Lexus IS250: MF D300 Paint correction, interior, and Opti-Coat protection.

RaskyR1

Rasky's Auto Detailing
Lexus IS250: MF D300 Paint correction, interior, and Opti-Coat protection.





This car belongs to a great client/friend of mine. The vehicle was in for an early spring detail, Opti-Coat protection, and also to see if I could fix a little mishap where the garage door opening ran into the side of the car.



Paint correction Process:

-D300 MF compound via PCXP 5" MF pads

-GTechniq P2 via rotary and LC cyan foam pad

-Wet sanding was done with 6" disks 1500/3000



Paint and exterior Protection:

-Optimum Opti-Coat (Applied to all paint, glass, trim, and wheels)





Interior Process:

-Carpets/mats cleaned with Folex and the LGM. Some areas pre-treated with 303 fabric cleaner

-Vinyl and dash cleaned with OPC and/or Einszitt Cockpit Premium

-Leather cleaned with OCP and Leather Masters



Note: Several of the interior panels had deep scuffs on them. After discussing with the owner we decided against trying diminish their appearance with a dressing, as we both prefer the natural look and feel.







Before pics:





Yea MN winters!!!

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Here is the damage the garage left behind...

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Don't drive with the windows down right after getting a hair cut...

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After the car was washed, clayed, and paint transfer was removed, this is the damage that remained.

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Good amount of clear to work with....forgot to take after pic reading though. :(

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Taping of clear film edges with 3M Fineline tape

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Swirls and RIDS....these were hard to capture in pics, possibly from the metallic in the paint.

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50/50 with only the D300, which finished down very nicely!

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Jeweling down the paint with GTechniq P2 really brought out some gloss, though it's hard to see in pics.

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Applying the Opti-Coat

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OMG, i love it....That car is so clean, i want to eat off it now. i agree swirls on metallic paint is not easy to capture-or see with the naked eye sometime. I had a hell of a time with a metallic black ford raptor this week.
 
tssdetailing said:
OMG, i love it....That car is so clean, i want to eat off it now. i agree swirls on metallic paint is not easy to capture-or see with the naked eye sometime. I had a hell of a time with a metallic black ford raptor this week.



Thank you!



Detailing Technology said:
Looks great. Interestin combo for polishing and sealing. D300 seems to be a hit with the mf pads.



Thanks! GTechniq is going to be my final polishing step anytime I use a paint coating. They are said to be water based, have no oils/fillers and IPA is not needed after polishing to apply their C1 coating. I hate using IPA on paint so if I can eliminate needing to do that prior to coating the paint I'm happy. :)



Chris@Optimum said:
Great job showcasing your skills! Thanks for sharing.



Thanks Chris! I was able to get the OC application down to 5-6cc's now. :)



Barry Theal said:
Way to go Rasky! She's a stunner!



Thanks buddy! :)



D&D Auto Detail said:
How did you like GTechniq P2? Haven't gotten a chance to use mine yet.



Well, it was my first time using it Dan but it did work very well for this application. The D300 finished down great and I figured P1 was over kill. It really brought out a nice wet looking gloss and it was easy to use. Reminded me a little of Menzerna but without the long working time needed. ;)



N8Dogg98 said:
Looks awesome Chad, good to see you posting on here again. How's married life treating ya!



Thanks Nate! Married life has been great! Not much different than dating really. :)





How you and the old man doing? I sold my house this week but I'm best friends with the guy who bought it and he's going to let me use the shop for a while so there should be no problems touching up the V if/when needed. Calender is filling up fast though so tell him not to wait to long...looking at late April early May right now. ;)
 
RaskyR1 said:
Thanks Nate! Married life has been great! Not much different than dating really. :)



haha, good to hear



RaskyR1 said:
How you and the old man doing? I sold my house this week but I'm best friends with the guy who bought it and he's going to let me use the shop for a while so there should be no problems touching up the V if/when needed. Calender is filling up fast though so tell him not to wait to long...looking at late April early May right now. ;)



I'll let him know Chad, but he did such a nice job keeping it clean and only driving it on sunny days last summer it's actually in pretty nice shape.



In other news, my wife got me some M105, M205, and a jug of ONR for Christmas and holy cow I am hooked! This stuff is awesome, just like you said! Anyways, sorry for the derail great job on that Lexus... that color just looks money all cleaned up



:bounce
 
N8Dogg98 said:
haha, good to hear







I'll let him know Chad, but he did such a nice job keeping it clean and only driving it on sunny days last summer it's actually in pretty nice shape.



In other news, my wife got me some M105, M205, and a jug of ONR for Christmas and holy cow I am hooked! This stuff is awesome, just like you said! Anyways, sorry for the derail great job on that Lexus... that color just looks money all cleaned up



:bounce



Good to hear! :)





I have some other products you should check out too. ;)
 
RaskyR1 - can you give any advice on application of Opti-Coat, and how you can get it down to 5-6cc ? Do you use a foam applicator? MF? Paper Towel?



Thanks in advance...
 
TJ98Cobra said:
RaskyR1 - can you give any advice on application of Opti-Coat, and how you can get it down to 5-6cc ? Do you use a foam applicator? MF? Paper Towel?



Thanks in advance...



Application is very similar to Opti-Seal



I used the supplied foam applicator. I'll apply several small drops evenly spaced over the face of the pad to start with (prime the pad). After that I only add a drop or two for each section, the further you go the less you need. Once I've applied it to an area, I will immediately give any heavy areas a very light buff with a MF towel to even it out, not so much that you remove it though. I've found the heavy areas to be most common at the end or transition point of your application strokes. If you wait more than 20-30 second to even out the heavy areas it will start to get tacky, which IME can be enough to cause some MF towels to lint or break off tiny fibers, so work quickly. Work one panel at a time and if you later find an area that didn't level out, simply go back over it with the applicator again. (within 30-45 minutes)



I know some users have said they rarely need to buff/even out areas, I just haven't got to that point yet. The foam applicator does tend to be grabby, which is why I was using more product before as that would make it glide better. Make sure you have a good hold of it as I dropped a few on my first couple cars, which wastes product.



The syringes are the downfall of the product IMO. I think I have it down now, but a lot of product has been wasted as a result of the syringe. The rubber plunger inside can get sticky, which then requires more force to move, often resulting it a sudden gush of product. Eye protection is strongly recommended IMO. I now give the plunger a twist before pressing down on it, which seem to improve things.



Hope this helps,

Rasky







Scottwax said:
Looks really wet and swirl free in the after shots. Really good interior work too, it was really nasty inside.



Thanks Scott! :)
 
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