Limited time-frame.....Mother's/Langka?

S

slvrshadow94tt

New member
I've never used either Mother's/Langka for paint chip repair before. After extensive searching on this forum about the two, I've realized that there are good and not-so-good experiences from using both. And if I remember correctly, a couple members stated that Mother's brand and Langka are really one and the same. I've also learned that the best results with either will come from practice with the product. I figured I would go and buy the Mother's and give it a try but the only place I have found that stocks this product is almost an hour drive away.



My problem is that I'm on a limited time-frame to do this project and I would really like to hear from the "perfectionists" on this forum as to whether or not these products are worth wasting my afternoon and money to acquire.



I consider myself to be of the "perfectionist" mentality and I already have the factory touch-up paint, every grade of 3M wet-sand paper, brushes, etc. to do the job the traditional way.



Also, I've used Meguiars products for years but haven't tried their DACP yet. Can I use DACP by hand to remove the marring after sanding the paint chip repairs down? Or should I use something else.



Lastly, during a previous searching session days ago, I think I came across a list that someone had made describing which SMR's had "fillers" and those that were "non-filling". But now I can't seem to find it. (I need to get a printer hooked up to this laptop :) )
 
The products are basically the same - we licensed the technology from Langka.



Downside - in metallic touch-ups, the metallic flakes are lighter than the paint, so they tend to rise to the top. When you use the product to remove the blob, it often takes off too much metallic flake (since they've risen to the top), meaning the spot's not a perfect match.



Upside - unlike wetsanding, if you work too hard, it simply means you apply more touch-up paint and start over.



I'm experimenting with a slightly different technique - apply the touch-up paint, wait a few (5 or so) minutes, then use the blue included "card" perpendicular to the paint, against the surface, to "shave" off the still wet excess blob.



Then, use the Lankga to wipe the surrounding smear off, never touching the spot you just "shaved".



BTW, nearest places I can think of to you for purchase are in Nashville TN and Calvert City KY.



HTH.
 
Thanks Forrest:up



I think I will stick with the traditional method for nowand give the Mother's/Langka a shot on one of my daily drivers in the future.



Any takers on the 1) DACP question, and 2) the "fillers / non-filling" list that I've been searching for?
 
A paint manufacturer told me Langka is basically lacquer thinner...which makes since because touchup paints are lacquer-based so they dry faster. I ordered Langka a month or so ago...haven't used it yet.
 
Forrest - You noted that a downside to Mothers/Langka is that for metalic paints, the metal chips rise to the top and when you smooth down the blob with the product it strips away some of those flakes thereby making it hard to get a precise match.

To remedy this can I apply several small layers of paint (letting each one dry for a couple hours or so) until the paint level is higher than the chip and then use Mother/Langka? Instead of having one blob of paint where the metal flakes rise to the top, you'd have several layers, that way when you start leveling it out you have metal flakes throughout the blob.

Am I wrong?
 
djmm - Your idea sounds like the way to go. Just let the layers dry for a day or so before you apply the next. An hour or so may not be long enough, but there's always trial and error.



Another idea would be to apply a layer of the touch up, then a layer of clear - the Langka won't get to the flakes that way.



Off to the garage to check how the autovisuals.com pen does with Langka, since lots of folks have mentioned it. Touched up some chips on my Chili Red MINI Cooper S yesterday afternoon.
 
I used the mother's scratch repair kit a while back on my silver Accord on a 4" scratch on the rear right panel and it turned out fine. Yes, all the metal flakes were removed when I leveled the blob :(. I might go back and do the layering thing sometime, but there's no rush since it's barely noticeable anyways. Like forrest said, it will take several days for the layer method, so be patient :D.



Btw, I got mine online from autobarn.
 
Update - Langka with autovisuals.com pen:



The pen uses urethane instead of lacquer based paint, which dries much slower. So, even though I waited 24 hours (~85ºF, 70% humidity), the paint wasn't completely cured, and more came off than I intended.



So, I applied more pen-paint and I'll wait until Monday (120 hours) to see if it works better.



Need to get the chips repaired so I can have the x-pel installed.....
 
forrest,



where is this sold in Calvert City, Ky? I am only about 45 mins from there and would love to buy the product. Also, where in Nashville, as that is only about an hour away.



Thanks
 
cpa4u - in Calvert City, go see Custom Automotive. In Nashville, Hunter's Custom Automotive.



Both stock basically everything we make.
 
Also, I've used Meguiars products for years but haven't tried their DACP yet. Can I use DACP by hand to remove the marring after sanding the paint chip repairs down? Or should I use something else.



Lastly, during a previous searching session days ago, I think I came across a list that someone had made describing which SMR's had "fillers" and those that were "non-filling". But now I can't seem to find it. (I need to get a printer hooked up to this laptop :) ) [/B][/QUOTE]





Any takers on the these questions?:nixweiss
 
there is a lot of info regarding swirl removers, put "swirl remover" or DACP in the search field and you'll get more than you can hanldle :D.



DACP and #9 are good. Using a PC is highly highly highly (did I say highly? :) ) recommended.

Many people (myself included) spritz the surface with a 50/50 mix of alcohol and water to remove any fillers.
 
djmn method does work with Langka, I've used the same method on my Pearl Black Metallic Paint successfully.



I did note that Langka can and will remove some clear coat around the chip and will leave it smoother than the natural slight orange peel on factory finish so be careful if your factory paint is thin! I'm not speaking from experience thankfully.



I am planning to touch up a few more spots in the coming month, I'll try to post some before and after shots. Langka/Mothers is a good product but not perfect. Use it on an inconspicous area for practice before using it on highly visible areas. BTW on some paints dry time is very fast (1.5 Hours on the MB Touch Paint) and if you wait too long to use the Langka you will be rubbing forever and possibly rub through your clearcoat :scared so keep track of drying time.
 
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