Look mom, no handles! - Thanks RAG

I was thinking about two variables that affect correction, speed of the buffer moving across the surface and the pressure you put on the buffer against the paint. Since I started using this method - light presure to spread and 15 pounds or so to work it - followed by light pressure to finish AND I slowed down my speed, the rotary is working much better for me. A tip I got from David Fermini - "use a specific polish & pad till you learn how it will work, then change the other variables to see what affect they have" So maybe before I go on social security I'll figure it all out, but I'm keeping my polishes down to Menzerna and a couple 3M, pads are mostly LC, that should help!
 
Silva - you ever use those cool looking mechanix gloves that the guys on Spike TV's Powerblock use? I'm thinking about some, but my wish list is back burner till I get some Christmas paid off!
 
Very often I do not use any pressure and honestly anything beyond 1800 rpm with a rotary could do some damage to the strength of the clear coat



You'd think that with wool, a slower rpm would be better due to their more cutting power
 
JuneBug said:
Silva - you ever use those cool looking mechanix gloves that the guys on Spike TV's Powerblock use? I'm thinking about some, but my wish list is back burner till I get some Christmas paid off!
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Nope, looking for Detailing compliant gloves but right now it's not that important. My Hitachi runs just fine with its handle.
 
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