Liquid Souveran on a Rio Red '97 Cobra

If you are referring to me, it's not my only car. I have four actually, and at one time three of them were supercharged.
 
Scottwax said:
Meh. I ran a 14.68 @ 100 mph with a 2.56 open rear end full exhaust and street tires in my Chevelle, which at the time had a GM Targetmaster 350 (the 8:1 4 bolt main stock replacement engine) with a Comp Cams 268H, 041 fuelie heads, Edelbrock Torker intake, Holley 650 double pumper and B&M Holeshot. I went through the traps at 5800 rpm in 2nd gear! :p



Of course, going with a 4.11 posi rear end, Comp Cam 292 Magnum, Holley Strip Dominator, 700 double pumper and Hughes 4000 stall converter made it a tad quicker (12.84 @ 108!) but I also got 6-7 mpg in town and 9 mpg on the freeway.



I am sure even with 4.33s, the 'Stang does significantly better on gas and probably has a/c to boot! I'm sure it stops better than my Chevelle and its horrible front drum brakes did. :(



Scott this post gets my best Tim Allen impersonation "ooooh..oh...oh". :cool: That was one BAD ARSE Chevelle!! :xyxthumbs :bow :xyxthumbs
 
1 Clean WS6 said:
Scott this post gets my best Tim Allen impersonation "ooooh..oh...oh". :cool: That was one BAD ARSE Chevelle!! :xyxthumbs :bow :xyxthumbs



I still have dreams about it a few times a year. I really wish I wasn't forced to sell it but the engine tossed a rod because the machine shop didn't magnaflux and shotpeen them like they were supposed to. I was fixin' to move from Dallas back to Phoenix and just couldn't wait on a small claims court case to go through. I ended up selling the car without an engine and bought my Dad's 1977 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (with crushed velour interior!), modded the 350 (Edelbrock Performer, Holley 650 Spreadbore, true dual exhaust-the single exhaust was the most horribly restricted POS I've ever seen-the driver's side pipe was routed under the engine and up into the manifold on the passenger side against the flow of the passenger side manifold-just unreal, the driver's side flow had to make a 270 or so degree turn to go back down with the passenger side flow--just ditching the stock exhaust for true duals with Sonic turbos dropped hand timed 0-60 from 9.2 to 7.8 seconds!; 2200 rpm stall converter and swapped the 2.41 rear end for 2.73s-the best I could find:( )



Ran pretty good, but 6 months later, I bought a Delta 88 with a 455 and swapped that engine into the Cutlass. Fun for a few months until some moron ran a light and totalled it. :( :(



The Cutlass was a fun sleeper, but not nearly as quick as the Chevelle.
 
whoa, talk about liquid. very nice. :xyxthumbs those year cobras were probably one of the nicest cobras. then again, all year cobras look bad-***. :p



14.1@101 in ~85 degrees with a 2.1 60'......all done with a 281 cubic inch motor! :cool:
 
Well since we're on the topic of drag racing, I went to the track tonight. Here are my results......



13.5@103 2.0 60'

13.5@103 1.9 60'

13.5@103 2.0 60' - cutout open

13.4@103 1.9 60' - cutout closed

13.5@103 2.0 60'



90 degrees

85% humidity

29.94 pressure



28psi in the BFG drag radials dead hooking every time (no burnouts, just peeled out to clean them off).



Not bad considering it ran a 13.4@103 2.0 60' back in April when it was a little bit cooler out.
 
All I need is a 3000 stall converter, I gaurantee I can break 12's with one of them :D



I'll have one in by December, and I'll let you know what I run :)



After that, maybe a small cam (LT4 hotcam or Comp Cams XE 224/230) along with 1.6 roller rockers to stay comfortably in the mid 12's. There are ALOT of LT1's with boltons and cam swaps in the 11's and low 12's.
 
I'm sure when the winter rolls around I'll be able to pull off some 13.2's easily. Stall converters usually shave a solid .5 off the ET on these cars. 1.7 60's aren't uncommon...



3 tenths off the 60' time is about 4-5 tenths off the ET.
 
I'd say that you will need a much better tire to shave off 3 tenths on the 60 foot. I say screw it and throw a 150 shot on there and go some low 11's. Skip the 12's all together! :D When my car was stock with nitrous (about nine years ago), I ran a 14.75 on motor and 12.20 on the spray. Not bad for throwing on a $150 used nitrous kit!......yes, I was nickle and diming it back in those days.:o
 
Many people cut 1.4 and 1.5 60' times on BFG drag radials....I don't see why I would change them. Don't know if you read it or not, but I'm DEAD hooking. My 60' is so crappy because the motor just isn't in its powerband with the stock ~1500 RPM torque converter.



I really don't want to spray my motor...if I break 11's, it's either I'm banned from the track or I get a 6-point cage which just isn't going to happen.
 
I wouldn't worry about breaking out of the 11's. Even spraying, you'd be a solid 11 second car, but no faster without upgrading some pieces. Besides, you don't have to put a whole 150 shot either, you can go with a 75 and have a boat load of fun!



A 1.4 or 1.5 short time is awesome. With a 10.60 pass, on 28 x 10.5" slicks and 5200rpm on the transbrake, I'm only getting a 1.49 short time. Granted, I should be getting better than that. I know what my problem is, and it's the fact that I'm using polyurethane bushings and not solids in the rear end. After three passes, the bushings are egg shaped and the rear end is all over the place.
 
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