let's talk oil

I had a bad experience with conventional Quaker State oil in the late '70's. Seems they forgot to add some viscosity agents in their oil for cold weather. Living at home at the time in Northeast Wisconsin , we had 3 cars that had this oil in them and one early-January winter when it was -20°F NONE of them would turn over. I took the drain plug out of my parent's 1974 Ford LTD Country Squire station wagon (400 C.I. V8) and it would not even drip. I took a screw driver, stuck it in the oil pan drain hole, and it was like a light grease. I ended up placing a Redi space heater under the oil pan for about a half-an-hour to heat up the oil so the engine could turn over to start and heat up the oil so it could be drained and changed. I literally froze my hands when I got oil on them, and boy, did that hurt when they "thawed out". It's like slamming your hand in a door, it stung/ached/hurt that much. The oil was later recalled by Quaker State after receiving many similar complaints and subsequent engine damage lawsuits. We never were reimbursed by QS nor could we exchange the oil for that which was kosher, as the oil cans (metal cans that required a piercing drain spout, not self-pouring plastic bottles) and box with the production code (days before UPC Bar Codes) had been discarded.
We continued to use Quaker State and it was great oil , except for this isolated incident.

I started using Mobil I when it first came out in 1980-81. It was great for my 1977 Mercury Monarch with a 302 C.I. V-8 that sat outside in the winter. It always started and turned over MUCH faster than when it had conventional oil in it. This was when 10W-40 was recommended. I had used conventional 5W-20 oil in the winter because when its -25°F with wind chill indexes in the -40° to -50°F range, cars do not turn over easily or fast enough to draw gas through the carburetor (before fuel injection). I used to take my battery out in the evening and bring it in the warm basement and re-installed it in the very cold morning to make sure the Monarch would start so I could get to work in Green Bay. While Mobil 1 was about $2 per quart when it came out, conventional oil was about $0.80 a quart, so you can see the price difference was quite drastic in those days.

Cold weather starting is the major reason I still use Mobil 1oil in vehicles. The price difference is still about the same and there have been quite a few debates/discussions/studies about the economic sensibility of this cost difference and the advantage of using conventional oil versus synthetic oil. You can decide for yourself. I do change my oil at 7,500 mile intervals or every 8 months. I use factory oil filters or Bosch extended- life filters. (2003 Subaru Outback with 168,000 miles and now a 2006 Ford Freestyle with 50,000 miles we bought from my Mom; sold my wife's 2000 Nissan Maxima to her sister with 113,000 miles on it when we bought the Freestyle) After reading on the internet about all kinds of horror stories about the cheaper low-end Fram Filters, I would not use them. (Do you believe everything you read on the internet??)

Let's just put it this way: when Chevy Corvettes and Porsche 911's come with Mobil 1 in their engines from the factory, I think that's a pretty good endorsement for a motor oil to use in one's own vehicle.
 
I remember I used to work at Arco when the oil with graphite came out

went in black, came out black
 
I had a bad experience with conventional Quaker State oil in the late '70's. Seems they forgot to add some viscosity agents in their oil for cold weather. Living at home at the time in Northeast Wisconsin , we had 3 cars that had this oil in them and one early-January winter when it was -20°F NONE of them would turn over. I took the drain plug out of my parent's 1974 Ford LTD Country Squire station wagon (400 C.I. V8)

I think I recall reading an incident about something similar. This situation forced API to not only measure pour point but pumpability at low temps - just because it may flow it does mean it can move through a oil pump.
 
OK, I gotta ask- in the absence of something weird going on, why change out a long-life synthetic at 3-4K?

I change mine at 10k. I also send out samples to Blackstone for analysis but not all the time. I run AMSOIL in not only our vehicles but other family members. Two vehicles are 15 years old, one has 203,000 miles and another has 140,000 miles. My truck is 9 years old with 128,000 miles. The only oil leak was the first vehicle and that leak was at the CAM cover seal.
 
OK, I gotta ask- in the absence of something weird going on, why change out a long-life synthetic at 3-4K?

The same reason we keep adding wax a sealants every month. :crazy2:

My reasoning is basically peace of mind. A friend owns a cylinder head machine shop and seeing the crud that comes through his door has always had me change sooner than later out of habit.

I realize it is probably overkill, but my vehicles see some weird weather and driving situations that it makes me feel better knowing the oil is changed regularly. Mobil 1 @ Walmart is about $25 for 5 quarts and a good filter is $6-8, so for about $35 I can do my own synthetic oil change and do it right. (prefill the filter and hit all the grease zerks, etc.)

My 1995 Impala SS used to see some heavy road course / autocross duty and with the six speed manual it would spend a lot of the day over 4k rpm. BIR is a 3.1 mile road course with a mile long straight and the car would be wound tight for 10 laps at a time. I drive this car very hard and it currently sits with 199,500 miles on the stock engine (except for bolt ons, but never had a valve cover off).

Our 2001 Regal GS has 269k miles and still runs like a top. I don't drive it too hard, but my wife does! :lol:

Our Z71 doesn't see a lot of use, but is usually out in the winter for snowmobiling trips and often sits for a long time between uses and oil changes.

My daily driver Taurtus gets whatever name brand oil and good filter about 3-5k depending on when I have time and can squeeze it in.

With the Minnesota weather extremes of -20* (or more) in the winter to 90* in the summer, it helps me sleep better knowing that I have quality oil and filters. I also have a hectic schedule and sometimes will go longer on my intervals if I don't get to it in the 3-4k that I shoot for so if it happens to be 5k when I change I don't really sweat it. If I was a car flipper it might not bother me, but I seem to keep things forever. :dunno:

Randy
 
In my high performance LS engines I run Rotella 15w40.

Here's why. ZINC content. Zinc is what keeps your bearings alive. While Mobile 1 is OK its not great for modified cars. Mainly due to manufacturers decreasing the zinc content for emissions reasons. Valvoline VR 1 is good stuff too. When I bought all of my recent cam upgrades my LS guy made it a point to tell me to switch to VR1, Rotella or a like. He sees a lot of lifter failures from the newer oils on low mileage cars. And I have personally had it happen in one of my own that had Mobile from the factory. Replaced the lifters and switched to Rotella and never had another issue. I would use the VR1 but its tough to come by on the shelf around me.
 
Ah, sounds like plentyof people here *don't* change out the synthetic all that early after all. And "early" is kinda vague/relative anyhow, huh?

ZimRandy- Heh heh, but *I* don't rewax until I need to, often do my FK1000P only once a year! Heh heh...yeah, more of my Autopian Heresy, huh?!? I pretty much don't do *anything* until it needs it, just too many things on my plate..hard enough to keep up with the essentials.

I do wonder what a used-oil analysis would say about your applications, but I can understand your wanting to pamper that b-dy (love those, though I was a 9C1 guy, and '95 is my favorite year too).

Hey, you wanna buy my T-84 headlights? Had to ask...

And yeah, I too keep my stuff forever, might *never* replace any of my current vehicles! Very different from a while back when I bought/sold all the time, live and learn.

Thanks for answering my Q. We might not change our ways, but I find it interesting to discuss.

Swanicyouth- Heh heh heh..."cat-sized brain"!! That's good...

Same thing, I wonder what an oil analysis would say. With the 4.6 in my Crown Vic, it turns out that the *most* contamination happens right after an oil change, so there's a good argument that changing more often than necessary can increase wear. Might be a weird one-off situation, but it got me thinking.

On OE oil filters, GM recently changed the one for my Tahoe's 5.7, making it smaller, and people give good arguments for why it's no longer a smart choice. I haven't really looked into it (too busy posting to Autopia).
 
ZimRandy- Heh heh, but *I* don't rewax until I need to, often do my FK1000P only once a year! Heh heh...yeah, more of my Autopian Heresy, huh?!? I pretty much don't do *anything* until it needs it, just too many things on my plate..hard enough to keep up with the essentials.

I do wonder what a used-oil analysis would say about your applications, but I can understand your wanting to pamper that b-dy (love those, though I was a 9C1 guy, and '95 is my favorite year too).

Hey, you wanna buy my T-84 headlights? Had to ask...

And yeah, I too keep my stuff forever, might *never* replace any of my current vehicles! Very different from a while back when I bought/sold all the time, live and learn.

Thanks for answering my Q. We might not change our ways, but I find it interesting to discuss.

I don't have any scientific data to justify why I do what I do, but keep thinking an oil analysis would be interesting. It is like seeing a clean car.....I like to see clean oil when I check the dipstick. :lol:

I'd love a set of T-84's! :bow Unfortunately, I doubt you have any interest in a kidney or right arm......:rofl I despise the stock lights and even tried to convince a manufacturer at SEMA to make a new capsule that worked and was reasonably priced, but he didn't think there was a market for them. (I used to have a full set of ROH wheels in 9.5" and some new LT4 composite valve covers, but sold them as they were just collecting dust)

I wish I would've started collecting more odd parts and NOS stuff back when I got the car. :wall My 9 year old son has already asked if he could have the car when he grows up, so I have a feeling it will be around for awhile.:cool:

Randy
 
ZimRandy- Well, if you *do* sell a bodypart or something, remember those T-84s. They're brand new in the GM boxes too! Oh, and while I'm thinking of it, I have a set of FSM for the '95 b-bodies too. I've (begrudgingly) switched to Crown Vics so I won't be needing my b-body stuff.

Oh, and I hear you on that "clean oil on the dipstick"...the stuff in the S8 is so clean it can be hard to see it some times.
 
I now run Rotella in my OPE. It is cheaper than SAE 30 oil (mostly available by the quote) and better.
 
Ten years ago, I'd have said syn oil for street engines that rarely see 3000 RPM was mostly hype and owner vanity, but now that the properties of syn oil have been incorporated into the engineering of many engines, so I won't use anything else. But I'm still not convinced that even high quality filters can protect engines for more than 5K miles, but OTOH oil-related engine issues have been pretty rare since the 80s. You don't see blue smoke much anymore, even in beaters.
 
Had been running the previous Penzoil Ultra Sn after buying nine 5 quart jugs on clearance. With five cars, it is used quicker then I thought. Next oil change for three will with be with Amsoil SS 5W20 and the Mustang (655 whp) will get 10W30. Old Windstar minivan (209,500 miles) uses Valvoline HM 5W30. MC and FRPP oil filters (prefer threaded bypass over dome bypass).
 
I run 0w-40 Mobil 1 with a royal purple filter. I also change it at a little less than 3k which equates out to about once every six months for me.
 
Back
Top