Jeweling paint.

S

sacdetailing

New member
What kind of polishes should be used in this process? i know about 85rd, i have one, but i need to know for colors silver, yellow, white, etc. what pads and what polishes? thanks for support.
 
85RD or 3M Ultrafine (Ulrafina) on the least agressive pad you can find. 3M makes a special pad for Ulrafine (no idea what's special about it).
 
sacdetailing said:
What kind of polishes should be used in this process? i know about 85rd, i have one, but i need to know for colors silver, yellow, white, etc. what pads and what polishes? thanks for support.
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Color of paint shouldn't make a difference, though on most lighter colors you may not see the benefit as much.



PO85RD and UF are my go to polishes for jeweling. Pad choice will vary with the hardness of the paint.
 
RaskyR1 said:
Color of paint shouldn't make a difference, though on most lighter colors you may not see the benefit as much....Pad choice will vary with the hardness of the paint.
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Agree, with the exception of the bit about not noticing on light colors (hey, I'm always doing silver...).



The choice of pad, and to some degree product, does indeed depend on the hardness of the paint. But since (what I consider) burnishing/jeweling is only done *after* all the "regular correction" (i.e, after the finish is already defect-free to the extent that you're gonna get it) the combos should be very mild, even on hard paint.



Being stuck in the Dark Ages, I do my (very infrequent ;) ) burnishing with different products than many here use. 1Z High Gloss works well on hard clear and at the other end of the aggressiveness spectrum so does 1Z Pro MP (note that one leaves stuff behind).



I've never burnished my softer paint cars (see exception below), but I'd probably use Menzerna FPII for that, on some kind of finishing pad.



FWIW, I'm not convinced that there are, necessarily, dramatic functional differences between the various finishing pads, at least not any diffs beyond personal preference-type factors (e.g., I generally like sorta porous pads). The idea is to use pads with zero cut.



On the Jag (fairly soft ss metallic lacquer), I get the marring as good as I'm comfortable with (thin, fragile, old paint..) and then I go at it with Autoglym SRP. Yeah, that stuff fills and acts like a glaze, but it also has a tiny bit of cut. So *IMO* it effectively burnishes the finish to some degree. The way I see it, it's a pretty fine line between "true burnishing" and sorta-burnishing where there is also some glazing-type effect going on. *IMO* it's not all that big a deal which way you do it, because that "microscopically perfect" jeweled effect simply won't last all that long if the vehicle is actually used...and *washed*...in the real world.
 
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