Levander's first basic detail

levander

New member
Rather than start a bunch of threads all over the board with my misadventures trying to do a basic detail, I'm just planning on maintaining this one thread.



I'm calling it a basic detail just because I'm not using a polisher. Only doing wash, clay, AIO, seal.



Finally got around to doing the wash today. I was pre-spraying with OPC and then using a sponge covered by microfiber to wipe on some ONR. So, even though ONR is rinseless, because you're supposed to rinse OPC, I was rinsing off after applying the ONR with a garden hose and spray attachment on it. Then I have one of those huge fluffy yellow Vroom MF's to make drying passes.



Issues:



1.) I was sloppy and left the drying towels where I kept spraying them with water. They weren't soaked, but parts of the towels did get pretty wet. Mentioning this because it might come in play in point 2.).



2.) By the time I got to about the 4th panel, when I'd use the drying towel, it was like I was pushing around a thin layer of slime on the car. I'd try buffing it out with the towel, and the slime did get thinner. But it was still there. All I was doing was thinning and spreading it across the paint. I think that was the ONR.



Actually, as typing this, I'm realizing what it probably was. I put the 2 gallons of water in the bucket first. Then, I put the 2 capfuls - to make 1 oz - of the ONR in the bucket. I don't think I mixed it very well. So, at first it was working pretty good. But, as the sponge was taking more water out of the bucket, I got towards the bottom, where most of the ONR was. But, since it wasn't mixed well, there was too much ONR down there? And, it ended up as slime on my paint.



Do I need to go and get that ONR off my car tomorrow?



3.) After finishing the hood, I looked at it from a few angles. At first I thought there were a bunch of dents in my hood. Then, I ran my fingers across them, and there's no dent. It must just be in the paint. It looks kind of like a rain drop as it hits the water and begins to ripple. Only, the image got frozen when the ripples reached about an inch and a half in diamter.



I went over these with some OPC and a MF. Nothing. They're still there.



What are these? Can I get them out?



I vaguely remember a long time ago noticing one or two of those. But, I don't regularly wash my car - it's literally been years - so I'm not positive they were there before.



4.) What about all the chemical and the water that gets on the driveway? I tried to use the garden hose to push the dirty water off the driveway. I got a lot of it, some of it ended up in a recessed corner under my old boat. Is that chemical going to stain the driveway? I assume all the dirt in that water will make it dirty. But, how bad is the OPC and ONR for the driveway?



I quit about half way through. Because of the slime I decided it just wasn't working. And, I was exhausted. It was a long day before I even started trying to wash my car. But, I got a hell of a lot of dirt off it. There was this black gunk on top of the car that I thought were actual places where the paint have come off. But, the gunk did came off. And, the water I tried to spray off the driveway was absolutely filthy. I couldn't believe how dirty it was.
 
levander- I bet you don't need to hear this now, but the biggie here is thoughtful planning and preparation ;)



Noting that I'm sure not any authority on Optimum stuff to say the least, I woulda rinsed off the OPC before switching to the ONR.



I woulda stopped the *second* I realized the ONR wasn't mixed thoroughly and taken care of that.



Yeah, I'd ONR the car again, working smaller areas at a time.



The "ripples" on the hood sound like etching, which you won't be able to correct.



The Optimum stuff shouldn't hurt your driveway.



As noted, this isn't really the way to deal with a *really* neglected car. So...



If working with your apparent constraints, I'd start by using the OPC at a DIY carwash. I don't see any way to avoid a bit of additional marring, so I'd agitate it a bit with some soft MFs, trying to turn/fold/replace them as they get dirty so you're not rubbing the dirt in too badly. Then drive it home and rewash with ONR. Then start the claying.



Hope you have plenty of clay.



Plus, and yeah I know you won't want to hear this, I'd sure be thinking about using *something* besides/instead of the KAIO on this one...
 
levander- I bet you don't need to hear this now, but the biggie here is thoughtful planning and preparation



You've seen my posts? I'm driving people crazy trying to figure out so much. People are like, "just pick a product and run with it! It doesn't matter!"



I woulda stopped the *second* I realized the ONR wasn't mixed thoroughly and taken care of that.



Yeah, I'd ONR the car again, working smaller areas at a time.



That's actually good news. I was thinking I was going to have to IPA it. Which wouldn't be so bad if I knew how to do it. It's the figuring all this stuff out that's driving me crazy.



And yeah, like after a couple of panels, I did get lazy and do larger areas. I'll keep it small.



Plus, and yeah I know you won't want to hear this, I'd sure be thinking about using *something* besides/instead of the KAIO on this one...



No, I'm aware the AIO isn't going to correct anything. Or, very much. I want to get into polishers, but one step at a time. And, I'm not using KAIO. I bought some Duragloss #101 at NAPA. Reading on the forum later, I should have gotten the Duragloss #501 because it's stronger. I might go back and exchange it. But, I'm not sure it's a huge deal.



And really, the car came pretty clean with the ONR and OPC. The half I did do looks a hell of a lot better. Yeah, I'd love it pristine, but what I got is a huge improvement. To my non-Autopian trained eyes, I'm very happy with how it looks just with the OPC and ONR.



I'm an engineer and have learned very well to keep things simple, starting small. And, I've seen that advice here and there on Autopia too. Don't be surprised if in the next 6 months I'm trying to figure out polishers. But at least I won't have a filthy car sitting outside driving me crazy making me try to hurry and learn this stuff. I'm way too picky to be learning this stuff fast.



Hope you have plenty of clay.



Just one bar of Clay Magic Blue I bought at Autozone. Guess I'll need more.



The "ripples" on the hood sound like etching, which you won't be able to correct.



Cool, now that I know what it's called, I can search for it, find out what causes it.



The Optimum stuff shouldn't hurt your driveway.



The only question I've got for now. I'm thinking about pulling the car over into the grass next time. But, it's pretty nice grass. Stuff turns brown in the winter. But comes summer it looks great. Will the Optimum stuff kill my grass?
 
levander said:
You've seen my posts? I'm driving people crazy trying to figure out so much. People are like, "just pick a product and run with it! It doesn't matter!"



Well, gotta apply the preparatory thought to the right things ;) Like setup, process, in-progress evaluation...not the products.



That's actually good news. I was thinking I was going to have to IPA it. Which wouldn't be so bad if I knew how to do it. It's the figuring all this stuff out that's driving me crazy.



IPAing is just wiping the panels with the IPA. Either spritz it on with a sprayer or wipe it on with a MF. But IPA isn't all that great a cleaner and isn't what I'd use for this. Stick to cleaning it with the OPC and ONR.



As for figuring it out, if you're able to write out what you plan to do, how you plan to do it, what you'll be watching out for, what to do if something's amiss, and what end-result you expect...then you should have a good understanding of things. So you might test yourself and see if you could do a write-up before you try doing something. It might expose any gaps in your knowledge/understanding.



No, I don't see that as overthinking it, but rather as applying the thinking in the right way. You strike me as the kind of person who's gonna do the thinking anyhow, might as well make it fruitful.


And yeah, like after a couple of panels, I did get lazy and do larger areas. I'll keep it small.



OK, lesson learned.



No, I'm aware the AIO isn't going to correct anything. Or, very much. I want to get into polishers, but one step at a time. And, I'm not using KAIO. I bought some Duragloss #101 at NAPA. Reading on the forum later, I should have gotten the Duragloss #501 because it's stronger. I might go back and exchange it. But, I'm not sure it's a huge deal.



I'd get the stronger product.



And really, the car came pretty clean with the ONR and OPC. The half I did do looks a hell of a lot better. Yeah, I'd love it pristine, but what I got is a huge improvement. To my non-Autopian trained eyes, I'm very happy with how it looks just with the OPC and ONR.



Good. It's how things look *to you* that matter. Don't fall victim to the Curse of Autopia. Satisfy *yourself*.



Just one bar of Clay Magic Blue I bought at Autozone. Guess I'll need more.



Wouldn't hurt. Tear it into chunks so you don't contaminate the whole thing at once, especially if you drop it (hint hint/warning warning).



Cool, now that I know what it's called, I can search for it, find out what causes it.



Industrial fallout, acid rain, stuff like that. OR it could be the result of a poorly done previous repair.




The only question I've got for now. I'm thinking about pulling the car over into the grass next time. But, it's pretty nice grass. Stuff turns brown in the winter. But comes summer it looks great. Will the Optimum stuff kill my grass?



I'd keep it on the drive myself, but I really dunno if the Optimum stuff would hurt the grass or not.
 
It's been cold here, haven't done any more work yet.



As for figuring it out, if you're able to write out what you plan to do, how you plan to do it, what you'll be watching out for, what to do if something's amiss, and what end-result you expect...then you should have a good understanding of things. So you might test yourself and see if you could do a write-up before you try doing something. It might expose any gaps in your knowledge/understanding.



When I first read this, I was thinking that all you can do is study the process and learn what you're supposed to do. Like, no video I've seen mentions keeping your drying towel away from the spraying water. That's just somethink you screw up and figure out how stupid it is after you've done it.



But, I've been watching a few video tutorials since. And, after you familiarize yourself with the process, you've got to go back and really pay attentions to the warnings. Most video tutorials don't emphasize these enough.



Industrial fallout, acid rain, stuff like that. OR it could be the result of a poorly done previous repair.



I searched this forum for etchings. I don't think it's those. They may be what they call holograms on this forum. But, they "look" deep. You don't know that they're not deep until you run your fingers over them. I need to get pictures up in this thread of it.



I'd get the stronger product.



Napa doesn't have the Duragloss #501. But, I just found out there's one CarQuest in this area. Just called and they're ordering it for me. Pick it up tomorrow. Also stopped at Autozone and bought some more Clay Magic Blue. It's ridiculous how many different stores you have to go to to get the good stuff.
 
levander said:
When I first read this, I was thinking that all you can do is study the process and learn what you're supposed to do. Like, no video I've seen mentions keeping your drying towel away from the spraying water. That's just somethink you screw up and figure out how stupid it is after you've done it...



That's the kind of thing I'd try to come up with in my "what might go wrong; how and why?" prep planning.



But, I've been watching a few video tutorials since. And, after you familiarize yourself with the process, you've got to go back and really pay attentions to the warnings. Most video tutorials don't emphasize these enough.





Yeah, trying to deal with too much info at once can make it harder, so getting a general idea about each aspect will gradually give you the ability to think about other things.



I searched this forum for etchings. I don't think it's those. They may be what they call holograms on this forum. But, they "look" deep. You don't know that they're not deep until you run your fingers over them. I need to get pictures up in this thread of it.



It's almost certainly acid rain etching. See if you can find pertinent info at the AutoInt website: http://www.autoint.com/



It's ridiculous how many different stores you have to go to to get the good stuff.



That's why I just order online.
 
Accumulator, thanks. That way of thinking about it, by concentrating on what can go wrong, really gave me a way to organize this stuff in my head. Makes it easier to digest.



I've probably already ruined this thread with my huge posts in it, but I was able to spend some time working on the car yesterday. Few more questions:



After you clay, you're supposed to re-wash the car with ONR or whatever you use, right?



Doing underneath the sides of the car gets my sponge way too dirty. I've got a fender well brush, it's this one: Click. Can I use that on the paint also? It feels really soft to me. The description on that page says safe for wheels. Would that mean it's probably safe for paint also? I hate saying probably though. I'd rather just know. Is there a test I can do?



I'm cleaning the little yellow applicators I got for the AIO, sealant, and tire dressing with Dawn, agitating with fingers, and rinsing out real good. Do I need to clean all my brushes also? Right now, I'm just spraying them with a regular garden hose. Is that good enough?
 
levander said:
I've probably already ruined this thread with my huge posts in it..



No, no....don't worry about that.



... I was able to spend some time working on the car yesterday. Few more questions:



After you clay, you're supposed to re-wash the car with ONR or whatever you use, right?



I would. I'd be concerned that the clay/lube residue won't just wipe off cleanly.



Doing underneath the sides of the car gets my sponge way too dirty. I've got a fender well brush, it's this one: Click. Can I use that on the paint also? It feels really soft to me. The description on that page says safe for wheels. Would that mean it's probably safe for paint also? I hate saying probably though. I'd rather just know. Is there a test I can do?



Brushes like that generally cause some light marring *IME, but depending on the area, and how aggressively you use it, it might not be all that bad.



Note that the finish on wheels is usually a bit tougher than the paint on the body of the car, and people often aren't as particular about it either.



I CD-test wash media (wet with shampoo solution).



FWIW, I use BHBs and/or MFs for jobs like that. And once I get them clean/polished/LSPed I make sure they never get really nasty again ;)




I'm cleaning the little yellow applicators I got for the AIO, sealant, and tire dressing with Dawn, agitating with fingers, and rinsing out real good. Do I need to clean all my brushes also? Right now, I'm just spraying them with a regular garden hose. Is that good enough?



Brushes usually rinse clean pretty well with no really special treatment. Inspect them and you'll probably decide they're OK.



Little research I did, don't think it's etching. I need to post pics. Maybe I'll get to that today.



Yeah, a pic would be helpful.
 
About that fender well brush, I'm taking a break from having to scrub down one of the wheels now... I just looked at the fender well brush, it's all "gummy" on one half of the bristles... Don't remember it being like that yesterday. I may have done something today? Or, maybe some stuff dried on it last night? I was working on the wheels yesterday too (I'm taking them off, one by one).



Probably not a good idea to use that one the paint, even if most of it is on the underside. I'm considering buying a new fenderwell brush too. Even though I've only used it maybe five times, that brush don't look good. Wonder what I could have done? Maybe I'll try soaking it in Dawn or something. I don't know.



I'm going to take advantage of the free shipping w/ $75 order at Autogeek this weekend. Anybody know a good cheap brush to use to do under the sides of your car? I've been buying the red Mothers brushes just because their cheap. But, if necessary, I could spend more.



Current philosophy is getting good chemical, but skimping on the MF's and brushes. Been getting Vroom MF's and Mothers brushes.
 
levander said:
Anybody know a good cheap brush to use to do under the sides of your car?



Think I'm just going to use this one. It just for the underside of the car (I think they call that the under-carriage?), so don't need an expensive one:



Laitner Grip-It Fender & Body Brush, Car Wash Brush, Exterior Detail Brush, Shampoo Brush



Also, tire dressing. I'm using Opti-bond Tire Gel. How far down the edges should you go back? I do the sidewall. Then, I'm doing like 2/3rds of the way back from the sidewalls towards the back of the tire. How far back do most people go?
 
levander said:
Think I'm just going to use this one. It just for the underside of the car (I think they call that the under-carriage?)..



You must've gotten something goopy on your first brush; one of the downsides of synthetic bristles (as opposed to boar's hair) is that they can be hard to clean. Try an APC or Simple Green/etc. Maybe try soaking it in a bucket of APC mix.



Nothing wrong with having lots of brushes :D




Current philosophy is getting good chemical, but skimping on the MF's and brushes. Been getting Vroom MF's and Mothers brushes.



Noting that I don't tend to skimp on much of anything :o ...I wouldn't skimp on materials that actually touch the vehicle (possible exception being the undercarriage brush...Walmart has one like that very cheap). But there's no point in spending money that doesn't result in any benefit either.



Also, tire dressing. I'm using Opti-bond Tire Gel. How far down the edges should you go back? I do the sidewall. Then, I'm doing like 2/3rds of the way back from the sidewalls towards the back of the tire. How far back do most people go?



Don't put it on the tread surface, "where the rubber meets the road". Put it everywhere else that you can see. I'd think of that as being only the sidewall. Wipe off any excess so you don't get sling everywhere.
 
Accumulator said:
Don't put it on the tread surface, "where the rubber meets the road". Put it everywhere else that you can see. I'd think of that as being only the sidewall. Wipe off any excess so you don't get sling everywhere.



Well, it's too late for that. I'll just be careful driving it till the Tire Gel wears off.
 
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