Light Marring after washing

joe.p

New member
I finally found the time to complete my 3rd layer UPP nearly 2 weeks ago .The other day it rained so i parked in the garage and used some S & W with a WW to dry the car .the next day i noticed some marring on the trunk and rear panels. Is their something i can use to remove the marring with out removing the UPP?
 
The short answer is probably not. Occasionally (maybe a little more often) you will find marring that is actually in the wax or sealer but my experience is that this is the exception rather than the rule. I've seen this discussed a few times before and some feel that it's in the finishing product alot of the time. I just haven't found that to be the case.

You might try one of the quick detailers that has some wax (fillers) in it and this may help the problem between waxes.
 
GearHead_1 said:
The short answer is probably not. Occasionally (maybe a little more often) you will find marring that is actually in the wax or sealer but my experience is that this is the exception rather than the rule. I've seen this discussed a few times before and some feel that it's in the finishing product alot of the time. I just haven't found that to be the case.

You might try one of the quick detailers that has some wax (fillers) in it and this may help the problem between waxes.
I would think the marring is on the wax, other then some scratch'es i couldn't remove with the PC it was a pretty smooth surface. i washed the car a few X prior and everything was ok. I should have dampen the WW before using it.

would Megs scratch X remover take off the sealent?
 
The possibility of the marring in the LSP is something I would check first. Maybe do one of the areas with a paint cleaner such as KAIO and see what happens.

One other thing I wonder about.
Is a WW towel a good idea for use with S&W?
Mine WW's don't have enough nap fro me to feel comfortable using them with S&W.
Since I always use a terry MF, I can't give anything but my opinion, but a WW wouldn't be my choice.

Charles

ps. Missed the Scratch-X question. I'm sure it would affect the sealant in a bad way.
 
CharlesW said:
One other thing I wonder about.
Is a WW towel a good idea for use with S&W?
Mine WW's don't have enough nap fro me to feel comfortable using them with S&W.
Since I always use a terry MF, I can't give anything but my opinion, but a WW wouldn't be my choice.

Charles,
The car was wet from the rain and though to use the WW to absorb the water.I added the S & G for the extra glide ,but you do have a good point. S & W might have been the better of the two..
 
joe.p said:
The car was wet from the rain and though to use the WW to absorb the water.I added the S & G for the extra glide ,but you do have a good point. S & W might have been the better of the two..
Unfortunately, it looks like you may have used two products that weren't quite right for the job at hand.
Your original post did say S&W, not S&G and considering that after a rain, there is likely to be a somewhat dirty surface to work with, S&W would have been my choice.
I still don't think I would use a WW for anything but drying a just washed vehicle.

Charles
 
My error, it was S & G. With a few more months of winter left i might have to live with it. i'm sure their will be more,besides the marring the CC seems to be softer then other cars.This sux although it isn't that bad it bothers me..
 
I would check your drying technique...are you wiping or blotting?
blotting will help prevent marring and get most of the water, then use a soft terry type mf with the S&W to clean up the remainder
 
joe.p said:
I finally found the time to complete my 3rd layer UPP nearly 2 weeks ago .The other day it rained so i parked in the garage and used some S & W with a WW to dry the car .the next day i noticed some marring on the trunk and rear panels. Is their something i can use to remove the marring with out removing the UPP?

If you have some UPC (Ultimate Paint Cleaner), it will do 2 things...

-Clear up the minor marring
-Put down a base that UPP LOVES!

I don't post enough on 4* products, but they have an excellent line up.
 
Poorboy said:
I would check your drying technique...are you wiping or blotting?
blotting will help prevent marring and get most of the water, then use a soft terry type mf with the S&W to clean up the remainder
I take the WW flip it on the surface grab the bottom of the WW and pull it down and across the surface,I think i should have dampen it 1st, I did the same crap before with a Megs WW.

Steve would a light polish with the PWS do the trick?


If you have some UPC (Ultimate Paint Cleaner), it will do 2 things...

-Clear up the minor marring
-Put down a base that UPP LOVES!

I don't post enough on 4* products, but they have an excellent line up.
__________________
At this point i hate to order my products but i will keep the UPC in mind for a future purchase.
 
With my experience using WW I found that it always works best to use it with a MF towel. Even if it just for a quick touch up. Even though you might have used S&G if you would have used a MF you would have reduced the marring. My guess would be the marring is in the paint so it would be best to go over the area with somthing like SSR1. I could be all wrong so feel free to correct me.
 
CharlesW said:
Unfortunately, it looks like you may have used two products that weren't quite right for the job at hand.
Your original post did say S&W, not S&G and considering that after a rain, there is likely to be a somewhat dirty surface to work with, S&W would have been my choice.
I still don't think I would use a WW for anything but drying a just washed vehicle.

Charles
I'm with Charles. I think it's likely the problem lies in your choice of towels. I don't think a WW has enough knap to hold dirt away from the paint so as not to induce marring. I think you need to use a more plush MF with a deep knap to QD. IMO WWs are best suited for drying a just washed car. Oh yeah! They're also EXCELLENT for cleaning glass.
 
As said above, I would have used a plush MF instead of a WW, S+W instead of S+G.
As also said, the marring may not be too "deep," so, if you have the chance, try applying another layer of UPP on the affected areas (try it without UPC first). It may blend the marring in enough to be a non-issue. If not, well then I guess you've put back the protection that was rubbed off. ;)
 
joe.p said:
I take the WW flip it on the surface grab the bottom of the WW and pull it down and across the surface,I think i should have dampen it 1st, I did the same crap before with a Megs WW.

Steve would a light polish with the PWS do the trick?

First ..don't drag the WW, just lay it down pat it lightly and pick it up and move to the next area..that is blotting...

Second ..WW don't need to be damped before they can absorb

Third... yes the PwS will probably be enough to remove light marring or as others have said use SSR1

Fourth..as others have said ...follow with the S&W or S&G with a plush soft towel to do final drying/clean-up
 
Poorboy said:
First ..don't drag the WW, just lay it down pat it lightly and pick it up and move to the next area..that is blotting...

Second ..WW don't need to be damped before they can absorb

Third... yes the PwS will probably be enough to remove light marring or as others have said use SSR1

Fourth..as others have said ...follow with the S&W or S&G with a plush soft towel to do final drying/clean-up

Third... yes the PwS will probably be enough to remove light marring or as others have said use SSR1..

1 st i'll try another layer UPP.

Fourth..as others have said ...follow with the S&W or S&G with a plush soft towel to do final drying/clean-up[/QUOTE]

I used a blue plush MF with a couple sprays of S & G to pick up the water left behind from the WW .No way would i use the WW for QD..

I Definately will go with the blotting method in the future.The marring is on the trunk deck and panels.I think the mech who replaced the struts may i wiped this area down after doing the work..No way i could have done this ;) .
 
Well Steve seems like the poll taken from joyride thread shows most use the swipe method as to blotting.

2) i'm not so sure hitting the cars with S & G after using a WW but before drying with the MF was a bad idea. To me i thought i would kill 2 jobs at once Finish up drying with the MF and add some gloss and protection at the same time. What is your thought on this do you think i shouldn't have added the S & G before completely drying...
 
Well Joe, if anyone has ever seen awd330's cars ...litterally swirl free:yes:
she uses the blotting method with S&G while it's wet. I've had conversations with people like Boss429 (who is no longer on DC) and has as much experience as any one person can possibly have, and blotting with a QD is the way to go after flooding the paint. Then following with a plush mf with more QD. This not only removes any dirt missed safely, but also removes any soap residue that wasn't rinsed off.
You can't change a zebras stripes and everyone will have their own method, just as Bill D has with his foam gun and multiple mitts and buckets, so do what works for you and whatever feels comfortable:)
 
Poorboy said:
Well Joe, if anyone has ever seen awd330's cars ...litterally swirl free:yes:
she uses the blotting method with S&G while it's wet. I've had conversations with people like Boss429 (who is no longer on DC) and has as much experience as any one person can possibly have, and blotting with a QD is the way to go after flooding the paint. Then following with a plush mf with more QD. This not only removes any dirt missed safely, but also removes any soap residue that wasn't rinsed off.
You can't change a zebras stripes and everyone will have their own method, just as Bill D has with his foam gun and multiple mitts and buckets, so do what works for you and whatever feels comfortable:)
I understand you ,fwit, i;ll probablty cont the S & G After the WW using a nice blue plush MF to dry with...
 
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