KLASSE - Suggested How To?

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:nixweiss

I got a Klasse Concours Kit, and wonder what the suggested order of operation should be?



After reading about 100 posts about the stuff, I suspect that washing the vehicle with Dawn to remove the existing wax and oil is not necessary.



So should I clay bar then apply AIO followed by SG? Any suggestions?



Thanks in advance!
 
If your car needs clay then definatly do it. Dawn washing will get everything else off and then the clay will take care of the bumps. If you want to do another wash after the clay then you can but its not really needed. AIO is a paint cleaner so I can't imagine some clay streaks are going to cause much problem. You can layer SG right after AIO. You don't need more than one layer of AIO but you can put as many of SG that you want. Wait 24 hours between layers for best results. Put the SG on thin to avoid difficulty buffing off. There are a couple methods for buffing that I'm sure you've read. You can use a damp MF towel and then follow up with a dry one. That method works really well. Or you can spray a little QD first and then buff it off. Either way, thinner layers are eaiser to take off. Does that help any? You are going to love Klasse! Welcome to Autopia! :xyxthumbs
 
Your going to have to wash the car so you might as well do a dawn wash first. After than you can clay, apply AIO, and go into Klasse SG. I know when I did it on my truck before I did a Dawn wash, clay, Meguiar's #9, Klasse AIO and then Klasse SG.



This time I'm trying something different but I'm still doing AIO before SG
 
Intel486 said:
...but I'm still doing AIO before SG
Click to expand...



As opposed to what...? AIO after SG? ;) Just kidding with ya. I know what you mean. :p



Question for ya Intel... You do the #9 with a PC, right? I guess you clay first because if you swirl or scratch the paint with the clay then the #9 will take care of it, right? Is that right or is there some other reason you do it in that order? I would think that the #9 would take care of a lot of the need for clay but if the clay is going to damage the paint at all then you would want to PC second. Sorry, just thinking out loud. I think I'm right about why you do the #9 second though.
 
:D Thanks for the hints.... It looks like it is going to be a wonderful weekend to do this. Aftrer completing the requiste mowing of the lawn - I will attempt to blind the neighbor guy (a fellow motorhead) with science.
 
How thin is thin for SG?



Thin to the point that you don't think you're apllying any to the car, usually I can see the SG for a couple of seconds then it vanishes.



Multiple thin coats will be much better than trying a no so thin layer ... it took me three tries on my car to understand this, even though I read about it here multiple times.



[/edit] Hey! My 100th post!!! [/edit]
 
Jngrbrdman said:




As opposed to what...? AIO after SG? Just kidding with ya. I know what you mean.



Question for ya Intel... You do the #9 with a PC, right? I guess you clay first because if you swirl or scratch the paint with the clay then the #9 will take care of it, right? Is that right or is there some other reason you do it in that order? I would think that the #9 would take care of a lot of the need for clay but if the clay is going to damage the paint at all then you would want to PC second. Sorry, just thinking out loud. I think I'm right about why you do the #9 second though.
Click to expand...



GRRRR smarta^^ :D



I'm using different products. I didn't clay this time at all, instead I use ProWax's Power Lift Fallout Remover. It removed all the fallout from the paint which I could feel so I decided not to clay. I then did the colorsanding I posted before and used ProWax's Duz-all with my DeWalt Orbital (I have a DeWalt and not a PC) to remove the sandpaper marks. I did that just to see if a DA buffer can handle sandpaper marks. The rest of the scratches and badly swirled areas of the truck I used Duz-All with a yellow Waffle pad on my Rotary.



I then used ProWax's Swirl eliminator with my DeWalt orbital and a yellow cutting pad. Right now I'm on the Klasse AIO part but need to find time between everything else to get it done. I should be putting the first layer of Klasse SG on this weekend or early next week. After than putting one layer of SG on a day won't be a problem since it doesn't take as long as busting out the buffers and getting to work. Then having to pack them all up and run off to do a detail :D
 
amgtorre said:
How thin is thin for SG?



Thin to the point that you don't think you're apllying any to the car, usually I can see the SG for a couple of seconds then it vanishes.



Multiple thin coats will be much better than trying a no so thin layer ... it took me three tries on my car to understand this, even though I read about it here multiple times.



[/edit] Hey! My 100th post!!! [/edit]
Click to expand...



Exactly. With Klasse SG, the coats must be thin or you might get the infamous Klasse haze. :D
 
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