Just got offered a boat detail...deer in the headlights look followed.

V

vecdran

New member
I need some advice Autopians. I recently got asked to quote a boat. It's some 23' foot beast or something of that nature. I've never done a boat before. I'm scared. :scared:



It has already been cleaned with marine wash, but my concern is the polishing...or as I'm rapidly reading, the compounding.



I currently use Menzerna polishes and Uber foam pads with a PC 7424XP. I am rapidly discovering, at least from the products suggested, that they won't cut it. (Pun intended.)



Do you guys think that Menzerna Power Gloss (which is what I have on hand) and a LC foamed wool pad would do it? I honestly haven't really look at the boat yet, so I don't know how bad the oxidation is, so who knows if I really will have to break out a rotary and a full wool pad.



Halp!



Boat newbie,

vec
 
you need a rotary to polish a boat. Especially one with oxidized gel coats. a D/A of any brand simply isn't powerful enough to do it properly. lots of wool pads. No foam.



Best advise..... Pass on the detail.
 
I like boat details as I get a great return on the work. You need a rotary if the boat has any oxidation. You need to see what condition the boat is in. You can do a light polishing with your PC, but use boat polishes. Just give yourself time to do your first couple of boats.



Cheers,

GREG
 
I agree with Greg, check and see the condition of the boat first. if it is heavily oxidized you should pass on it. boats a take long time so make sure you charge enough and plan on it taking longer than you think. I do not mind doing boats as I own a 20ft bass boat. have been use to taking care of them and knowing how long it takes to work on them and what to do if you run across one that has been neglected.
 
I've already told the owner that it will probably take me a solid week to do the boat, especially since it would be my first.



I believe the shop I will be doing this at has a rotary on hand, a Makita of some sort, I've just never used a rotary before.
 
vecdran said:
I've already told the owner that it will probably take me a solid week to do the boat, especially since it would be my first.



I believe the shop I will be doing this at has a rotary on hand, a Makita of some sort, I've just never used a rotary before.
Click to expand...



I also would suggest that you pass on the detail as previous posts suggested.



However if you are doing this at a shop and you have someone there with polishing experience, then you may be able to get them to help you. I would not try to learn how to use a rotary without some practice first. Typically a gel coat fiberglass boat will require higher RPMs than your typical car. This means that you have a higher potential of causing damage to the boat or yourself. In the end you know what you are capable of we can only give advice based upon best practices and experience.
 
Boats are fun but very time consuming. If you are having second thoughts pass on it but if you feel that you want to give it a go then do so 110%



Boats can be challenging and depending upon how bad of a condition the gel coat is in.



Boats don't always need wool pads to come out nice. Got a buddy who used a couple of LC Yellow pads and the boat came out great even with bad oxidation.



What you want to do is #1 get yourself some boat products. I suggest using:



Meguiars #67 1 Step Compound



that should take care of what you are about to tackle. Then you can top it with something of your choice.



I would go with something like Collinite #845



take your time, take some pics so you can check your work after and enjoy.
 
The only time I've ever used a orbital on a boat is to spread a LSP. A rotary is a must time and result wise. If you have never used a rotary I would advise that you pass on this one, but if the customer is willing to wait a few weeks for you to get some experience with one then it might be a good deal. With an investment of about $300 or so you will get a rotary and the products to do a boat and get the detail done and make an additional couple hundred bucks. Worst case you buy a buffer, some pads, a few different products and walk away from the deal with making nothing and losing nothing. You will however have a new rotary and the proper supplies to the next one and make the money you want. Bottom line, I would never try to learn to use a rotary on a customers car/ boat. I see that your in Mercer Island and I'm in Tacoma area and would be more than happy to help you out with some tips if interested.
 
So much for my fear, the PC did the job here! Test panel as follows.



boat_correction_test.jpg




Sorry for the quality, only had my cell camera on hand. The oxidation wasn't too bad, and I was able to correct it with one pass of Menzerna Power Gloss, then another with Menzerna SIP to finish, both on an Uber Orange Foam pad (medium cut pad).



I was really fearing for the worst, what with all of you telling me I need a rotary, but it looks like a DA will cut it on this job.



However,the other boat I looked at today...that's swirled to all hell, in addition to some pretty nasty oxidation, so that just might take a rotary.



Thanks for all of the advice gentlemen!



PS.

Any of you recommend a good marine specific sealant/wax for the hull? I hear Collinite would work pretty well, but I think investing in a small bottle of some marine grade stuff just for this job would probably be wise.
 
vecdran said:
I've already told the owner that it will probably take me a solid week to do the boat, especially since it would be my first.



I believe the shop I will be doing this at has a rotary on hand, a Makita of some sort, I've just never used a rotary before.
Click to expand...



Due yourself a favor and pass on the job! Its not how you want to learn to use a rotory!
 
Small update. While I didn't do the red boat I previously posted in pictures, I'm doing a boat starting tomorrow.



Unlike the red one, which needed barely any work, this is a giant beaten oxidized beast. Already have wool pads with a rotary and some cutting compounds and polish from a local fiberglass shop ready to go. This should be fun...
 
Never really understood the whole "Can't do a boat with a PC" thing. I did a 20' Invader with a PC and it came out great! I now use a FLEX for all my details and wouldn't hesitate to use it, and some PFW's, to tackle the gel coat on another boat.
 
mose said:
Never really understood the whole "Can't do a boat with a PC" thing. I did a 20' Invader with a PC and it came out great! I now use a FLEX for all my details and wouldn't hesitate to use it, and some PFW's, to tackle the gel coat on another boat.
Click to expand...



I guess it depends on the shape of the boat. I did an 86 SeaNyph and the PC would not put a dent in this thing. It REALLY needed to be wet sanded but the owner did not want that. I had to use a high speed and a heavy cut polish and pad.
 
So yeah, I ended up wet sanding the top of the boat, it was in pretty bad shape. Still finishing up my compounding and polishing on one half, but the top half that is done looks awesome. :) I'll try to take some pics tomorrow of the progress.



Gotta say, didn't expect to cut my rotary teeth on a boat, and with wool pads at that. At least I can't burn gel coat. :lol
 
My brother has 7 years of auto detailing, and 5 years of boat detailing/fiberglass work under his belt. I asked him a few weeks ago what the difference is, and he told me to just dive right in with an orbital, a wool pad and some compound. "Don't be afraid of it" he said. The gel coat is just that. A gel. It will take a LOT of abuse and come out looking great.

The only experience I have is with an orbital buffer and a foam pad on cars and trucks. I always tried to stay far away from the wool. I thought he was insane.

Did you do the top deck also?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top