I have a long scratch on the passenger side hood of my wifes black ML350 that runs from the windshield almost down to the grill. It seems to be isolated to the clear coat, as you can't feel the scratch with your fingers and can't detect it with your fingernail. I have tried Meguiars ScratchX as well as #9 Swirl Remover and Griots Garage Machine Polish #3 all using a PC and orange polishing pad. Although the scratch is a bit less noticable. It's definitely still there and is annoying the heck out of me. I recently applied AIO and SG with a top coat of #16. To prepare the vehicle for the winter, but I would really like to get rid of the scratch once and for all. I know that basically I will probably need to reduce the clear coat down to the lowest point of the scratch to completely eliminate it and I was wondering if Meguiars DACP might be a good choice. I know that DACP is supposed to be used with a rotary buffer, but I have read several posts in which it has been used with a PC with good results. Does anyone feel that this might be a good next step to try for removing the scratch? (Sorry for the long post)
Long scratch on hood of black car
- Thread starter YukonG
- Start date
Eliot Ness
Active member
YukonG said:
Megâ€â„¢s #9 and Griots Garage Machine Polish #3 are pretty mild polishes, so to remove that scratch you will have to use a more aggressive polish.
DACP is fine for use with a PC (hence the name âہ“Dual Action Machine Polishâ€Â�).
(EDIT: Mike Phillips from Meguiar's corrected me about the name and its association with the PC, but as he stated it can be used with the rotary buffer, an orbital buffer, dual action polisher and by hand.)
If you want to stick with Megâ€â„¢s products DACP followed by #80 is a good combo. You may even want to try #80 first if it is a very light scratch.
The other combo I use and recommend over the Megâ€â„¢s is 3M PI III RC (rubbing compound) and PI III MG (machine glaze). Both are great products, are easy to use with the PC, and contain no fillers. With a polish or an orange pad the MG alone may be enough to take that scratch out.
Remember to always start out with the least aggressive product/pad and then step up only if needed.
To see why myself and others recommend the 3M PI III RC and MG scroll down the following thread until you see the pictures of what Alfisti was able to remove with just MG:
http://autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=46523&perpage=12&pagenumber=2
Another idea is to use a small 4" pad to work on the scratch, they have come in quite handy for me. Here is a source for both the pads and the smaller backing plate:
http://www.properautocare.com/4inspotreppa.html
Mike_Phillips
Administrator
Hi YukonG,
Random Isolated Deeper Scratches, (R.I.D.S.), can be removed, but it's kind of an advanced procedure. The below is from an article I'm writing. It's not finished, and it's not on the A-List of things to do, but it can be done.
How To Remove Random Isolated Deeper Scratches using the Feather Sanding Technique
Mike
Random Isolated Deeper Scratches, (R.I.D.S.), can be removed, but it's kind of an advanced procedure. The below is from an article I'm writing. It's not finished, and it's not on the A-List of things to do, but it can be done.
How To Remove Random Isolated Deeper Scratches using the Feather Sanding Technique
Mike
imported_fireberd350
New member
That hood looks great.
However, in the sun picture it shows the passenger side swirled and the driver side polished but above that you show the work being done to the passenger side?
However, in the sun picture it shows the passenger side swirled and the driver side polished but above that you show the work being done to the passenger side?
Mike_Phillips
Administrator
Eliot Ness said:
Just to add to what Eliot Ness wrote...
#83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish gets it's name because it's a Cleaner/Polish. It contains a diminishing abrasive that breaks down under time, heat and pressure. After it has broken down, the rich polishing oils create clarity and gloss.
Because it performs two functions, it is called Dual Action. All Meguiar's Cleaner/Polishes have this ability and the term dual action can be applied to them as well, however it's not a part of their product name. Example: #9 Swirl Remover 2.0 is a dual action cleaner/polish so is #80 Speed Glaze.
Just thought I'd try to clear this up as I've seen this association between Meguiar's #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish and the Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher on forums in the past and it's technically not correct as the #83 DACP can be used with the rotary buffer, an orbital buffer, dual action polisher and by hand.
Hope this helps...
Mike
Mike_Phillips
Administrator
fireberd350 said:
That's because I used this car for a Side-by-Side, Before & After demonstration to demonstrate what can be done with the right tools and the right procedures for BimmerFest 2002.
Mike
Bill D
Hooked For Life
Mike , instead of cutting the pieces of sanding paper can the appropriate grit block be used instead? I'm on the fence as to what to get: paper or block
Mike_Phillips
Administrator
Bill D said:
Not really. The blocks are best used for removing runs and sags or dirt nibs, things above the surface level. The postage stamp size pieces of finishing paper work best for me. I've heard of a guy who uses our blocks to sand paint, but it seem like it would be more difficult plus take longer.
Mike
the other pc
New member
To back up what Mike said, I think Meg's grit blocks work much better for raised defects (drips, runs) than depressed defects (scratches, swirls, pits).
I bought a bunch of them with the bright idea of using them for scratches. I was used to Sandflex blocks, which are pretty soft, and assumed the Meg's blocks were similar. They aren't. They're hard and won't conform to the surface.
They're great for knocking down something that's sticking up but not so good for leveling out and area. To level an area a firm but compliant sanding block like Meg's Sanding Backing Pad is better.
PC.
I bought a bunch of them with the bright idea of using them for scratches. I was used to Sandflex blocks, which are pretty soft, and assumed the Meg's blocks were similar. They aren't. They're hard and won't conform to the surface.
They're great for knocking down something that's sticking up but not so good for leveling out and area. To level an area a firm but compliant sanding block like Meg's Sanding Backing Pad is better.
PC.
Hi Mike!
I remember that day! It was great meeting you and Lynn at the Meg's booth! :xyxthumbs
Here is a better pic of Mike and the very shiny hood on that very same M5.
If was amazing to see the side by side difference that Mike had made to that hood! :bow :bow Plus Mike and Lynn are very good people as well.
Cheers,
I remember that day! It was great meeting you and Lynn at the Meg's booth! :xyxthumbs
Here is a better pic of Mike and the very shiny hood on that very same M5.
If was amazing to see the side by side difference that Mike had made to that hood! :bow :bow Plus Mike and Lynn are very good people as well.
Cheers,
Thanks John and Mike for your very helpful responses! John, those 4 inch pads sound like a great idea and their price is very reasonable. Mike, I've always been quite partial to Meguiars products and I was wondering if you think I should try the Speed Glaze first, as John suggested, or can I just use the DACP? Also, to get the benifits of the "Buffered Abrasives" in Meguiars polishes, should I start out with a setting of 3-4 on the PC and then crank it up to start breaking down the product? I'm assuming that I can follow up either product the the #9, do you agree?