Kevin Brown Method

O

offcenter

New member
Yesterday I did my wifes 3 year old white Accord. The paint was was pretty neglected so I used Meguiars Paint Cleaner (all I could find yesterday) followed by 2 coats of AIO. My observations on Klasse for both my applications:



When I applied the AIO to my 6 month old Passat which has been kept up from day one, AIO when on easy, easy to remove but MF's left lint all over, so I used 100% cotton as a final buffing cloth. Followed with 3 coats of SG after letting each one "cure" for a week. Car looks awesome!



When I applied the AIO to the Accord, after using the paint cleaner, it took some buffing and removal was more difficult so I did another coat of AIO to remove excess contaminants, etc and it came out great. The strange thing is that I used the SAME MF towels that I used on the Passat (after washing of course) and they didn't lint at all! Weird.



Overall, I am quite happy with Klasse, no need to try anything else for a while.:up :up
 
I used AIO today on my 2001 Golf. Both coats went on and came off quite easily (thanks Yo' Steve for excellent instructions). I thought maybe I was using too much, but after both coats I had a definite half bottle left. I did notice my paint, though a new car, felt grainy in spots. Come Spring, I'll try a clay treatment.



I didn't have time for the SG today, but hope to get to it Wednesday, after washing the car first and perhaps applying more AIO.



Would the Pinnacle(?) Paint Conditioner Lotion help the finish?
 
A half bottle of AIO and SG for one coat??? Either you have a really small bottle or you are applying WAY too much! I have put on about 10 coats on different cars and have more than half a bottle left...



The grainy feeling areas would probably benefit by clay the most. Your car is relatively new and the finish should be in pretty good shape besides the contaminants that a clay bar would fix.



H
 
rad21, good deal with the AIO.



when I detailed my sis's neglected 4 year old white Rav 4 it took a few tries for the AIO to shine, but when we were done, it sparkled like new.



Unlike on your Passat (nice car :)), when you used it on the Accord you used it as a cleaner. That's why it's good to rinse out the applicator and wring it out frequently. It's also why I used the term "work in" for AIO. I tell people to do 2 work-ins of AIO and 3-5 coats of SG.
 
Originally posted by bigboyhf <strong class='bbc'>
A half bottle of AIO and SG for one coat??? Either you have a really small bottle or you are applying WAY too much!
H

Sorry. I neglected to mention I was using 2-oz. sample bottles.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by YoSteve.Com [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>rad21, good deal with the AIO.

when I detailed my sis's neglected 4 year old white Rav 4 it took a few tries for the AIO to shine, but when we were done, it sparkled like new.

Unlike on your Passat (nice car :)), when you used it on the Accord you used it as a cleaner. That's why it's good to rinse out the applicator and wring it out frequently. It's also why I used the term "work in" for AIO. I tell people to do 2 work-ins of AIO and 3-5 coats of SG. [/b]</blockquote>
Thanks to your advice Steve, I rinsed and wrung, wrang? the applicator frequently and "worked in" the AIO. Great advice! SG will follow soon... Thinking about SG layer 4 on the Passat though before I SG the Accord:D
 
Just so I'm sure, is the AIO still going on ok when you rinse the applicator towel a lot and you can hardly even see the AIO? Also, if AIO is water-soluble, why is rinsing its applicator ok, and why doesn't the AIO just wash off after a good rain or two?



Yo' Steve, Re: SG: Is the blue sponge applicator that came with the sample kit soft enough not to scratch the finish?
 
as long as you wring out an applicator you should have no problems, wring it out so it's almost dry



better damp applicator then rub dirty applicator on you paint anyday, it does dilute it a little but I think AIO is dilutable. Spread it over a larger space so that the water will evaporate faster then go over smaller parts.



All car sponges are technically not hard enough to scratch a cars finish. The reason why we don't use them is because when washing the car the dirt has no were to go so it scratches the paint.



But for SG its a differnt story. When using sponges to apply SG, you need not worry as long as the surface you're applying it to is dirt free (which it should be).



Finally, to check, sponged normally don't scratch CD's, which we can then say it won't scratch a car. (not the other way around though)
 
Where is the method documented? Another thought... it would be terrific to have a PDF export option for these wonderful write ups.
 
There is really no documentation on the KBM. Kevin has been working on putting the paper together. He has said right here on TID that his paper has been a work in progress. I know that it will be quite a long and in depth paper when he does come out with it.

You might want to do a google search on the KBM.

Good luck.
 
bmw5541 said:
There is really no documentation on the KBM. Kevin has been working on putting the paper together. He has said right here on TID that his paper has been a work in progress. I know that it will be quite a long and in depth paper when he does come out with it.

You might want to do a google search on the KBM.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

True! There is not one definitive thread that describes the KBM. Kevin has posted a couple links that have some good information. I'll try to find them and post here.
 
There is no step by step procedure available that is the KBM.

You are joining a long list of people that have asked that question. And wasted time searching for it.

The KBM is a method/theory of polishing, not a checklist.

Search for posts from Kevin (his profile name is "Kevin Brown") and you will find some long posts with some good information about how the pad, polish, and paint all react to one another. However, a concise summary is not there.

For what it's worth, here is how I would summarize the KBM. Using a DA polisher:

  1. Prime the pad with polish prior to use
  2. With the pad primed you have plenty of polish on the pad and will only need to add very small amounts of polish. A few pea sized dots
  3. Use varying pressure on the DA polisher as needed
  4. Heavier pressure to remove larger defects then ever lighter pressure to a finer finish
  5. Pressure should never be so great as to stop the DA from rotating
  6. Regular cleaning of the pad to prevent build up of polish

Other than that it's a "method". You need to react to what is happening to the finish and adjust your technique to what you see.
 
There really is no set date. The paper started out as a M105 / M86 handbook, but has really grown to include every part of polishing paint. It is not just about priming the pad and the KBM.

Kevin has been really busy with his website as of late. I wish I could let out a preview, but we'll save it for later.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top