long lasting method? 1Z/Klasse?

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imported_nadir

New member
Hi guys



Well, I got my PC and some goodies.. so far, I've got:



Klasse AIO, Klasse SG, Zaino Z1, Zaino Z2 and now I've got the set of Einszett polishes (UP, PP, MP, EP).





For my first detail w/ the PC, i'd like to work on my dad's 94 Corolla. I'm not sure if it has a clearcoat on it but I was thinking of using wash-> clay-> PP -> AIO ->SG



What do you think? Maybe I can skip PP all together? I mentioned "Long lasting" in my title because i'm thinking that an acrylic polish like Klasse will last a long time and I don't intend on workin on my dad's car for a couple months.



thanks for helping this noob out!
 
I bet you WILL need the PP, most cars need some polishing. The AIO oughta strip the "wax" that the PP leaves behind, so you should be OK. OR you could just go all-1Z, with PP, MP, EP and see how long THAT lasts. I bet it would last longer than you'd think.
 
hmm alright, thanks!



I will go with the full 1Z line on my car, but on my dads... i wanna try the PP ->AIO -> SG.



what happens if I skip the SG and use EP?
 
nadir said:
..what happens if I skip the SG and use EP?
Click to expand...



Heh heh, beats me. I don't think I'd bother with the AIO then, it's not really gonna add anything long-lasting anyhow. I bet the wax in MP lasts longer than AIO does, and I really dunno about mixing K/1Z products at that point. I'd only use the AIO if I were applying SG.
 
oh yeah, here's the BEFORE pics... havne't worked on the car. I will post afters by the end of the day.



I know there's some bird crap that refuses to come off the hood... i'm hoping that clay bar and the AIO will get rid of that.



On the side of the car, there's some damage... one door I might have to do by hand just because there's a crease in the panel and I dont wanna tear up or damage my foam pad on that.



anyways, here are the pics:



corolla1.JPG




corolla2.JPG




corolla3.JPG
 
:eek:



Guess you'll have to start with 1Z UP and a cutting pad. Only when you are satisfied with the surface you should go for the PP, I mean, when you think it looks great, switch to a polishing pad and use PP. Then, you can AIO and SG.



Good work, enjoy! :xyxthumbs
 
jgv said:
..Guess you'll have to start with 1Z UP and a cutting pad. Only when you are satisfied with the surface you should go for the PP, I mean, when you think it looks great, switch to a polishing pad and use PP...
Click to expand...



Let me tweak that advice just a little bit, if I may. I'd switch to the PP and a CUTTING pad when you've removed MOST of the marring with the UP/cutting, THEN switch to the PP/polishing.



Whenever I use UP (by hand, PC, or rotary), it leaves marring of its own. I'd hate for nadir to keep working it until he runs out of clearcoat, expecting something the UP just won't deliver. While I like UP for the really heavy work, I'd try to switch to the (much) milder PP ASAP.
 
Ok, you may :D



But, when using a PC, that mar is hardly visible, specially on a car like that.

What I thought was, after starting to work it w/ UP, the improvement will be huge and I'm sure he'll say (think) that's it, it's done! :nixweiss

So, if following with PP.... you know ;)
 
:wavey jgv OK, I see what you mean, didn't mean to split hairs TOO much ;)



Yeah, just because *I* always :eek: about the UP's micromarring doesn't mean anyone else would; I'm not always a normal individual when it comes to some of these things :D So it's always risky trying to put myself in someone else's shoes.



Heh heh, the last time I did a car in that condition with a PC I ended up going through two wool pads and about a quart of harsh compound, and here I am recommending gentle procedures :o
 
hey guys



I am still doin it... it's nite but i moved the car into the garage.



I wasn't too sure about the UP because i don't know if the car has a clearcoat or not... I was scared of rubbing away the paint or something lol.



Well, clay barring the whole car is the worst part. It's taking forever. After claying, I buff the residue off and hit the panel with PP and yellow cutting pad.



I applied some QD to the pad... well I did initially to the hood but it refused to dry so I just kept using it until the pad is sorta dry now.



Some of that bird crap is still embedded into the paint... I am just going to live with it for now... i'm too tired to go back and start with UP. I got 3 more cars to work on so I will definately hit UP on one of em.



I'm not sure whether to go with Klasse or just finish the car off w/ Metallic Polish. Maybe Express Polish?



I do see improvement... but it isn't that great.



Actually, I will hit the hood with UP tonight and see how it looks like. If the difference is significant, I will finish the rest of the car with it.



So... UP/Cutting or UP/polishing? Remember, the hood has already been cleaned w/ clay bar and PP/cutting. Also, is misting the pad w/ QD needed in this case? I know it's needed for Klasse but I wasn't sure with the 1Z products. Thanks.
 
just to add on to my last post... here are some updated pics:



The hood after a wash and clay bar:

clay.JPG




The hood after PP/cutting:

pp.JPG




The bird crap on the hood that refuses to go off even after clay barring and PP/cutting:

crap.JPG
 
Accumulator said:




Yeah, just because *I* always :eek: about the UP's micromarring doesn't mean anyone else would; I'm not always a normal individual when it comes to some of these things :D
Click to expand...



:D He he, I hear you Accumulator, I consider myself in the same boat :D
 
ok I redid the car w/ UP all around.. a little bit better, but that bird crap refuses to go away!



ok so i'm using the PC for the first time... I apply some UP on the yellow pad, attack a panel, but after like 3 minutes of goin at it, it isn't buffing away... like it isn't turning to powder and buffing off. I always just stop and wipe the thin layer off with an MF towel. is this ok?
 
nadir,

Good job so far. Just remember the 1Z polishes contain some fillers - waxes, oils, whatever. As a final polishing step, I use Menzerna's Final Polish. It is water based and will remove any and all of the fillers from the 1Z. When wiping off the FP with a MF, you should hear the paint squeek, literally. I use the finest pad I have at 6 on a PC or maybe 1200-1300 on a rotary and work it until it "dusts", then MF it off. FP really burnishes the paint to a high shine and since it removes fillers you will be able to see any marring you might have "hidden" with the others. Thit give you a chance to go back and fix them before applying any of the "shiney stuff". FP makes whatever you put on top look even better - AIO, SG x3, UPP x.., SONUS as a QD. SG, UPP and SONUS (for me), and all are compatable so they can be layered individually or alternately.



After what you have done, I'm starting to think the etchings from the bird p--p may require wet sanding. Here a link to some ultra-fine papers. As with everything autopian, start with the least aggressive first..... and be very, very careful. Do searches for wet sanding and read, read, read. Practice on a beater if you have access to one before going after your immediate problem.



http://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/mmr_discs.htm#5_5_loop
 
I would maybe try some white vinegar(apply then rub in with foam applicator) on the Bird Crap. It seems to be kinda stained and hopefully the vinegar could take out allot of the stain, the etching of course would be a different story.



Also I have SGx2 over MP on two cars right now and so far everything has been good. The cars def. look great, but I dunno how long it will last or anything. SG seemed to work just like normal.
 
nadir- You're on the right track using the UP with a cutting pad. Go from that to PP/cutting then PP/polishing. I never prep the pads with a QD, I just work the 1z polish into the pad and go from there. I don't work the 1Z polishes until the "turn to powder", I don't dry them out that much. I usually work them until the abrasives break down and no more (you get a feel for this after you use them a bit).



On "drivers" I just let serious marring go after working it a reasonable amount. Better to have imperfect clearcoat than too-thin clearcoat.



Gonzo- The way you always finish up with the FP has prompted me to buy some. No idea when I'll use it (or if I'll use the rotary or PC with it), but at least I have it on hand...



Dinzdale40- Interesting about the SG over MP. Please keep us apprised as to how it wears.
 
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