Long Term Wax Test. Collinite, Lusso, Griots, DoDo

[WaxAddict]

A belated question about the Meg`s Detailer line X-press Spray Wax:
Does it "add" any gloss to the existing waxes, (IE, Does one of the test waxes appear glossier than the others) and how long does the beading effect last?

I am just curious; did your test vehicle sit outside for most of this test? I am assuming that your Florida (?) sun and early spring temps are already breaking down the carnauba wax after 8 weeks.

I noticed no difference in the entire test panel after application of Meg`s Detailer line X-press Spray Wax, other than the spray wax`s own gloss and minor filling.

Yes, the car is outside 24-7, Florida.

It`s worth mentioning that I would typically get better performance than shown because I`d sporadically be using something like QD+ or X-press during the 8 weeks period. On this test, I used ONR once during the 8 weeks.

 

[davidc]

Wow, depressing to see that failure rate at least in the beading department. The big question I guess since there is no definitive evidence "Is the protection still there when the beading is gone". At least on the 915 side 2 Months is a long way from 9. I sure hope the 476 does better.

Dave

 

[Accumulator]

Huh, even given the conditions of the test that`s sure not the kind of longevity I`d want these days (with no special measures), but I bet it`s fine for you "like to wax" people.

WaxAddict- Still can`t get ya to include FK1000P, huh? Sorry...couldn`t resist I never tried the 915 as the 476S is (supposedly) much more durable, and I retired *that* as soon as I`d tried the FK.

If you decide to do the "underlying product" and/or layering, there`ll be a need to figure out a good methodology...people who do things differently from how *I* do them get results that`re very different from mine.

 

[davidc]

I personally would skip the glaze and test the wax/sealants on their own merit. I still have a hard time with all those products dieing around the same period. Maybe you are right and the pollen left a coating over the waxes>>>>>>>>maybe?

Dave

 

[RavenHawk]

Oh, and time for another test! :rockon Hmmmm, the other day I was thinking...

... glaze underneath a wax vs. no glaze (does the glaze affect longevity?)
... 3 coats of a wax vs. 1 coat (see if layering wax is a waste of time)
... WGDGPS vs. 476 vs. Soft99

Great idea!

 

[WaxAddict]

... WaxAddict- Still can`t get ya to include FK1000P, huh? Sorry...couldn`t resist ...

Yeah Accum, I should get some. Too busy buying products I`ve never heard of like Beauty Shine, Ardex, and Mitchel & King.

... I still have a hard time with all those products dieing around the same period ...

Me too, David, totally, but the truth can`t be denied. Now let`s talk about what could have happened...

... Maybe you are right and the pollen left a coating over the waxes ...

Maybe, but maybe not so much as a coating, or a shearing effect like I said earlier, but maybe the pollen dissolved the wax? I`ve been reading online, and there`s plenty of talk that pollen damages paint due to scratching, but I also read that pollen is acidic. Water activates the acid in pollen. We had pollen in early March, then rain, then about a week of the car just sitting there baking in the sun. Something has to explain the 915 going from "easily detectable" to "nothing" in 1.5 weeks.

 

[rlmccarty2000]

Nice test. I`m not surprised at the results. I get pretty similar results in S. Georgia. The heat just kills waxes. I`m not sure the layering test would prove anything. I`m pretty much convinced that the solvents in waxes will remove the previous layer negating any positive results. How about a wax over a sealant test, since the solvents shouldn`t remove the sealant? Maybe do a sealant after it cures 4, 8, and 12 hours to see if cure time effects durability.

 

[Accumulator]

Pollen would sometimes appear to kill Collinite for me, but never did anything significant to FK1000P even when I left it on there for a long time through numerous rains/etc.

.. I`m pretty much convinced that the solvents in waxes will remove the previous layer negating any positive results. How about a wax over a sealant test, since the solvents shouldn`t remove the sealant? Maybe do a sealant after it cures 4, 8, and 12 hours to see if cure time effects durability.

Noting how YMMV and that there are a whole lotta factors...IME it`s easy enough to test whether layering works and with sufficient time between applications and applying subsequent layers very gently I`ve seldom had the "like removes like"/solvent-action remove previously applied layers to the extent that it rendered the layering futile (exception- I saw no durability benefit from layering Souveran even when I spit-shined it). Heh heh, I sure wouldn`t bother putting on another layer of [anything] unless I were certain that there`d be a functional benefit.

E.g., I know about that micro-level measurement of attempts to layer Collinite that "proved" (scare-quotes intentional) it did NOT layer, but if that`s the case then how did the areas I did with more applications keep beading/staying slick/behaving like they were waxed so much longer?

E.g.#2, when FK1000p layering goes haywire it causes pseudo-holograms from the solvent action. But even then (including after I`ve buffed away those pseudo-holograms) those areas "behave like they`re still waxed" longer so my interpretation is that the solvent action is not sufficient to fully remove the previously-applied product. And as I keep posting, when FK1000P is layered successfully it lasts for an incredibly long time..at least for me. Much longer than just one application, by a very significant margin.

I`m assuming that everyone here accepts that products like KSG layer, right?

 

[WaxAddict]

...

... I`m assuming that everyone here accepts that products like KSG layer, right?

I think sealants, acrylic or otherwise, should layer, because you just don`t need the solvents for suspension that you need with carnauba. I think that a purely natural wax might not layer, just like your Souveran didn`t layer. But, a lot of "waxes" have polymers and *should* benefit from a second coat. In hybrid wax/sealant products, perhaps the carnauba is there for looks, so maybe we`re just layering the polymer content of "waxes" and simply using the carnauba content as an appearance enhancer, so who cares if subsequent coats are erasing the existing carnauba - the solvent content is staying in-tact.

 

[Accumulator]

WaxAddict- Yeah, I don`t know from the chemistry behind this stuff but I always figure that sealants, and especially acrylics, will layer. Do wish it made a bigger diff performance-wise with some of `em though.

Heh, another carnauba that shouldn`t layer but always did for me (only used the Pre-VOC version though) was Malm`s liquid. It wasn`t some hybrid, just a liquid, carnaube-based wax very similar to the liquid version of M26. But it absulutely *did* layer, had to strip it off after a while as it became a "wax buildup" just like in the floorcare commercials.

AFAIK the only Autopian who`s currently using it is JustJesus, and I haven`t heard much from him other than how hydrophobic it (still, post-VOC) is.

Eh, IMO when it comes to layering it`s probably best to try stuff for oneself given the YMMV thing, some of my experiences sure surprised me and I`d thought `em through pretty well beforehand.