Ok I have done plenty of searches and haven't found exactly the answer I was looking for. I am going to try the AIO/SG combo. My car is basically brand new so I don't anticipate needing to do any cleaning other than the AIO. My problem is I don't think I can keep the car idle long enough to do all I want to do. Does anyone see a problem with this....wash, 1 coat of AIO, 1 coat of SG. After this, from what I can tell it's best to wait 12-24 hrs before doing anything else. If I waited a week (hard to do anything on it other than weekends) after the first coat of SG, then washed the car again, then put another coat of SG on? Then wait another week, wash again, then top with carnuba wax. Just wanting to know if these weekly delays between 1st coat of SG and second coat, and then between 2nd coat and wax are ok? Thanks a lot.
Klasse question
- Thread starter 04Runner
- Start date
Pats300zx
Super Moderator
Sounds like a perfect plan. That is basically what I do on my daily drivers when I do my AIO/SG routine.
Since my cars are older I usually clay in the spring before I start everything.
Since my cars are older I usually clay in the spring before I start everything.
Jngrbrdman
New member
SG doesn't require coat after coat after coat. It looks great with just one coat. I usually go for one coat per weekend. Not many of us have the time or the good fortune with the weather to just wake up and slap a coat of SG on our car every morning. Just make sure the surface is clean before applying another coat and you are fine. Wash the car first and that should do it. Having several days between coats isn't anything to worry about. Its how most of us have to do things anyway. The 12-24 hours is just the minimum time to wait between coats. Anytime after that is fine. :bigups
I second Pats sounds like a great plan, I did
one saturday mornig SG and then wash on Sunday afternoon and another coat of SG, then I wait two weeks and put another coat of SG, after that, I topped it, first with Grand Blitz and now with NXT, great results, The thing about SG is that you can try almost everything on top
one saturday mornig SG and then wash on Sunday afternoon and another coat of SG, then I wait two weeks and put another coat of SG, after that, I topped it, first with Grand Blitz and now with NXT, great results, The thing about SG is that you can try almost everything on top
imported_The Uncle
New member
I'm sure the others here will agree with me that a car being new does not mean it will need no other cleaning than AIO. I learned the hard way (after several posters here talked urged me to clay) than new cars can be coated with fine grain dust that is not easily seen with the eye (perhaps rail dust?). Anyway, my personal feeling is that you should always clay before using SG. But, perhaps the more experienced detailers here can comment.
I've washed the car twice so far with a Turtle Wax car wash I got at Autozone. I've never used dish soap on it. I bought all of the high quality towels and mitts from autopia trying to take every measure not to cause any scratching. I'm not against claying the car first, but I have never done it before. I am inexperienced and always thought (probably incorrectly) that using clay was a more abrasive type cleaning you only did on a "dirtier" car. I've only had this car a month and have kept it very clean so I didn't think something like that was necessary. Then again, I don't know very much. The car also had this "lusterizing" package from the factory..which I've learned is probably nothing more than a coat of wax. The paint is very very smooth after washing and drying, but I will clay if that's what those who know think I should do. Also...once I do put a wax on over the SG (I might use the NXT I already have), can you keep adding SG as desired or would you need to use AIO again to clean off the wax before adding SG again? Thanks for the replies.
04Runner, I would indeed encourage you to try claying. It really is a no-brainer product. Buy a gentle clay like Mothers or ClayMagic, and just apply it gently (I think there's an article on this in the "Learn" icon at the top of the page). Try it on one section. If you don't feel a difference between the clayed and unclayed sections of your paint, then you're the 1-in-a-million who really doesn't need to clay. But I tried it on a car that I believed was "perfect," and I was blown away. However, YMMV! 
If you read thru some of the Autopia posts, you will find that it's owners of brand-new cars (like The Uncle said) who have found that clay is particularly beneficial. When a car is much more "far gone," then it takes something more aggressive than clay to get that amazing slick feeling back.
If you decide to give it a try, please let us know how it works for you.
If you read thru some of the Autopia posts, you will find that it's owners of brand-new cars (like The Uncle said) who have found that clay is particularly beneficial. When a car is much more "far gone," then it takes something more aggressive than clay to get that amazing slick feeling back.
If you decide to give it a try, please let us know how it works for you.
Hi and welcome 04Runner.
Don't use AIO again unless you want to start all over. It will try and remove everything. Basically with layerable sealants like Klasse you have to apply as many coats as you desire, and you can't really add more once you top it off. Some people do though, through a combination of waiting for the topper to wear off and a dish detergent wash, but this is a bit of an "iffy" proposition...
You don't really have to wash again if you've used QD as the lubricant and you don't have a problem with clay residue on the paint, which I think might be partially due to letting the clay soak up too much lube and folding it into the clay.
Don't use AIO again unless you want to start all over. It will try and remove everything. Basically with layerable sealants like Klasse you have to apply as many coats as you desire, and you can't really add more once you top it off. Some people do though, through a combination of waiting for the topper to wear off and a dish detergent wash, but this is a bit of an "iffy" proposition...
You don't really have to wash again if you've used QD as the lubricant and you don't have a problem with clay residue on the paint, which I think might be partially due to letting the clay soak up too much lube and folding it into the clay.
foxtrapper
New member
Don't wait to apply the 2nd coat of SG. It just isn't necessary. I've done it back to back just fine, and it's held up quite well.
Accumulator
Well-known member
04Runner said:
You only need to wash again if you leave a lot of clay resisue on the car. Of course, "a lot" is gonna be a judgement call. But done corrrectly, there shouldn't be much (if any) clay residue anyhow. Use plenty of lube and wipe carefully after you finish a given area.
If you find you're getting a LOT of residue, stop and try to refine your clay technique by redoing that area, rather than making a mess out of your whole car and THEN thinking about it.
Note that AIO is a great cleaner and might be all you need to clean off any clay residue.
foxtrapper
New member
What is it about you Bill that makes you follow me around and protest so strongly my method of applying Klasse SG? It's like a personal little obsession with you. Any time I post a comment about it, sure as shooting, here comes Bill with snide icons and comments.
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Quote: What is it about you Bill that makes you follow me around and protest so strongly my method of applying Klasse SG? It's like a personal little obsession with you. Any time I post a comment about it, sure as shooting, here comes Bill with snide icons and comments.
~One mans opinion / observation~
I will say this BillN and I don’t agree 100% on polymer application methodology, but I respect his opinion / in sights.. So lets not let this thread degenerate into a slanging match.
Last time, if memory serves we all agreed to disagree on the basis of, ‘we’ liked our methods and they worked for ‘us’.
Everyone is entitled to their own opinion, and for that person their opinion is absolutely factual.
~Hope this helps~
Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/
justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
~One mans opinion / observation~
I will say this BillN and I don’t agree 100% on polymer application methodology, but I respect his opinion / in sights.. So lets not let this thread degenerate into a slanging match.
Last time, if memory serves we all agreed to disagree on the basis of, ‘we’ liked our methods and they worked for ‘us’.
Everyone is entitled to their own opinion, and for that person their opinion is absolutely factual.
~Hope this helps~
Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/
justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
foxtrapper said:
Like I said, it's nothing personal, it's just my humble opinion. And I'm not following you around. I happen to read most of the klasse threads. What can I say, I post what I think. My smiley's in the other thread weren't intended as a slight. I sincerely found what you wrote to be amusing.
Do whatever you want and what works for you. Just don't expect me to agree with it. And in most cases, expect me to offer a counter point as well.
Bill :up :xyxthumbs
2wheelsx2
New member
I am of the school that you can do whatever you want, as long as it creates the look you want, at the effort level that you want. In my personal experience, I have found the 24 wait worth my while, but it may not be for someone in a different climate, different colour car, and different time schedule.
I think all we need is that we expect different opinions and be respectful of each other when we disagree.
I think all we need is that we expect different opinions and be respectful of each other when we disagree.
Hey foxtrapper, don't feel that way. BillNorth just feels very strongly about his method. I understand his thinking, sometimes I think my way is the best and only way, only I've not been able to convince everybody else of that. 
I'm in your camp and I'll never believe that an extremely thin layer of SG needs 24 or more hours to cure before the next layer of SG can be applied with excellent results. I will also say that what one group believes to be true, the BillNorth group in this case, against what another group believes, short SG drying/curing time, makes either group wrong or right. There are plenty of people who believe that the BillNorth Way is the best way, which includes several people who have respected opinions on this subject.
I'm just not in the camp of BillNorth Way believers. I believe users of shorter, drying/curing times end up with just as effective protection for their paint. People like to point out that drying and curing are two separate processes and sometimes they are, although when paint is full cured it's also fully dried. It's just that when SG is applied as thin as it should be, which would equal about less than half the thickness of a piece of paper(how thin is that?) it doesn't take 24 hours to dry or cure. I've read that SG has to cross-link and what not with the paint. IMO, no way. By the time the OEM painted surface of your vehicle has reached your driveway it's fully dried and impervious to any kind cross-linking between the paint and a paint protectant. The best that can be hoped for is that the protectant of choice is bonding to the microscopic irregularities of the paint surface and nothing more. Cross-linking, in my way of thinking, infers that some kind of molecular, fluid exchange is going on.
Anyway the subject of SG can be best described as, We agree to disagree, on the application and waiting time between layers. Without an electron microscope nobody knows what's going on when we apply SG. Personal opinions affect our expected outcome and bias our expected end results towards that end.
I'm in your camp and I'll never believe that an extremely thin layer of SG needs 24 or more hours to cure before the next layer of SG can be applied with excellent results. I will also say that what one group believes to be true, the BillNorth group in this case, against what another group believes, short SG drying/curing time, makes either group wrong or right. There are plenty of people who believe that the BillNorth Way is the best way, which includes several people who have respected opinions on this subject.I'm just not in the camp of BillNorth Way believers. I believe users of shorter, drying/curing times end up with just as effective protection for their paint. People like to point out that drying and curing are two separate processes and sometimes they are, although when paint is full cured it's also fully dried. It's just that when SG is applied as thin as it should be, which would equal about less than half the thickness of a piece of paper(how thin is that?) it doesn't take 24 hours to dry or cure. I've read that SG has to cross-link and what not with the paint. IMO, no way. By the time the OEM painted surface of your vehicle has reached your driveway it's fully dried and impervious to any kind cross-linking between the paint and a paint protectant. The best that can be hoped for is that the protectant of choice is bonding to the microscopic irregularities of the paint surface and nothing more. Cross-linking, in my way of thinking, infers that some kind of molecular, fluid exchange is going on.
Anyway the subject of SG can be best described as, We agree to disagree, on the application and waiting time between layers. Without an electron microscope nobody knows what's going on when we apply SG. Personal opinions affect our expected outcome and bias our expected end results towards that end.
HellrotCi said:
I don't want to join any :argue about no wait, 24 hr wait or 7 day wait, but I would have thought the SG would be curing/bonding to the AIO not the actual paint.
So long as you are happy using the method you use and getting the results you want, thats all that really matters