Klasse success, its not the dewpoint.

R

RJJ

New member
Its been puzzleing to me the problems reported with the use of Klasse, expecially since I have had three perfect and easy (too!)

experiences with the product.

Since I have used the product in the early fall and spring my conclusion was that the humidity was the culprit.



But with another great experience yesterday with dewpoints in the mid to upper seventies and during off and on again thunderstorms I have to reject my suspecision.



Amount of product?, surface temperature??, sheltered applications or all three?????
 
I think the main thing is having plenty of clean MF around. One MF just for the hood only, for example! When I get lazy and keep using the same cloth, I'm contantly fighting smear marks.



And the other thing is just pure muscle power. I find you really have to bear down on the surface to get those stuborn streaks out. A little bit of Klasse-compatible QD helps as well.
 
RJJ,



Glad to hear your Klasse experiences have been positive. I know the problems I had the first time I used Klasse were too much product and, most importantly, I didn't adhere to any of the guidelines on dry/cure times...of course I didn't know about Autopia at the time ;) which would have cured these problems. So, I'd add dry/cure times to your list of potential pitfalls.



Russ
 
I heard Sonus makes things easier when using SG, but I haven't tried it yet. I ordered Sonus a few weeks ago, but I've been lazy.



Just using EX and FI lately.
 
Spraying some distilled water also helps with Klasse hazing. I find this very useful. Though, I also apply it thin enough that I can't even see a haze in most places. I'd guess I use around 1/4 of an ounce or less for the whole car.



But anyway, distilled water helps and is easier to find than a Klasse-compatible QD. I'm thinking the next time I apply SG, I'll try misting the applicator with distilled water just like for AIO. The main problem I have with SG is just that it sets up so fast. It is hard to spread it around quickly enough. I don't think I could do it without the PC. I'd probably use more product by hand just because it's hard to spread it fast enough.



I buffed the whole car with one Ultimate Wipe and a little sprayer full of distilled water. I haven't seen any hazing left yet, and you can really see the water work on those spots where there is the SG "glue".
 
I use damp MF applicator to apply SG and two MF towel method to remove.No "hazing" problems.For final buffing I use Sonus Qd or PlatinumQD:up



Serg
 
I assume by "compatible" you mean the quick detailer doesn't contains any waxes to get in between coats. Do you know if Meguiar's Quick Detailer is compatible? I am on their site now but it isn't clear as to whether it has wax or not. It refers to maintaining that "just waxed" appearance, however.
 
I use Meg's Quick Detailer all the time with Klasse. No problems. I do make two passes over the entire car though. I also have a gallon of Final Inspection waiting to be used next. I've read Sonus is the most compatible qd with Klasse though since it contains the same ingredients.
 
My very positive experiences with Klasse have been without alot of hard rubbing and without the use of micro fiber cloths, with the exception of the applicator and a quick last wipe with a mf detailing cloth. Other than this the procedure is pretty basic, following the tips from the 'Guide' (CMA) and here. Multiple coats of AIO done a section at a time then removed with a cotton cloth, and multiple layers of SG with only a twenty minute cure time between buffing and another coats (a detail spray to lube the mf applicator).

On our silver VW's the results are astounding and I really wish all could have at least the same results.

Aside from the dewpoint, which I really thought was the main culprit for those of us who have had problems, I also believed that perhaps streaking or hazing or hard removal may be caused by other products on the finish. But I discounted this when I did a very quick application on our bike a red BMW G.S. Our scooter had about an inch of various waxes on it and one application of AIO-this stuff REALLY removes wax- and two of SG produced a perfectly clear and deep shine.

The down side, if this is really one, is that I have not used the PC or my Cyclo since I swithed to Klasse..
 
RJJ said:
...The down side, if this is really one, is that I have not used the PC or my Cyclo since I swithed to Klasse..
Click to expand...



Don't want them to feel neglected :D . I apply AIO by machine (both PC and Cyclo) all the time, works GREAT. I've pretty much given up on SG application by machine, but I sometimes buff SG off using either CMA's The Max MF bonnets (PC) or TOL's "suede style" MF bonnets (Cyclo). They work quite well, even if a minor by-hand follow up is sometimes required.
 
I have really been tempted to try a machine application of AIO, could you post your pad choices and how much product you apply to the pad and in what manner you apply the AIO to the pad.

Tnkn you

RJJ
 
RJJ said:
I have really been tempted to try a machine application of AIO, could you post your pad choices and how much product you apply to the pad and in what manner you apply the AIO to the pad.

Tnkn you RJJ
Click to expand...



For AIO, I use a "polishing" pad. Green for the Cyclo, CMA/Lake white or Griot's orange for the PC.



I haven't really give much thought to how much I use or how I apply it...let's see..I DON'T use so much that I have to worry about slinging. I dampen the pad JUST A LITTLE with water. With the PC, I put either a thin circle or "X" of AIO on the pad. I then set the pad on the surface, move it around a little (smearing it on the car) then turn on the machine. I start at 3 and speed it up to 5 or even 6 (I usually use it like that). With the Cyclo, I just put a dime-to-penny-size dab of AIO on each pad, again smear it around, and then turn the machine on. I work it just like most mild polishes, stopping before I've buffed it all away, but NOT until it's well "worked in". AIO is pretty foolproof.



As you work, you will keep adding product and will eventually get the pads pretty saturated with it. Just don't use so much that things get messy OR so much that you're leaving a whole lot of it on the surface to be buffed off later. I don't see a whole lot of downside to using too much, it'll just be wasteful and messy and more work to buff off.



Sorry I'm not being more clear or helpful with this, I just treat the machine's pad(s) the same way I would a hand-application one.



When the pads look soiled I take them off and rinse them well, then blot them dry with a towel as best I can. I DO NOT spin them on the PC to dry them, too often they'll fly off. I DO spin them on the Cyclo, holding the machine inside a plastic tub to keep things tidy.



If there's some way I can clarify something, ask away. AIO by machine really is great.
 
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