Jeweling with the Flex?

A

Alexshimshimhae

New member
Is it doable? what products/pads do you use? and what speeds?

For some reason I feel like jewelings a Rotary specific thing...



and thinking i'll apply glaze by flex via red LC CCS... any thoughts?
 
Alexshimshimhae said:
what about pressure wise? do i just let the weight of the machine do it's thing? or do i have to push down like with the compound step?
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Light to med pressure until the 85rd breaks down and then no pressure.
 
Not just a rotary thing; I do most of mine (when I bother ;) ) with the Cyclo. Pressure/etc. depends on the product and all the other factors, but I often use basically zero applied pressure even on the Audis. IMO (and different people see this stuff differently) this step is doing work that's basically microscopic and I want it to be as gentle as possible while still accomplishing a little something.



So no, I don't think you'll see *much* of a difference, but by the time you start jeweling/burnishing it should alreadly look perfect. I can hardly ever see a difference that I can really verbalize, it's just that the overall vehicle looks "different" in a positive way, at least in the right lighting and when taken as a whole. Note that you gotta be careful to avoid "seeing what you want to see" ;)
 
Alexshimshimhae said:
lol is there a diff between applying a glaze and jeweling?
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Yes, when jeweling or burnishing (different terms for basically the same process) you are trying to take leveling the paint to the furthest possible level. You are using a polish with the (theoretically) the smallest abrasives to level the paint to the finest degree and you are using the softest pad so as not to leave pad abrasion. Once you are finished jeweling you clean all of the polish off. When applying a glaze on the other hand, you are putting a production on the paint for it to stay. The glaze is meant to give the paint a wetter and "deeper" look.
 
THanks a ton for clearing that up! is there anything i shoudl oook out for glazes when applying sealant's or waxes? or are they pretty much lsp/sealant safe
 
Alexshimshimhae said:
THanks a ton for clearing that up! is there anything i shoudl oook out for glazes when applying sealant's or waxes? or are they pretty much lsp/sealant safe
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Relatively few glazes work OK with sealants. DWG is the most notable exception and it does work fine with most anything. Until recently, glazes were strictly for use with waxes or by themselves.



But you could probably get by just fine without any glazes, especially if you have SRP on hand.



Only time I've used glazes since forever is on fresh repaints (traditional glazes are fresh-paint-friendly); got some DWG back before Bob went out of business, but so far it's just sat there on the shelf.



For that matter, you could probably forget about jeweling/burnishing and never have any worries. Not like "normal people" will ever notice it anyhow, and one "regular" or "normal" wash will more than undo any such effect. No reason to be concerned with microscopic issues when most people can't even notice or maintain macroscopic standards.
 
Accumulator said:
Not just a rotary thing; I do most of mine (when I bother ;) ) with the Cyclo. Pressure/etc. depends on the product and all the other factors, but I often use basically zero applied pressure even on the Audis. IMO (and different people see this stuff differently) this step is doing work that's basically microscopic and I want it to be as gentle as possible while still accomplishing a little something.



So no, I don't think you'll see *much* of a difference, but by the time you start jeweling/burnishing it should alreadly look perfect. I can hardly ever see a difference that I can really verbalize, it's just that the overall vehicle looks "different" in a positive way, at least in the right lighting and when taken as a whole. Note that you gotta be careful to avoid "seeing what you want to see" ;)
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Have you tried Ultrafina with a blue 3M pad @ 1800 rpms? I ask because maybe im seeing what I want to see. LOL
 
When I have run it at speed 5 medium pressure (the pad is firmly against the paint) and then backing off the pressure slightly as it clears. It has a nice transition on the flex to clear. The amount of time depends mainly depends on how much polish you use. I have used a 20 x 20 work area.
 
i guess the jeweling would've been more for me and for maybe my finickiest 'customers' =]



if i jewel, theoretically, when i put down a sealant or wax, it should help it stand out a bit more right?
 
Legacy99 said:
Have you tried Ultrafina with a blue 3M pad @ 1800 rpms? I ask because maybe im seeing what I want to see. LOL
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Nah, I've never tried Ultrafina and I've never tried burnishing via rotary; I'm not gonna risk instilling any holograms no matter what anybody says about how it won't happen with certain combos.



For that matter, I dunno if I'll ever use my rotaries again anyhow.
 
Accumulator said:
Nah, I've never tried Ultrafina and I've never tried burnishing via rotary; I'm not gonna risk instilling any holograms no matter what anybody says about how it won't happen with certain combos.



For that matter, I dunno if I'll ever use my rotaries again anyhow.
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DOWN WITH ROTARIES~~!!!! (maybe i'll mess around with it on my beater car...but after seeing how the DA's are working these days...doubt I'll really ever use it like that)
 
Alexshimshimhae said:
if i jewel, theoretically, when i put down a sealant or wax, it should help it stand out a bit more right?
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IME the LSP doesn't add much, if anything at that point, but rather just protects what you've accomplished. Using the "wrong" (scare-quotes intentional) LSP will hide any such benefits too. No point burnishing something to the nth degree and then putting Collinite on it IMO.



To repeat: *IMO* 99% of the time this burnishing stuff shouldn't even come to mind, much less be worth doing.
 
Accumulator said:
IME the LSP doesn't add much, if anything at that point, but rather just protects what you've accomplished. Using the "wrong" (scare-quotes intentional) LSP will hide any such benefits too. No point burnishing something to the nth degree and then putting Collinite on it IMO.



To repeat: *IMO* 99% of the time this burnishing stuff shouldn't even come to mind, much less be worth doing.
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That's what I was getting at Accum I just wanted to make sure that the LSP I used didn't make the work i put into it moot(after reading the thread about collinite not being as clear as another lsp had me concerned). But I guess if I'm ganna collinite it anyways, maybe I'll have to look up an lsp that is jewel/burnish friendly (luckily for me I probably wont be doing it all too often)
 
Alexshimshimhae said:
That's what I was getting at Accum I just wanted to make sure that the LSP I used didn't make the work i put into it moot(after reading the thread about collinite not being as clear as another lsp had me concerned). But I guess if I'm ganna collinite it anyways, maybe I'll have to look up an lsp that is jewel/burnish friendly (luckily for me I probably wont be doing it all too often)
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Even though it might (and I do mean just *might*) render any burnishing moot, don't underestimate how nice the Collinite can look if you do the underlying prep properly.



FWIW, I used UPP on the (silver) S8 after I burnished it, and yeah...it was quite impressive. Literally blinding in bright sunlight, the dazzle from the metallic and the bright refelctions were so intense you actually couldn't inspect it right in natural lighting.
 
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