Leather Products - Bottle or Sprayer
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judyb
New member
It is our own range of product that has been put together from many different sources and not just produced by one factory. We use the best products there are for the job they are required to do and as we test products on a very regular basis we are able to provide the best ones to our consumer and technical customers.
We always state that 'conditioning' products that contain oils and waxes and leave residues on the surface attract more dirt and oils which over time will do the damage. The dirt and abrasion does the damage but this is not helped by products that leave residues.
Unfortunately a lot of product manufacturers have sold products that have no benefit for a long time both in the furniture and auto business. Big money has been made. We just try to supply products that have been tested to benefit the leather and simplify the cleaning process.
Hope this clarifies.
We always state that 'conditioning' products that contain oils and waxes and leave residues on the surface attract more dirt and oils which over time will do the damage. The dirt and abrasion does the damage but this is not helped by products that leave residues.
Unfortunately a lot of product manufacturers have sold products that have no benefit for a long time both in the furniture and auto business. Big money has been made. We just try to supply products that have been tested to benefit the leather and simplify the cleaning process.
Hope this clarifies.
stiffdogg06
New member
I'll stick with my Leatherique products. Used them on a lot of leather over a year now and haven't had any problems. All the people I see that use Leatherique have great results. I stick with what works.
judyb
New member
Too much like hard work!!!!! and it still doesn't protect the leather. How does the product get through the finish on the leather to do what it claims to do?
judyb said:
Not trying to stir the pot but you sure make what seems like factual statements but yet when asked what products you recommended you seem to have a an issue with providing that information. Why bother giving generic advice when you aren't helping others clean and protect their leather.
Judy -
Welcome to the board. We appreciate having experts of all genre's here.
Please continue to share you knowledge and insight. I hope you stay onboard and continue to share your insight. BTW, what would you recommend for alcantara fabric .
Runnerbl, etc....there is a fine line that vendors, manufac, try to abide by
before violating the boards TOS. That is why I believe she is not publicly stating what she recommends...
Welcome to the board. We appreciate having experts of all genre's here.
Please continue to share you knowledge and insight. I hope you stay onboard and continue to share your insight. BTW, what would you recommend for alcantara fabric .
Runnerbl, etc....there is a fine line that vendors, manufac, try to abide by
before violating the boards TOS. That is why I believe she is not publicly stating what she recommends...
Judy is awesome and she's helped me a great deal just recently. She took the time to explain to me what my problem was in this thread:
http://autopia.org/forum/profession...leather-seat-shows-white-after-treatment.html
I was able to get rid of the problem using her suggestions (cleaned it with LM strong cleaner, brushed out the excess residuals and wiped off with paper-towel (not MF towel) then re-protect).
Thank you, Judy. You're awesome!
http://autopia.org/forum/profession...leather-seat-shows-white-after-treatment.html
I was able to get rid of the problem using her suggestions (cleaned it with LM strong cleaner, brushed out the excess residuals and wiped off with paper-towel (not MF towel) then re-protect).
Thank you, Judy. You're awesome!
judyb
New member
There is a very fine line and I do not always come out with outright product recommendations as then I am accused of selling and advertising. If any of you want individual recommendations for product then I am glad to help on PM's. If you ask direct questions on here I may be granted the freedom to post but I do not want to overstep the mark. I try to give as much technical support as I can.
Regards
Judy
Regards
Judy
chefwong said:
Recommending what cleans and protects leather is not a TOS violation IMO. There are plenty of people on here that recommend CG but CG is not a vendor. I have a hard time believing that what she sells is the only thing on the market that cleans and protects leather. If that is the case then she should have the market cornered as all other products are inferior. I'm not asking for promotion of her products, I am asking what she finds that works. Now, if she is claiming that her company sells the only products that truly work and all others are harming leather then that's where I and many others would call foul. No product is the end all be all. Others out there perform just as well if not better. I am only asking for an honest opinion on products that are available for all to purchase without promoting here store. As I said before, there are plenty of people on here that rant and rave about products that aren't carried by the sponsors. As a matter of fact, I purchase from prior sponsors that find a rather hefty $$$$ figure a month to be a sponsor a little extreme. Definitely not for the little guy to afford. Luckily we are granted the privilege to discuss these other non-sponsors.
Accumulator
Well-known member
runnerbl said:
judyb said:
It appears that judyb recommends Leather Master, which is, IIRC, available at TOL.
If I've somehow misinterpreted things (i.e, that "LM" = Leather Master), the somebody please correct me.
jayjacque
You WILL like my work!
detail doc - lttsolutions.net
stiffdogg - my point exactly!
stiffdogg - my point exactly!
judyb
New member
Leather Master (Scandinavia) Leather Master (Dr Tork) Fenice and LTT products all work following the same principles. LM and Fenice were the best products for protection about 5 years ago but there are now stronger protectors available as development has been done.
LTT Ultra Protect is the product with the most protective value on the market (tested)
LTT Ultra Protect is the product with the most protective value on the market (tested)
There have been rare cases where certain spots on say a BMW 'armrest' have been removed by leatherique. But 99.9% of the time it is safe.
The leatherique isn't the problem here,.. it is the armrest in this case. It is faulty in some manner. Dye not properly applied, mixing of chemicals, who knows.
I've tried a TON of products on many cars,.. Leatherique, while pricey, and somewhat odd in that you clean after you condition,.. works, hands down, the best.
This is my tip(s).
Clean the leather before you apply any of the leatherique products. Use a woolight dillution, or simply soap and water,.. or just water and a rag. Get any thick residue off the seats, any oils off the seats/armrest etc.
Let that dry/wipe dry.
Then -- Apply the Leatherique Oil. Apply it with an applicator, (on the applicator) do not spray is or squeeze it out on the leather. You don'to want concentrated areas of it.. you want even layers.
Once you get the oil spread over all the leather to your satisfaction -- (Don't use MORE in hopes of better absorption, just use a little bit). Turn your heat on 80 Degree's.. and close the car. Leave it for 30minutes or so.
Open it up, turn off the heat.. and wipe the oil off with a dry Microfiber.
Then apply the Cleaner with a different applicator, evenly. Use the brush over all the seats, don't scrub as hard as you can.. but a little scrubbing isn't going to hurt. This loosens the oils, and dirts pulled up from the previous application and the cleaner. Wipe this dry.
Check it out, if it looks good, your done. If not, repeat from the start again.. (remember you are using a LITTLE amount/small amount.. So repeat application isn't a problem).
Also, don't go putting on the leatherique oil.. then putting on saran wrap over it (like I've heard people doing) for days on end. This is silly, inpractical and does no good. It wasn't designed to sit like that. Also don't let it sit all day long on the seats,.. 30minute is more than enough time for absorption.
You see, the key , imho, is regular application. You can't always get things 'perfect' or where you want them in one quick blow. If you apply it and it is better but not 'perfect'. Don't worry -- Wait a day, or a week. Redo it. Keep on doing it every week for a month, or two. It will get better every week.
Then once at a level of your acceptance, maintain it by at least monthly application.
Leatherique is expensive stuff. More is not better,.. It does absorb unlike some claim it doesn't -- But it isn't going in like a sponge on many leathers. It takes heat and *some* time , but not an extravangent amount of time. Given this smaller amounts, applied more frequently, again, produce better overall results.
If you have any problems with dye removal and so on, or discoloration it is due to inproper application, which falls into using too much product, scrubbing too hard, leaving it on too long, and so forth. -- It is also due, more often imo, to a problem from the factory. As some people will have certain small sections of a leather console in their car seemingly get destroyed (dye wipes off) while the rest of the car does wonderful. Is that the leatherique? No, use logic. It is a console that is improperly protected.. (I am no expert on dyeing and leathering vehicles, but I know a specific problem when I see it). If it damaged all the leather in an equal fashion, sure its the product --
I can see some leather not withstanding some products, it happens.
Which is why with any cleaner/conditioner product they say test on an inconspicous spot before applying elsewhere. With all the various kinds of cars, leathers, seals, processes it is impossible to predict and test them all. But for the majority things are fine.
I know that is redundant,.. but I have been reading some horror stories on leatherique and the people are blaming the product when that is just rediculous. I can understand their frustration, and the conclusion, but from an outsiders point of view it is just a wrong conclusion.
Given all of that -- There are still wonderful leather cleaners, and conditioners that aren't as expensive as leatherique -- Leatherique is about the most expensive on the market.. of course not quite, but in the top 3-5 easily. It is for the name, and the quality. Obviously it doesn't cost 45-50$ to make two bottles.
I've tried probably 15 different cleaners, and 2 dozen conditioners over my lifetime.. and have never turned back from switching to leatherique. Lexol was my choice years ago,.. but , obviously, that has changed
The main thing you want in the sun is protection -- So at least protect it. If you have some Aero 303 -- Use it on the leather! It is fine, it won't condition it, but it will protect it.
It even isn't a bad idea to put a light coat on over the leatherique process if you'd like a little more UV protection. Just depends on the conditions your car is commonly exposed to.
Lastly,.. everyone has their favorites and thats great! I was recommended Lexol by a professional in the leather industry -- He knows his stuff, but he doesn't know it all, nor do I. Just speak from experience. What I use is quite good enough for me, and if there is better I will eventually find it.
To releather a car it is still $1500 or so, .. it isn't as much as many people think.
*This is top quality leather, installed.. locally* -- You can get estimates for thousands from some places.. I have checked years back.
The leatherique isn't the problem here,.. it is the armrest in this case. It is faulty in some manner. Dye not properly applied, mixing of chemicals, who knows.
I've tried a TON of products on many cars,.. Leatherique, while pricey, and somewhat odd in that you clean after you condition,.. works, hands down, the best.
This is my tip(s).
Clean the leather before you apply any of the leatherique products. Use a woolight dillution, or simply soap and water,.. or just water and a rag. Get any thick residue off the seats, any oils off the seats/armrest etc.
Let that dry/wipe dry.
Then -- Apply the Leatherique Oil. Apply it with an applicator, (on the applicator) do not spray is or squeeze it out on the leather. You don'to want concentrated areas of it.. you want even layers.
Once you get the oil spread over all the leather to your satisfaction -- (Don't use MORE in hopes of better absorption, just use a little bit). Turn your heat on 80 Degree's.. and close the car. Leave it for 30minutes or so.
Open it up, turn off the heat.. and wipe the oil off with a dry Microfiber.
Then apply the Cleaner with a different applicator, evenly. Use the brush over all the seats, don't scrub as hard as you can.. but a little scrubbing isn't going to hurt. This loosens the oils, and dirts pulled up from the previous application and the cleaner. Wipe this dry.
Check it out, if it looks good, your done. If not, repeat from the start again.. (remember you are using a LITTLE amount/small amount.. So repeat application isn't a problem).
Also, don't go putting on the leatherique oil.. then putting on saran wrap over it (like I've heard people doing) for days on end. This is silly, inpractical and does no good. It wasn't designed to sit like that. Also don't let it sit all day long on the seats,.. 30minute is more than enough time for absorption.
You see, the key , imho, is regular application. You can't always get things 'perfect' or where you want them in one quick blow. If you apply it and it is better but not 'perfect'. Don't worry -- Wait a day, or a week. Redo it. Keep on doing it every week for a month, or two. It will get better every week.
Then once at a level of your acceptance, maintain it by at least monthly application.
Leatherique is expensive stuff. More is not better,.. It does absorb unlike some claim it doesn't -- But it isn't going in like a sponge on many leathers. It takes heat and *some* time , but not an extravangent amount of time. Given this smaller amounts, applied more frequently, again, produce better overall results.
If you have any problems with dye removal and so on, or discoloration it is due to inproper application, which falls into using too much product, scrubbing too hard, leaving it on too long, and so forth. -- It is also due, more often imo, to a problem from the factory. As some people will have certain small sections of a leather console in their car seemingly get destroyed (dye wipes off) while the rest of the car does wonderful. Is that the leatherique? No, use logic. It is a console that is improperly protected.. (I am no expert on dyeing and leathering vehicles, but I know a specific problem when I see it). If it damaged all the leather in an equal fashion, sure its the product --
I can see some leather not withstanding some products, it happens.
Which is why with any cleaner/conditioner product they say test on an inconspicous spot before applying elsewhere. With all the various kinds of cars, leathers, seals, processes it is impossible to predict and test them all. But for the majority things are fine.
I know that is redundant,.. but I have been reading some horror stories on leatherique and the people are blaming the product when that is just rediculous. I can understand their frustration, and the conclusion, but from an outsiders point of view it is just a wrong conclusion.
Given all of that -- There are still wonderful leather cleaners, and conditioners that aren't as expensive as leatherique -- Leatherique is about the most expensive on the market.. of course not quite, but in the top 3-5 easily. It is for the name, and the quality. Obviously it doesn't cost 45-50$ to make two bottles.
I've tried probably 15 different cleaners, and 2 dozen conditioners over my lifetime.. and have never turned back from switching to leatherique. Lexol was my choice years ago,.. but , obviously, that has changed
The main thing you want in the sun is protection -- So at least protect it. If you have some Aero 303 -- Use it on the leather! It is fine, it won't condition it, but it will protect it.
It even isn't a bad idea to put a light coat on over the leatherique process if you'd like a little more UV protection. Just depends on the conditions your car is commonly exposed to.
Lastly,.. everyone has their favorites and thats great! I was recommended Lexol by a professional in the leather industry -- He knows his stuff, but he doesn't know it all, nor do I. Just speak from experience. What I use is quite good enough for me, and if there is better I will eventually find it.
To releather a car it is still $1500 or so, .. it isn't as much as many people think.
*This is top quality leather, installed.. locally* -- You can get estimates for thousands from some places.. I have checked years back.
Somewhat OT.....and I've yet to fully research what the magic clean eraser properties are....but I have seen postings and click and brags on the magic clean eraser used on leather seats as well..
A quick google shows the magic clean eraser consists mainly of a formaldehyde-melamine-sodium bisulfite copolymer.
Pros/Industry Leather Techs - care to chime in ?
A quick google shows the magic clean eraser consists mainly of a formaldehyde-melamine-sodium bisulfite copolymer.
Pros/Industry Leather Techs - care to chime in ?
imported_Dave11
New member
judyb said:
Have you ever used Leatherique products before......?
If you haven't had the opportunity and your a "leather guy/girl", you might want to check them out and see first hand just how effective Leatherique can be......
jayjacque
You WILL like my work!
Thanks Neofate for the informative synopsis. If you're doing a one-shot leatherique job for somebody else's seats, do you still think leaving it on a short time with heat on will suffice? (rather than overnight)
About the 303, do you use it often for leather? Could you elaborate? Like I don't think it would help moisture-wise like conditioners, but you think it is a good protectant without any adverse effects?
About the 303, do you use it often for leather? Could you elaborate? Like I don't think it would help moisture-wise like conditioners, but you think it is a good protectant without any adverse effects?
jayjacque
You WILL like my work!
chefwong said:
I don't know yet. I just bought some the other day and plan on trying next job I get that fits the situation. Maybe today in fact - I've got some ink on a leather steering wheel; was gonna try it on just to see b4 I paint it like I usually do. You're right though, it's off subject for this thread so you might not get much other response on that question
judyb
New member
We have just tested Magic Sponges (sacrificial sponges) for someone over here in the UK. Whilst they have their place in the restoration of leather they should definitley not be used for general cleaning. We tested them on several different finishes including a car interior and found that they will remove the finish on the leather (they act like very fine sandpaper as they are made from a melamine resin). Unless you are refinishing the leather then do not use them.
We have listened to all the arguments about leatherique and cannot see any possible advantage. Oils cannot possibly get through the finished surface on leather (we have tried) no matter how long you leave them or how hot you get them so. Leather 'conditioning' can be done by the use of water based products (rehydration) for cleaning and protection and this can be done in a very short time. Heat helps the products to clean more effectively as in any situation but does not transform the leather in any way.
Hope this helps
Hairspray has been known to work on ink on leather but can also do a lot of further damage so should not really be used.
This is our consumer guide to removing ink.
Ink Removal
Removing ink from leather is not a cleaning problem.
Most ink removal products will not work simply because of the length of time the ink has been on the leather.
Ink is a dye and has re-coloured the leather (this is what it is meant to do)
The longer the ink has been on the leather the harder it is to remove because it soaks into the finish. Once it has soaked into the finish you have to use very strong products to remove it, which will also remove finish and pigment which then need replacing.
Pigment/Protected leather
If the ink is on a pigmented leather then the first thing you should try is an Ink Stick. The fresher the ink the more chance you have of removing it. It is a good idea to have one in your car if you have pale leather and children!!!!
Old ink will be harder to remove than new ink and may mean resorting to solvents which will also remove the finish. This is probably best left to the experts
If an ink stick doesn't work a solvent based remover will need to be used and it may also remove finish and pigment so is best left to the experts.
You should also be using Leather Protecter on your leather. This will act like a 'scotchgard' and will make any more mishaps easier to clean off.
You will see many people recommending household products to remove ink – this is not recommended as most simply will not work, some may appear to work but the damage they cause can make a much bigger problem which is then un-repairable (even by a technician)
DO NOT USE THE FOLLOWING:
Hairspray - This is very risky as it can make the matter far worse by spreading the ink over a bigger area and can sometimes then be impossible to fix.
Nail Varnish remover/solvents will remove the finish on the leather even if you cannot tell it is doing so and this will then need replacing, and alcohol may do the same depending on the strength of the finish on the leather.
Baby wipes – just about the worst thing you can use on a leather as they break down the finish and will eventually ruin it.
Milk or Toothpaste - these are just silly ideas that will leave sticky residues on the surface which will help to break down the finish on your leather.
Silicones/furniture polish – should not be used on leather. They will form a coating on the surface of the leather which will not allow any moisture to get to the leather itself and will eventually break all the finish down and cause it to crack.
Hide food will not remove ink and will leave residues on the leather which will attract dirt and oils.
Most leather cleaners will not remove ink unless a very good leather protector has been used on a regular basis.
Hope this helps too
We have listened to all the arguments about leatherique and cannot see any possible advantage. Oils cannot possibly get through the finished surface on leather (we have tried) no matter how long you leave them or how hot you get them so. Leather 'conditioning' can be done by the use of water based products (rehydration) for cleaning and protection and this can be done in a very short time. Heat helps the products to clean more effectively as in any situation but does not transform the leather in any way.
Hope this helps
Hairspray has been known to work on ink on leather but can also do a lot of further damage so should not really be used.
This is our consumer guide to removing ink.
Ink Removal
Removing ink from leather is not a cleaning problem.
Most ink removal products will not work simply because of the length of time the ink has been on the leather.
Ink is a dye and has re-coloured the leather (this is what it is meant to do)
The longer the ink has been on the leather the harder it is to remove because it soaks into the finish. Once it has soaked into the finish you have to use very strong products to remove it, which will also remove finish and pigment which then need replacing.
Pigment/Protected leather
If the ink is on a pigmented leather then the first thing you should try is an Ink Stick. The fresher the ink the more chance you have of removing it. It is a good idea to have one in your car if you have pale leather and children!!!!
Old ink will be harder to remove than new ink and may mean resorting to solvents which will also remove the finish. This is probably best left to the experts
If an ink stick doesn't work a solvent based remover will need to be used and it may also remove finish and pigment so is best left to the experts.
You should also be using Leather Protecter on your leather. This will act like a 'scotchgard' and will make any more mishaps easier to clean off.
You will see many people recommending household products to remove ink – this is not recommended as most simply will not work, some may appear to work but the damage they cause can make a much bigger problem which is then un-repairable (even by a technician)
DO NOT USE THE FOLLOWING:
Hairspray - This is very risky as it can make the matter far worse by spreading the ink over a bigger area and can sometimes then be impossible to fix.
Nail Varnish remover/solvents will remove the finish on the leather even if you cannot tell it is doing so and this will then need replacing, and alcohol may do the same depending on the strength of the finish on the leather.
Baby wipes – just about the worst thing you can use on a leather as they break down the finish and will eventually ruin it.
Milk or Toothpaste - these are just silly ideas that will leave sticky residues on the surface which will help to break down the finish on your leather.
Silicones/furniture polish – should not be used on leather. They will form a coating on the surface of the leather which will not allow any moisture to get to the leather itself and will eventually break all the finish down and cause it to crack.
Hide food will not remove ink and will leave residues on the leather which will attract dirt and oils.
Most leather cleaners will not remove ink unless a very good leather protector has been used on a regular basis.
Hope this helps too
Accumulator
Well-known member
judyb said:
If the oils can't penetrate to do any conditioning, how do the water based products to it? Is it because they're "thinner" or something like that? Please don't take this as a :argue as I'm just trying to figure this whole thing out
