Let`s Experiment on a 1985 Jeep - Parked for 14 Years

A

asudchiman

New member
I will be picking up a tired old 1985 Jeep Grand Wagoneer and I hope to bring it back to life.
My assumption is it will require paint, but I thought it would be a good time to experiment on cleaners, compounds, etc. to see what might actually work.

So, what do you suggest? What are your go-to products if you were facing a beast like this one?

Thanks in advance for the ideas. Again, I am just looking to experiment and looking for ideas. Even if they sound crazy.
For example, one guy wants me to clean the engine with dollar store oven cleaner. I know it cleans parts well, so why not give it a try. (I also know it strips paint too).

What do you suggest?

Here are a few photos:
attachment.php
attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • 85Wagoneer-4698.jpg
    85Wagoneer-4698.jpg
    328.4 KB · Views: 165
  • 85Wagoneer-4707.jpg
    85Wagoneer-4707.jpg
    340.6 KB · Views: 163
Asudchiman -- I replied back on the Meguiars Super Degreaser Post you commented on...
I remember those Jeeps from back then! Loved the look!
The side panels wood grain may not have survived, be careful there, and of course, if you are restoring, then dont worry..
For sure that product will get a lot of everything if not everything off and you can see what you have to work with..
Good luck !
Dan F
 
This is a cool find and project. Good luck. If I keep my 95 f-150 pickup, I’ll have to do the same thing. I would definitely go Old school on it. Whatever compound and such from back then.
 
asudchiman said:
I will be picking up a tired old 1985 Jeep Grand Wagoneer and I hope to bring it back to life.
My assumption is it will require paint, but I thought it would be a good time to experiment on cleaners, compounds, etc. to see what might actually work...
Click to expand...

Welcome to Autopia!

Yeah, that`ll require paint and something for the trashed "wood" trim, but you could do a lot of good first and if nothing else I bet that`ll teach you whether it`s really a project you`ll want to tackle. AND you`ll get a much better idea of it`s true condition once you`ve gone over every inch of it, cleaning away all the [stuff] that obscures what needs inspected.

First, I`d do a thorough degreasing of the whole vehicle including the engine compartment and undercarriage. Some areas might need things like putty knives or at least plastic razor blades. Just get all the "thickest of the crap" off.

Then I`d do a Chemical Decontamination with the most potent stuff currently available. I would not do an off-label job with stuff not made for this kind of thing, but that`s just me.

THEN you should be able to gauge its condition well enough to see what the next step oughta be.

Just get it as clean and decontaminated as you can.

If that exposes structural rust, I`d just write it off. If not, I`d first see what the major mechanical needs are.
 
I`ve seen some awesome looking garage paint jobs with a spray gun and Rust-Oleum enamel.
 
The only time I would consider using Dawn would be on something like this. Dawn could cut through some of the gunk. The seals are already dried out so no harm done. Magic Eraser time too. Maybe a Brillo Pad here and there also.
 
I`d be pretty surprised if Dawn were potent enough for this one. I don`t hate on it the way some do (and I`ve sure never had it dry out rubber/etc.), but it`s really awfully mild IMO, at least compared to stuff like "A" (let alone the old FK1119; I`d reach into my stash of that stuff for a job like this).

I wouldn`t use something that "strips paint", plenty of effective products that don`t do that.

That`s single-stage, right? I wouldn`t do the Billo Pad thing, I`d actually see what happens with proper products. And I wouldn`t do a Rustoleum paintjob either, if doing that kind of work I`d at least use something from KBS.

What`s the actual goal here? Make it usable or just play around with stuff and see what happens or something in-between?
 
I had one.
Let`s see.. that will have thin single stage which will shed tons of oxidized paint residue during compounding and polishing, after a decon. Probably should not use the polishing pads on any other vehicle if you machine polish, due to contamination from surface rust. The stainless trim around the glass will polish up nicely. The bumpers might be some sort of cast aluminium or almost a lightweight "pot metal" and I remember that they were challenging to make look nice. The grill is plated plastic, which will take great deal of time to polish with cleaner wax or Autosol Plastic Chrome Polish M1#1020. The inner fender lips and area just behind the rear tires (lip up under the rear rocker) collect more mud than some vehicles, and will probably need serious cleaning. I perceived the body panels on mine as having a thicker gauge metal than other trucks from that era. Don`t clean any interior lettering (turn signal stalks, etc.) with anything but water, as cleaners can wipe the letters right off. This is one vehicle though, which will need and will look nice with some Lexol or 303 on the dash, door panels, etc. Check up on the seals or "felts" or whatever around the rear glass. Mine was scratched from may years of automatic retractions into the tailgate.
These were pretty tough old vehicles - good luck!
 
love these rigs. About 10 years ago I was looking to get one, but they were all a little rough, a few of them under $1000 though. In hindsight....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top