Learning curve with a Rotory

I

imported_Paul

New member
I recently ordered some Klasse SG from Classic Motoring... and the package came with a tip sheet from them as well.



When I tried what was suggested, the Klasse went on and off with zero problems whatsoever.



The trick is in the application...take a MF applicator or MF towel...spritz it with one shot of QD spray...use just a nickel's size of SG on the moistened towel...and use that amount to do a half a hood's worth of your car...then repeat and do the second half.



Let it dry completely...I know, you're thinking the stuff will never come off...but that's not true...with a clean MF towel, it comes off like magic. If you absolutely need to, then spritz the MF at a distance of about 12" just to barely moisten it, if you need a little help in removing the SG, but you probably won't need to if you've applied the product correctly. The trick is not to apply too much product, and the QD spray acts as a lubricant and helps the tiny amount of SG to spread.



Try it...it will amaze you...



Paul
 
when I put on a thicker coat of SG and let it dry on the car for 40 minutes before removal. I believe SHOWROOMLINCOLN had better results when using SG in that manner as well. Note the car I used it on had good condition 10 yr old clearcoat. It was harder to buff off, but the end results were much better.
 
Did we ever get Snake to reveal his method? I still think he has gotten better results than anyone I have seen...



Eitherway, it sounds like "a little more than we recommended about 6 months ago" is better than less.
 
DK is correct, sometimes I use thicker coats of Klasse SG than most do. I have found that it helps with the water beading (especially with older cars), and it gives it a little more gloss (not much, just a little). I never really measured how much I use when I put it on thick. I can see it going on to the paint though, if that helps. I let the thicker coats dry for at least 1 hour before removing, but DK did well with 40 minutes. I think with thicker coats, the longer you can leave it sit the better.



When I use thick coats, I use the damp towel trick for removal. Otherwise it is a major PITA to buff off. The damp towel takes it off with no buffing at all.
 
I find using multiple thin coats better then one thick coat. I guess if differs with different paints, etc.



Isn't it great to experiment?
 
BW,



I do the first coat and maybe the second coat of SG using thin coats. Then I use thick ones. I rotate between thick and thin, but I always do a thick coat as the "top" coat.



Yes, it is fun to experiment:) :up
 
I didn't glob it on, but picture going as thin as possible and then just renew fresh SG on the applicator twice as often. You can definately see it haze when I was finished. Use SL's trick with the damp towel for removal, as I didn't and it was hard to remove.



Acuraracer, some of us asked snake for his methods and more info on Klasse when he talked to BOB so it would hopefully put an end to guessing and experimentaion with application, and cure times. It seems like a lot of people have different methods, but I guess as long as you are satisfied with the results it does not matter. Some of us were still curious though. His response to my email was that he was only sharing that info with his friends and customers, so if you are neither of those, guess you won't find anything out from him either.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by DETAILKING [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>... His response to my email was that he was only sharing that info with his friends and customers, so if you are neither of those, guess you won't find anything out from him either. [/b]</blockquote>
Well, that's a bummer. Knowledge is power, I guess. I just applied AIO/SG to a new finish also using the tips in the "Klasse Application Guide" from CMA. Misting the MF applicator definitely made application easy and buff off was relatively easy as well. I did use more product than the guide called for. I believe the guide suggested one nickel sized dollop would cover an entire hood. I felt I wasn't getting any coverage trying to spread it that thin (esp w/ the SG). This was my first go round with AIO/SG and I'm impressed with the initial results. The real test will be the winter elements coming soon. :)
 
When I took the SG off my car with a damp MF towel from Tacscar, it was just like wiping off a counter top with a normal towel. The SG came off very very easy without any effort. Why do I need the FI(QD) now? :)
 
i'm more than happy to share my tips with anyone interested, just not on this forum. i sell a product that cma sells and this is their sponsored forum and i feel it inappropriate and unprofessional to push our common products on this site. it has nothing to do with power.

e-mail me at tacscar1@home.com and i'll give you any info that i have on klasse.
 
99ESMAX



I glad you liked the damp MF towel trick. I kind of stumbled onto this method by accident, but it is the best way for removal of SG that I have found.
 
I read that tip on this forum and tried it and it definitely worked great. :) I'm not sure who originated this method of removal for SG but it sure works. Still, removal of SG from the roff of the car is a pain no matter what. Even standing on a mini ladder, it is very hard. Guess we have to use the Mission Impossible route of hanging down from a tree or the garage. :D
 
Does it matter which type of QD you use to help apply Klasse SG? If. as some warn, IHG (an oil-based product) inhibits Klasse from adhering, wouldn't a carnuba-based QD cause the same problem?



What QDs have folks used to apply Klasse SG successfully?
 
It can even be mixed into a wash bucked and used as wash or a spray bottle to be used as a QD according to the directions. Is anyone concerned that using a damp towel to remove KLASSE or spraying it with water might degrade the layer that is supposed to stay on the car? I guess to be sure, we should let SG dry at least an hour to make sure it is dry and water will not dissolve it. What do you think?
 
DK,



I have not had any problems with it. It still has all the gloss and smoothness. But, I do let it dry for at least 1 hour. But, I have had no problems at all.
 
Mass. Wine Guy, you would not want to use a QD spray that has neither silicones nor carnauba. Meguiar's #34 fits the bill.

For reference, I wrote in answer to Bixa929's question some details of my process. You can view the thread here.
 
SG haze is very thin yet very sturdy, but with a little differnce as even the slightest amount of moisture on a cloth, it wisks away with ease. It's quite puzzling actually.



I have even found that moisture in your breath is enough to take SG off with ease. Breathe on it a little and wipe with a miracle towel and it comes right off. But that of course is impractical so I usually resort to the distilled water in a spritzer.



The point is if moisture from air is enought to expedite the removal of SG then you should use as least invasive way as possible to minimze possible coating removal.



I don't see why it would be necessary to use QD, as in it's costly compared to water. It contains other things in it, many of which we don't really know exactly what it is. Fragrance molecules can get trapped in the SG, I don't know.



And we know that the alcohol in QD tends to remove some (very small amount) the coating that it touches. Now it may not be a lot but if i'm going to put as much effort into this as possible, I'm not going to diminish the adhesion in any way as possible.



Just my 2 cents on that one.
 
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