or Meguiars 9006 finishing pad as see if that improves the micromarring.



Maybe this weekend I can give it one final last attempt, I will try to finish with lc gray pad/fpII.



I still want to find an expert incase my final attempt does not work this Saturday.
 
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