Let wax dry longer = better results?

D

danforz

New member
Hey guys, I've read here and there that the longer you leave a wax to dry/haze (or is it cure?), the better the shine afterwards. Is this true?
 
When I wax my truck I typically wax it at night under the flourescent lights in my workshop/garage and let it dry overnight. I remove the wax the next morning/afternoon. Works well for me.
 
Beefhouse said:
When I wax my truck I typically wax it at night under the flourescent lights in my workshop/garage and let it dry overnight. I remove the wax the next morning/afternoon. Works well for me.
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And this has made a difference?
 
I'm not a professional; only an enthusiast. I can't prove or disprove that it makes a difference. I just like knowing the wax is completely dried and hazed when I go to remove it. I've been doing that for so long that I don't remember if I get any more life out of the wax.
 
Boy, I could see an argument for either way. If you buff it off right away, what's left is undisturbed to fully "cure", rather than buffing after it's completly dry when there's nothing left to "flow out". I don't think anyone has ever proposed an explanation for what is actually going on when you apply an LSP, how much is left, etc. My guess is that what is left on the surface is only what can be retained by molecular attraction, so I'm not sure if it really matters how long you leave it.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Boy, I could see an argument for either way. If you buff it off right away, what's left is undisturbed to fully "cure", rather than buffing after it's completly dry when there's nothing left to "flow out". I don't think anyone has ever proposed an explanation for what is actually going on when you apply an LSP, how much is left, etc. My guess is that what is left on the surface is only what can be retained by molecular attraction, so I'm not sure if it really matters how long you leave it.
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If what is left is what can be retained, can more thus be retained by allowing greater time for retainment?
 
Most waxes I've used suggest to buff off before it has completely dried. This would also go inline with warnings not to apply wax in the sun, or to let sit in the sun.
 
Danforz said:
If what is left is what can be retained, can more thus be retained by allowing greater time for retainment?
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Um...no, what I'm talking about would be molecular attraction between the car surface and the wax, you can't change that unless you add more molecules to the paint. It's kind of like if you sprayed water on the side of your house, you will get drops, and if the drops get big enough they will run off, there's nothing you can do to make bigger drops stay on there...it has to do with the surface tension of water, etc.



(Don't start on me, guys, about changing the surface properties of the house to change the beading size :D)
 
Setec Astronomy said:
(Don't start on me, guys, about changing the surface properties of the house to change the beading size :D)
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By surface properties of my house, do you mean square footage? If I wax my car in my own driveway (house = 3,000 Sq. Ft. + garage = 1,080 Sq. Ft.), do you think I get bigger beads than if I had used my friend's condo (1,250 Sq.Ft.) carport?:idea
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Um...no, what I'm talking about would be molecular attraction between the car surface and the wax, you can't change that unless you add more molecules to the paint. It's kind of like if you sprayed water on the side of your house, you will get drops, and if the drops get big enough they will run off, there's nothing you can do to make bigger drops stay on there...it has to do with the surface tension of water, etc.



(Don't start on me, guys, about changing the surface properties of the house to change the beading size :D)
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And what I'm putting forth, is could it be possible that all the available bonds that ultimately could occur, would occur only when an elongated period has passed?
 
Your guess is as good as mine. As I indicated before, I don't think anyone has put forth a comprehensive scientific principle as to what is going on with an LSP layer and how thick it is.
 
First, I would say it depends on the product. With some sealants it's suggested to leave it on the paint for an hour or so before removing. Other waxes say remove as soon as it dries. With the exception of those sealants, I would leave the haze of waxes on the surface until it dries off. You can do the swipe test, where you take finger and swipe the haze on the paint. If the haze is removed easily, then you can remove the haze on the rest of the car.
 
I just follows manufactures directions. If they say I can let it haze, I will. If it says to WOWO method, I will. Simple as that. Personally I have no experience or scientific fact of it letting it sit long presumes a better look.
 
I had been using W-O-W-O with Souveran for years, in part because that's what the instructions say to do and also because somebody once said that "if you let it dry, you'll need a belt sander to get it off".



P21S is a W-O-W-O wax, but when somebody here (sorry, forget who it was) got called to the phone and let the wax dry completely, he liked the results *better* so he started *always* letting it flash off.



Also, people had been saying that they W-O-W-O waxes like Collinite 476S and Meg's #16 because it makes them easier to use :think: But I never had a problem using those waxes, and when I experimented with them, the W-O-W-O applications resulted in markedly decreased durability/longevity.



Somehow, I never reconciled the above-mentioned situations in my mind until I discussed it with Mike Phillips at Meguiar's. After going over this topic with their lab guys, Mike told me that he'd *stopped* using W-O-W-O with products like this and challenged me to experiment with the Souveran for myself. I did that, and found that a) a properly thin application of Souveran wiped off easily after as long as an hour b) an area waxed in this manner stayed slick/beading longer than an area were I did W-O-W-O. I didn't notice any appearance differences, however.



So I quit using W-O-W-O with all my LSPs *on paint and chrome*. I still use W-O-W-O on outside-the-box applications like exterior vinyl/rubber/etc. because I often get streaking if I let it flash off before buffing. But on paint, I've let 476S sit for days before buffing it off, and there wasn't any problem. But OTOH, I missed buffing off a spot of #16 on the roof of my wife's A8, and after two weeks (including time in the hot Dixie sun), it was a *bear* to get off even with plenty of QD...so I wouldn't carry this to extremes with paste waxes the way you can with KSG and some other sealants.
 
I agree. Why not let it haze over. If applied correctly it is just as easy to remove.



Accumulator said:
I had been using W-O-W-O with Souveran for years, in part because that's what the instructions say to do and also because somebody once said that "if you let it dry, you'll need a belt sander to get it off".



P21S is a W-O-W-O wax, but when somebody here (sorry, forget who it was) got called to the phone and let the wax dry completely, he liked the results *better* so he started *always* letting it flash off.



Also, people had been saying that they W-O-W-O waxes like Collinite 476S and Meg's #16 because it makes them easier to use :think: But I never had a problem using those waxes, and when I experimented with them, the W-O-W-O applications resulted in markedly decreased durability/longevity.



Somehow, I never reconciled the above-mentioned situations in my mind until I discussed it with Mike Phillips at Meguiar's. After going over this topic with their lab guys, Mike told me that he'd *stopped* using W-O-W-O with products like this and challenged me to experiment with the Souveran for myself. I did that, and found that a) a properly thin application of Souveran wiped off easily after as long as an hour b) an area waxed in this manner stayed slick/beading longer than an area were I did W-O-W-O. I didn't notice any appearance differences, however.



So I quit using W-O-W-O with all my LSPs *on paint and chrome*. I still use W-O-W-O on outside-the-box applications like exterior vinyl/rubber/etc. because I often get streaking if I let it flash off before buffing. But on paint, I've let 476S sit for days before buffing it off, and there wasn't any problem. But OTOH, I missed buffing off a spot of #16 on the roof of my wife's A8, and after two weeks (including time in the hot Dixie sun), it was a *bear* to get off even with plenty of QD...so I wouldn't carry this to extremes with paste waxes the way you can with KSG and some other sealants.
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Accumulator said:
I had been using W-O-W-O with Souveran for years, in part because that's what the instructions say to do and also because somebody once said that "if you let it dry, you'll need a belt sander to get it off".



P21S is a W-O-W-O wax, but when somebody here (sorry, forget who it was) got called to the phone and let the wax dry completely, he liked the results *better* so he started *always* letting it flash off.



Also, people had been saying that they W-O-W-O waxes like Collinite 476S and Meg's #16 because it makes them easier to use :think: But I never had a problem using those waxes, and when I experimented with them, the W-O-W-O applications resulted in markedly decreased durability/longevity.



Somehow, I never reconciled the above-mentioned situations in my mind until I discussed it with Mike Phillips at Meguiar's. After going over this topic with their lab guys, Mike told me that he'd *stopped* using W-O-W-O with products like this and challenged me to experiment with the Souveran for myself. I did that, and found that a) a properly thin application of Souveran wiped off easily after as long as an hour b) an area waxed in this manner stayed slick/beading longer than an area were I did W-O-W-O. I didn't notice any appearance differences, however.



So I quit using W-O-W-O with all my LSPs *on paint and chrome*. I still use W-O-W-O on outside-the-box applications like exterior vinyl/rubber/etc. because I often get streaking if I let it flash off before buffing. But on paint, I've let 476S sit for days before buffing it off, and there wasn't any problem. But OTOH, I missed buffing off a spot of #16 on the roof of my wife's A8, and after two weeks (including time in the hot Dixie sun), it was a *bear* to get off even with plenty of QD...so I wouldn't carry this to extremes with paste waxes the way you can with KSG and some other sealants.
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Thank you for the post Accum... I plan on leaving the wax on over night, washing, and then buffing off the residue.
 
I don't think it makes a difference. Since waxes don't crosslink I don't think there is anything to gain by waiting. As for selants it might make a difference if you allow the product to fully cure before wiping the haze off.
 
I think the concern with removing waxes too early is that the wax doesn't have a chance to bond to surface yet. When you remove too soon, you end up with a hazy finish and a layer of wax that is being pushed around with the MF towel. With waxes, like I said earlier, I think that letting it dry properly will definitely help maximize durability.
 
waxes don't bond to the surface. They sit on the surface. i don't believe there is anything to gain once the solvents have flashed off.
 
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