LC Classic Flat vs. Kompressor

L

Lowejackson

New member
It has been said many times on this forum, the technique used is more important than the product. I am sure people like Brad B et al could do a better job with Turtle Wax than I could with Klasse/Zaino or any other high end product. So the question are:



1. where can I learn about the exact techniques required,

2. can anyone recommend other sites that explain about how paint is applied, what it is made from and problem solving paint issues

3. what tools would be required to start a small detailing business, ie do I need a pressure washer, how do I carry water?



The reasons for asking these questions is that it is possible I will lose my job due to extended ill health this year. I am not looking to become rich, just try and learn as much as I can, and help pay the bills until I can fully recover and get another job. But I hate doing things I dont understand and feel that my technique is poor. Here in the UK, detailing does not really exist so there may be issues over marketing, but I would like to make a serious consideration to cleaning cars to a high level.



Looking forward to any advice





Steven

Alfa 164

Autoglym & Blitz
 
For some info about paints check out www.autoint.com and talk to Ron Ketcham. Ron knows a ton about paints and how they are applied etc.

Many of the techniques are devloped from years of experience. You can try out different products different ways, and see which one is the best. I dont think there will be a website about it, nobody is going to give away show winning secrets you know. ;)
 
I learned a lot for a friend with an always perfect Mercedes. I offered to help him detail his car. It accelerated the learning curve.
 
I know when polishing using the KBM, most people like the Classic Flat pads. My question is, when applying a finishing polish or applying a glaze or sealant, do you perfer the flat or the Kompressor?

Thanks!
 
bmw5541 said:
I know when polishing using the KBM, most people like the Classic Flat pads. My question is, when applying a finishing polish or applying a glaze or sealant, do you perfer the flat or the Kompressor?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I like the flat ones or the ones with dimples (CCS?) for glazes and sealants. Usually use a red pad.
 
IMO the Kompressor pad's do not lend themselves to DA use. The design is best used with the smooth, linear motion of a rotary. On a DA you want the pad to be as stiff as possible through out, to transfer the motion of the machine efficently.
 
th0001 said:
IMO the Kompressor pad's do not lend themselves to DA use. The design is best used with the smooth, linear motion of a rotary. On a DA you want the pad to be as stiff as possible through out, to transfer the motion of the machine efficently.
Click to expand...

Okay, thanks Todd.

What about the CCS pads? Same thing apply to them?
 
The Flex would be (by my definition) neither. It is a DA motion, which means the pad is starting, stopping, speeding up, slowing down, etc, like the 'Scrambler' ride at an amusement park.
 
Stokdgs said:
But the Flex 3401VRG does still rotate the pad continually, so........

Dan F
Click to expand...

The Flex actually spins the pad in the opposite direction as the orbit so the eccentric motion is increased slightly.

With a rotary the pad spins in the on direction so the forces applied to it are linear. The pad itself wants to be pulled outward, but once the machine is at speed, the force remains fairly consant.

A DA machine is not only spinning the pad (forced or not) but also imparting an orbital motion. Since the pad is orbiting as much as 20 times per rotation, it is being pulled in two different directions at once. Think of the Scrambler Machine at the fair. When the orbit rotation and the pad rotation are the same the pad is accelerated very quickly.

However the orbit is 360 degrees and very small, so it happens many many times during a revolution. So the pad goes from acclerationg quick in the same direction to completing the second have of the orbit, where it is now traveling in the opposite direct. So the pad slows down, turns sharply, then accelerates. A lot of his action is absorbed in the pad and very little movement can transfer fully to the paint.

Take a bowl of Jello and remove it from the bowl. Now stick it on the counter. Place your hand on top the Jello pile and move your hand in tiny circles, like you are applying wax. The jello touching the counter will not move much (if at all) despite you applying force to the top of it. The orbital motion of your hand is being absorbed by the jello as it giggles on itself.

Now take the same Jello pile and spin it. After some initial compression and twist the entire pile of Jello will begin to spin.

If you apply both movements at the same the oribtal movement is still going to be absorbed through the pad, although the rotational movement is going to transfer.

Take the Flex, which has a 480 rpm limit. If you use a soft pad that doesn't effectively transfer the orbital movement, then you are left with a very very slow speed rotary polisher. The pad itself doesn't care if the rotation is forced by the machine or by physics, what it cares about is effective transfer from the machine to the paint's surface.
 
th0001 said:


Take the Flex, which has a 480 rpm limit. If you use a soft pad that doesn't effectively transfer the orbital movement, then you are left with a very very slow speed rotary polisher. The pad itself doesn't care if the rotation is forced by the machine or by physics, what it cares about is effective transfer from the machine to the paint's surface.
Click to expand...
So with kompressor pads and the 3401, there's not an effective transfer from the machine to the paints surface?
 
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