learning to use my new rotary

Z

zannard

If I only had more time.
A few questions if you can help me out?

1. Do you find you use A LOT more product with a rotary?

2. If the buffer seems to jump around am I not using enough product for lubrication?

3. Do you apply medium pressure of the first pass or two then only use about the weight of the machine to finish?

4. I have the meguiar's video, but still trying to figure out how long is long enough to breakdown the product.

5. So far I have been practicing on an old hood, should I go ahead and try to burn it with the buffer in order to see what it takes to burn through paint? Maybe this will help me get an idea of how long to buff? Damn that paint get hot in a hurry though...lol.

I think I am going to love the results of the rotary. I love the results of the PC and it's safety, but sometimes it just doesn't cut it.

Thanks.
 
1. I tend to use a little more product with the rotary than with the PC. Not too much more though.
2. The hop may be from a number of things. Usually it is from the pad not being properly centered, it could also be from too large of pads without the proper experiance, the RPMs may be too low, the pad may not be properly prepped, lots of things.
3. Only on really bad areas do I apply extra pressure. Typically the weight of the machine, or the slightest bit more, is enough to get the job done. You'll develop the feel for it after a while.
4. The product is properly broken down when there is just a fine layer of polish left on the surface. If you can still see a noticable amount of polish keep going, if you get alot of dry dusting you've done enough.
5. Go ahead and try to burn one part of it so you'll know what it takes. Incude some holograms and practice taking them out with a lighter polish too. Induce some scratches into the hood with a key for the heck of if you want.
 
Just a few quick thoughts.
make sure you have the product around the outer 2/3 of the pad, that is don't fill the center of the pad which does not really spin fast or do any of the buffing. THe outer edge spins the fastest and does need to be lubricated especially if you are using FOAM. Wool pads don't hop as much because they have a much lower coefficent of friction. Foam is basically rubber and if not lubricated enough with product will dry out and grab at the surface. That is why it gets so hot so fast. You will find that you use more product because the heat will dry the product out and then dust if off the paint leaving a nice clean surface. I always reccomend using the old hood and burning, scratching, swirling and also making it look like a new hood, in order to become comfortable and proficient with the rotary. Once you do it will be your go to tool for high speed and super high gloss.
 
Some excellent information! I'll add my 2 cents.

1. Yes, with rotary buffer you will tend to use more product. However, there is a bit of a fine line between more and too much more...... see #2

2. There are a number of things that can create rotary hop. Here a few.....

Not using enough enough product.
Product residue buildup in the pad - too much product.
Too much pressure on the pads - foam pads want to "bounce back"

That said, it's better to err on the side of a bit too much product. You should be ready to clean a pad a couple times during a session, or change to a fresh pad.

3. Pressure is one of the difficult things to describe....... it's something you have to feel and experience. Much of it depends on the speed of the rotary, aggressiveness of the product and the type of pad. If you are just starting out with a rotary, I recommend that you let the weight of the machine do the majority of the work. With a little time, you will get the feel of when and how much pressure to apply. I run my rotary buffers at VERY high speeds......... that's something that I DO NOT recommend others try until they get the feel. Using high speeds puts you very close to the edge of a "disaster".

4. Most products can be worked until they start/almost disappear. Again, for a beginner, I recommend working it "short" (leave it a little wetter) rather than working it "long" (product gone). As you get more practice, you'll be able to push the product to it's ideal point.

5. Practice is a good thing. Keep in mind, that burning the paint can also ruin a good pad. Use a pad you are not fond of (or well worn).

To summarize:

Start out with slower speeds (1000 - 1200 RPM)

Start with less aggressive products and pads.

Keep foam pads flat.

Use products that are forgiving - products that don't have to be worked "perfect" to give great results.

Make sure you use enough product. Err on the side of a little too much than not enough.

Make sure you "prime" the pad properly with your inital run of the buffer.

Clean/change pads frequently.

Let the machine do the work.

Don't force the buffers movements..... just gide it along.

As you progress, you will get the knack and feel of perfecting all those "mini" processes within a process.

Hope this helps.
 
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