Looking for a tool that could replace masking tape in certain cases?

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dfoxengr

New member
I had a thought and was wondering if any of you know of such a tool.



It would be like a thin, flexible plastic sheet, possibly with rubber edges. You could hold it in one hand and your polisher in the other to get up close to trim, emblems, door gaps...



It would just be a way to avoid masking small areas.



Anyone seen such a thing?
 
When there's a panel gap to work with, I use thin sheets of cardboard, like the ones that dress shirts come folded over and the ones that come with my wife's hosery.
 
....something like a paint shield you might use for painting around trim/edges in your home? I know I have a couple of all-plastic ones that are rather flexible. ….and a larger shield with a metal edge but that would be asking for trouble unless you were able to somehow wrap the blade with something that wouldn’t scratch (or be much less likely to). Another thought that comes to mind are some types of squeegees. My only problem would be holding this tool while trying to wield the polisher in the other (may not be so easy in some cases). However, for applying dressings and similar products to trim (in the rare cases I do), something well designed like this might be kinda handy.
 
I would be interested in a product like that... automotive tape can be annoying to use at times. Kind of like a rubber edging that you can put in, then pull out?
 
Kean said:
.... My only problem would be holding this tool while trying to wield the polisher in the other (may not be so easy in some cases)..
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Eh, a few sessions using a polisher one-handed and you'll think it's easy (well, unless you're using a Dyanbrade or somesuch!). I just hold the "barrier" in one hand and the polisher in the other and work limited areas at a time with the "!just don't botch this up!" mindset.



Sometimes I can wedge it under/into something so it'll stay in place without my holding it, but I'd rather have it in-hand if only for my peace of mind.



And yeah, I like using something that's soft enough to not cause (at least serious) damage if something goes haywire, not that I can recall that ever happening :think:
 
Accumulator said:
Eh, a few sessions using a polisher one-handed and you'll think it's easy (well, unless you're using a Dyanbrade or somesuch!). I just hold the "barrier" in one hand and the polisher in the other and work limited areas at a time with the "!just don't botch this up!" mindset.



Sometimes I can wedge it under/into something so it'll stay in place without my holding it, but I'd rather have it in-hand if only for my peace of mind.



And yeah, I like using something that's soft enough to not cause (at least serious) damage if something goes haywire, not that I can recall that ever happening :think:
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Call me a girlie-man but I find I can only hold my Flex with one hand (with complete control) in certain circumstances and usually just on larger sections. When I cut in closer to trim or other border areas I'm trying to avoid, I'll use both hands. .....my PC is a different story (no problem one-handing that one). Maybe I just haven't found the right position(s) to hold my Flex or just haven't used it enough to get that comfortable with it.
 
Kean said:
Call me a girlie-man but I find I can only hold my Flex with one hand (with complete control) in certain circumstances and usually just on larger sections..
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Hey, I'm glad you bumped this with a mention of the Flex3401! I thought of this thread and that machine a few days after I'd posted that and realized it was a pretty significant exception. But then the moment passed and I never revisited this thread.



Nothing girlie at all about not using *THAT* machine one-handed, it'll walk all over the place if you don't have two hands on it (and rather firmly at that). It didn't occur to me as I don't use mine all that often.



I'm just *SO* into my little 3" pneumatic RO these days that the big ol' Flex 3401 never entered my mind :o If I'm doing serious enough correction that I'll be using the Flex 3401, I'll probably be taping anyhow, I just don't do that kind of thing much any more.
 
My subscription updates (to threads I participate in) are very inconsistent. I get emails for some but not always. .....which is why it took me a few days myself to respond.



Glad you find the same to be true with your 3401. I was beginning to think I should start doing some strength exercises or something.
 
I made myself something similar to what I had in mind out of some .080" lexan. It needs some work but is definitely useful and holding a PC with one hand is no problem. It would probably be an issue with a bigger machine as others said. I'll continue refining and get back.
 
Kean said:
My subscription updates (to threads I participate in) are very inconsistent. I get emails for some but not always. .....which is why it took me a few days myself to respond..
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I just click on "new posts" every day, but that's kinda inconsistent too so sometimes I fail to update certain threads :o



Yeah, the Flex 3401 is just....different. But just to show ya how opinions on it differ, on one of my Ford Panther platform Forums some member was warning people that the Flex 3401 was sooo aggressive it'll cut the paint off corners/etc. and pretty much oughta be avoided. Eh, IMO it's nice on Ford clear, not too much at all...
 
Accumulator said:
Yeah, the Flex 3401 is just....different. But just to show ya how opinions on it differ, on one of my Ford Panther platform Forums some member was warning people that the Flex 3401 was sooo aggressive it'll cut the paint off corners/etc. and pretty much oughta be avoided. Eh, IMO it's nice on Ford clear, not too much at all...
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Sounds like a similar post I was reading on another forum today from the relatively popular “Junk guy”. The sad part about this is that a lot of folks consider this individual an expert on the subject and look to him as their sole source of advice (which most of us know is typically limited to one product line and the spreading of misinformation about all else).



If I’ve learned anything over the years it’s that experiences will vary and what may work for one individual/scenario may not work for the next. Advice and personal experience is fine but I’m a firm believer in folks doing their own research as well. ….why would someone willingly limit themselves?



/end rant
 
Accumulator said:
Hey, I'm glad you bumped this with a mention of the Flex3401! I thought of this thread and that machine a few days after I'd posted that and realized it was a pretty significant exception. But then the moment passed and I never revisited this thread.



Nothing girlie at all about not using *THAT* machine one-handed, it'll walk all over the place if you don't have two hands on it (and rather firmly at that). It didn't occur to me as I don't use mine all that often.



I'm just *SO* into my little 3" pneumatic RO these days that the big ol' Flex 3401 never entered my mind :o If I'm doing serious enough correction that I'll be using the Flex 3401, I'll probably be taping anyhow, I just don't do that kind of thing much any more.
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Have to say Accumulator, the Griots 3" pneumatic is very good and easily controlled with one hand. For the lower rocker panels and the parts of the body work that wrap "under", think this is the right tool. Very happy that I bought it - thanks to your recommendation. (and i totally agree, a funky trigger mechanism)
 
addysdaddy and I have been discussing that Griot's 3" pneumatic RO... it seems to work a bit better, or at least more aggressively, for me than it does for him, but as you can see he's happy with it too. Sure is a step up from their *electric* 3" RO, at least IME.
 
Accumulator said:
addysdaddy and I have been discussing that Griot's 3" pneumatic RO... it seems to work a bit better, or at least more aggressively, for me than it does for him, but as you can see he's happy with it too. Sure is a step up from their *electric* 3" RO, at least IME.
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....interesting. Does the 3" pneumatic really provide that much more precision and confidence in those tight, hard to polish areas? Currently, I typically resort to using my old v1 PC with 4" pads in these scenarios (vs. my 3401) or even just do some small parts by hand. I always have a hard time with the top sides of the painted bumper covers on my vehicles.
 
I've found you're able to control the unit quite easily in those tight spaces - the only real negative that I've encountered is my compressor constantly runs while using the tool. (Husky 26 gallon 6.5 CFM unit) So you have to deal with the compressor noise which is a bit of a downside. Didn't think that would happen with my compressor, but....is what it is.
 
....yeah. My 33 Gal Craftsman vertical compressor is rated @ about 6.5 @ 40 PSI and a little over 5 @ 90 PSI. Works fine for my impacts and air ratchets (even my airbrush) but not other tools that require sustained air (i.e. sprayers, sanders, etc.). I would imagine it would be continually running as well.
 
kean- While my usual solution for tight spots is to use the edge/overhanging outer portion of a *large* pad, I'm using the 3" GG PneumaticRandomOrbital (?"PRO"? :chuckle: ) for places where the handle/cord don't get in the way and it's working well. It has a small head compared to the PC/etc. and fits in more tight spots.



I had to do a fender on the '93 V8 the other day (grrr...) and while I did think "pretty big panel for this thing" it worked great (Meguiar's MF Cutting/M105 for the worst spots, then GG orange polishing/Uno, finally GG orange polishing/1ZHG).
 
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