Just got my Clearkote order, have some questions.

I

imported_Greg1

New member
Now obviously Clearkote is pretty new and we all have been amazed at what these products can do in the hands of Scottwax, so perhaps he can shed some light to a few of my questions.

1. I have a 92 black BMW that is in excellent condition, but like most black car owners, have some swirls. Does the VMW have enough abrasive ability to remove them or is it in a more strict sense a glaze that fills them? I have some Menzerna, 3M SMR, PPCL, GEPC, AIO- in what ways does VMW differ from these?

2. Would it be to my advantage to spray quick shine after I VMW and MW'ed, or just let it cure like Klasse SG?

3. Obviously Scottwax does everything by hand, but I prefer my PC. I assume I will apply the VMW by PC, but what about the MW? Most paste waxes I use I apply by hand, while most liquids I like to apply by PC w/ grey pad. What have you all found works best. Mucho thanks and I love you all!!:xyxthumbs
 
Here is my experience with the products and a PC on a black Corvette.



1- VM will remove scratches. it's very mild and removes as well as slightly fills in scratches and swirls. I found using a cutting pad (orange or yellow) gives the best results. A white or grey pad is just not strong enought when used with a PC. A note here is that the PC is so safe to use, it's just about impossible to mess up with any pad and VM. Start with a white on and check your results.



2- Moose Wax does not need to 'cure' per se. It's complete upon application. You my use Quik Shine right away or wait, the choice is yours. I have done it both way.



Hope this helps, the producst are great, just as ScottWax :)
 
1. If you have deep swirls or scratches, I'd use an swirl remover first.



2. Like COEX-PILOT said, you can apply Vanilla Moose with a PC. Same with Moose Wax if you want.



3. Follow with Quikshine.



FYI-Vanilla Moose will protect the paint. I noticed the bottles I got said 'Vanilla Moose Wax Hand Glaze on them, and Everett confirmed you can stop at Vanilla Moose and your paint will not need to be waxed again for 90 days. Now I know why it leaves the paint so super slick! Topped with Moose Wax and Quikshine and it looks amazing.



BTW, the shop I buy Vanilla Moose at already had to reorder it because they are selling it so fast!
 
God bless obsession!! I cannot wait to try the goods because I am sick of using Klasse on customer's cars, so I'm looking for a switch and this seems to be a pretty cost effective product. I love Klasse to death because of the protection, but it doesn't give me the depth and clarity that I would like to see on my customers cars. Once I try it out, I will post some pics. Thanks to everybody.
 
I am reading lots of threads about VMW and MW. I am just curious how I would work it into my BF routine. I typically use BF on my car but would like to try soemthing else. I would imagine that the VMW would strip the BF. would BF bond over VMW?
 
dengsxr said:
I am reading lots of threads about VMW and MW. I am just curious how I would work it into my BF routine. I typically use BF on my car but would like to try soemthing else. I would imagine that the VMW would strip the BF. would BF bond over VMW?
Click to expand...



I have Blackfire as well and the ClearKote products do not fit! The Blackfire polish is quite different from Vanilla Moose. VM and MW are not the same kind of polymer wax/polish as the BF and Zaino.



My only complaint with Blackfire was that is seemed to 'sweat' after a few days and needed some buffing with a dry MF towel. I do not have that problem at all with the ClearKote products.
 
Thanks for the address COex



I was not aware I could use the Vanilla Moose on rubber trims. I think this quality is important because it saaves time and is much cleaner than unecessarily using rubber restorer. I believe that the oils in the Vanilla Moose will outlast any rubber treatment



Thanks again,

Ryan
 
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