Klasse and the Porter Cable PC

Fleet

Fleet

The Man With The Plan
I've been doing some reading on the site about Klasse AIO and SG. Anyways, I am curious about using a PC to apply both products. Since I'm buying a PC, I'd like to use it.



I have found plenty of posts about AIO with a PC, but none about SG with a PC. I read the billnorth method, and that sounds fine, but I want to use a PC, and don't see why I can't wipe on with a PC instead of by hand. What pad and PC setting would you recommend?
 
When I was ordering my PC and products, I was thinking the same thing... applying everything with it. But I tried it out last night and all I used the PC for was SMR. THe polish/glaze and wax I did 100% by hand and it really wasn't that bad. It was #26 wax too.
 
Most dont recoment the PC method because the SG is so thin that it will take a whole lot to get the pad "loaded". You would waste a lot more product using the PC to appy SG versus hand IMO. Applying AIO is a breeze with it, just stay around 5 and have fun!
 
Thanks for the info - that makes a lot of sense, actually. It would waste a lot of product.



I really appreciate everyone's helpful replies to my many questions!
 
Fleet- If you don't mind wasting a little product, you *can* apply SG by PC; I've done it plenty of times. Finishing pad, speed around 4, spread the SG out by going over increasingly large areas to help keep it thin. I let it set up overnight and then buff it off with a suede-style MF bonnet on the PC. Works like a charm. Not the only way, maybe not the *best* way for others, but no problems for me. Note that I *do* use the wo-pause-wo method for exterior trim, however.



You don't need to really saturate the pad to get a good application, just have enough on there that it applies smoothly.



IMO, the waste was negligible. I've done a few vehicles with *many* layers of SG, and the bottle's still gonna last me for many more years.
 
I would always apply Klasse SG by hand. It went quick enough that I didn't think the PC was necessary. I would do the first buffing by hand but then come back with the PC and a microfiber bonnet to get all the spots that I missed. It seemed to work out pretty well.
 
ericthebikeman said:
Does AIO remote swirls when used with a PC and yellow pad?
Click to expand...



I've heard it works but when I tried it I didn't see it removing any swirls. Now I just apply AIO as a prep step to help clean the paint of any oils from polishing in hopes that SG will have a better surface to bond to. I don't rely on AIO to remove any swirls.
 
The pplication of AIO via PC can remove some minor marring, with a little bit of 'dwelling'. My opinion is that it is a function of the friction from the pad, with the AIO acting as a simple lubricant.



Not the most effective method, but it worked for me today on a (almost) flawless 12 year old Diablo...



Jim
 
Since we are on the topic of application of SG, I've got a question. I've been using the WOWO method so far and was wondering if anyone REALLY knows how much of the product actually stays on there. It seems to me that if you wipe it on and immediately wipe it off, you are doing just that.....wiping it off. I'm hearing a lot of people saying that you really don't notice much of a difference with SG until the second or third application, well maybe it's because everyone's wiping it off??



My question is this, has anyone compared the difference between letting the SG dry to haze before buffing off to the wowo method? I'm sure quite of few people have but would like to hear the results.
 
I've never tried it but from what I know about synthetics is there needs to be some dwell time for the product to cross-link on the paint. It's how synthetics work.



I apply SG and let it sit 24 hours or however long I can let it sit and then buff it off. I noticed a slight difference with the first coat. You can really see a nice difference after 2 or 3 coats though.



Where at in New Orleans are you at?
 
I ran a comparison of the WOO method vs. the Wait One Hour (WOH), and the results in durability and appearance were virtually the same.



They were close enough, and the WOO was easy enough, that I see no need to go back to WOH (or WODay). Using WOO, I can reapply the SG to the entire car in 15-20 minutes (similar to the time required to clay a car), and it's not hard work by any means.



Most carnubas can be wiped off immediately, so I don't see why there would be any difference with a sealant. The amount that bonds with the surface will bond almost immediately. The amount that remains unbonded, will remain unbonded (rather than bonding at some later date), and will be wiped off - regardless of whether it is in its liquid or solid (dried) form.
 
I prefer to apply the SG by machine, Black pad on lowest setting. It is difficult to get it as thin as possible but it still takes very little product. Even after one coat, I can see it one there. After one coat of SG and driving my Trans Am, when I look in the side mirror, I can see the SG on there, it almost leaves a "wavy" look to the paint. You can definitely see an acrylic layer on the car. I apply the SG directly over 3m SWM because the AIO removes the fillers that the SWM carries.



The best advice I can give you for using SG is purchase a bottle of sonus QD when you buy the SG. It's compatible with the acrylics and it makes quick work of the SG residue when buffed with a MF towel. I usually let the SG cure for an hour and buff off with the MF misted with Sonus. I see results after one coat.



Wait 24 hrs. between coats though.
 
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