Klasse SG removal. Too thick or too thin?

H

hook

New member
Okay, I'm not a newbie, but this season twice now I've gone to buff out the SG I've applied (very, very thin) and let dry.



Unless I use a buffer, I can't get the SG off. A MF towel looks like it removes it, but creates what I would swear to be swirl marks, but aren't. If it wasn't so frustrating, it'd be kinda cool...wipe the towel across the hood, look at the right angle...3D special effects. Wipe the same spot at a ninety degree angle, no 3D "swirl" effect.



So what's up? Didn't have this trouble last summer. Same car. Same paint. Same bottle of SG. Same towels (good MF). Same technique.



I can't decide if I'm applying it so thin that it's not setting, or if I'm getting lazy and putting it on too thick and not able to remove it all. I'm letting it sit on the car about 45 minutes before buffing off.



BTW, it survives rainstorms and washings - I was *really* befuddled the first time I washed the car about 10 days after I'd done the first SG...thought I'd used a wrong towel or something, the car had that horrid 3D effect *everywhere*. Then I noticed I could change the direction of the effect....



Also, no change in laundry detergent or the wasy I wash/dry my towels (thought maybe one got a dryer sheet by accident or something, but that's not it either).



Comments appreciated.



Andy
 
Did 1x Aio and 2x SG with 30 minutes between layers. let the last layer sit 1 hour before buffing off. It seems almost like a real thin layer of oils on top of the SG. After the truck sat for an hour or two in the sun the swirling effect was gone, I attributed it to the SG needing to cure. Man, that SG can be a bear to take off huh? :nixweiss
 
I learned after trying a bunch of stuff - if you search this board you'll find this kind of stuff has been discussed a lot. BETTER than detail spray - is to use 2 MF wipes. Wet one with POW (Plain Old Water) and wring out as much as you can. Wipe first with the wet one, follow with the dry one in the other hand. works GREAT. If you still have problems with this you didn't get it on thin enough. Try applying it with a buffing pad on your orbital - pre-moistened with a little detail spray mist - then a few drops of SG per panel.
 
I'm a member of the "curing" camp. By that I mean I believe that the AIO and SG both should be allowed to "cure" after application/removal for at least 24 hours.



I also like to let SG sit for a while before buffing. As I think about my process, I think I'm not allowing enough time for the SG to dry on the car, attributed to the fact that last year the car was new and it took me longer to do the whole car (by the time I'd gone all the way around applying, it was alomst time to buff off.



Also, I don't think you can really get too much on (even though it gets hard to remove). I went to Tim's house once, his truck was in the garage with this layer of white on it....it was SG, had sat for a couple hours...he said it wasn't quite ready yet :eek:



I'm going to try a bit thicker next time. I recall this happening once a long time ago with a wax...when applied too thin there wasn't enough product for it to set up, and you basically had a layer of oily stuff on the car (which is what this seems like).



This is really weird, though, since it didn't happen at all to me all last year.



best regards,

Andy
 
I've also noticed that if you mist your applicator with a QD like Meguiars #34 the QD will leave streaks of a QD and SG mix which is very very tough to remove. Even the QD bottle says DO NOT allow to dry on the vehicle. That may be part of the problem. Next time my applicator will be misted with a little water or maybe even dry. :nixweiss
 
Carguy has the right answer, two MF towels one damp the other dry, wipe with the damp one follow with the dry one. This is very fast and yeilds a terrific shine. If you live in an area with hard water like I do, use distilled water not tap water to moisten the towel.
 
It would seem to me that using a QD or damp cloth to help take off Klasse S/G is defeating your cause. This would seem to be removing a certain amount of the sealer you just put down. Especially because its not "cured", which taks up to 24 hours from what I understand. I've found a good old fasioned 100% terry towel and some good old elbow grese works best. The MF towels are not very good at removing SG. I take SG off with a terry towel and the follow through with a MF to buff out. Always works good;)
 
avalanche - with all due respect, just try it!



the only part that stays on the paint is that which is bonded to it. If water was going to break that bond, it wouldn't last through a wash! Rubbing with terry and elbow grease does nothing but rescratch the car. You can get by with MANY fewer strokes and much less pressure using the method I prescribed above.
 
Avalanche,



I first stumbled upon the damp towel method about 6 months ago and have passed it along to many of my Autopian friends. I have not heard of a single problem using this method. I personally use this method and would never recommend something that I felt may to damage to someones car.



The damp towel helps reduce surface friction which makes wiping off the SG a smooth process, also with the lubricating properties of the water it reduces the chances for surface marring.



As carguy said, just try it! I think you will be impressed.

:xyxthumbs
 
I've used that method, I know it works but it's a last resort in my camp. I guarantee that you are taking off a good deal of SG that otherwise would have been part of your "cured layer" that way. Even Klasse says its not fully cured for as long as 24 hours. A clean terry towel is much better at taking SG off and has never scratched my surfaces. If the surface is a little dusty or you are QD'ing thats another story, then MF is the only way to go, but we are talking about a polish job here.
 
in my first time experience today using klasse sg, i did not have any trouble buffing off the sg. it might be because i just wet the mf applicator. next time try it without the qd and see what kind of results you get. good luck.



-briancl
 
Klasse newbie here...forgive my small hijack here.



Carguy?



I like the technique you describe. You mention opening with a damp MF applicator followed with a dry MF app. You are basically applying with a damp MF and then immediately following your application with a dry MF app to get the thin coat? After letting this cure, buffing it up with a dry MF towel?



I'm thinking about taking the plunge this weekend, already have both AIO and SG along with a good MF inventory.



:bow
 
i believe carguys wet and dry mf method refers to the removal of AIO. the wet mf makes removal easier and the dry just dries off the surface and gets rid of any other loose residue. the thin coat when applying will come from a slightly wetted mf applicator.
 
gb said:
i believe carguys wet and dry mf method refers to the removal of AIO. the wet mf makes removal easier and the dry just dries off the surface and gets rid of any other loose residue. the thin coat when applying will come from a slightly wetted mf applicator.
Click to expand...



Referring to the removal of SG. AIO is easy to remove without the damp towel. A lot of Autopians have tried the two towel process of buffing(wiping with the two towel step) with great success. I tried just normal removal with a dry MF towel but was a pain to buff. After reading ShowroomLincoln's technique last year in August, it worked like a charm. :) The most time consuming is waiting for the cure time before buffing out the SG. Klasse is easy to use. :)
 
Abe said:
Klasse newbie here...forgive my small hijack here.



Carguy?



I like the technique you describe. You mention opening with a damp MF applicator followed with a dry MF app. You are basically applying with a damp MF and then immediately following your application with a dry MF app to get the thin coat? After letting this cure, buffing it up with a dry MF towel?



I'm thinking about taking the plunge this weekend, already have both AIO and SG along with a good MF inventory.



:bow
Click to expand...



No - apply with foam pad - mist it with detail spray before the 1st panel to help spread the material around without the pad dragging. The removal is for SG (not AIO) and uses two MF wipes. It works great.



By the way, Showroom Lincoln gets the credit for this technique- he is the one I learned from.
 
Apply SG with a moist pad? I always thought that you were supposed to make sure the surface was bone dry, the only product that was ok to apply moist was the All In One.



Could this be the cause of Glaze gunking up on people? Because we are applying it with the aid of water.
 
I called CMA a week ago about my order, and ended up talking with the President. We started talking about SG, and how difficult it can be to remove. He said that the best way to remove SG is to give it time. As a matter of fact, the recommended time to dry is over 12 hours. So, he said, if I could wait, to leave the SG on over night, and to take it off the following morning.



Since I do not have a garage, this is not an option, but the longer you wait, the easier it is to remove. Also, wetting the removal MF helps tremendously.



Oh yeah, and thin coats are the way to go.



Andy, I hope that this helps. It is good to see your posts again :).



Best regards.
 
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