Jescar Glaze, your thoughts?

Scrapyard

New member
Did a paint correction on a 04 Ford Expedition (black) yesterday. For initial cut I used Griot`s BOSS Fast Correcting Cream on a 7" rotary with a Buff and Shine orange cutting pad. The Griot`s did a great job as usual, but there were a few swirls so I grabbed the Jescar Top Coat Glaze (had it for a while, never really tried it), and a finish pad. It seems the Jescar did more damage than good. No matter what speed, or amount of product I used the swirls were terrible. I ended up going back and hitting it with my G-21 da, and the Griot`s again due to a time crunch.
So my question is has anyone had similar results with the Jescar or is it just me?
 
I`m sorry to hear that the Top Finish Glaze did not work in your application. Generally I would suggest the Jescar Micro Finishing Polish to eliminate any minor swirls, haze, holograms, etc. If you would like to try the MFP get in touch with me at Jescar and I`ll send you a sample. Email office@jescar.com
 
The swirls were most likely from the cutting step with the fast correction cream/orange pad on rotary. My guess (just going off the name) is that the Jescar glaze is nothing more than a filler (no cutting ability) and is unable to clean up the holograms left from the rotary. As said above, the finishing polish may be more what you need.
 
The swirls were most likely from the cutting step with the fast correction cream/orange pad on rotary. My guess (just going off the name) is that the Jescar glaze is nothing more than a filler (no cutting ability) and is unable to clean up the holograms left from the rotary. As said above, the finishing polish may be more what you need.

That`s kinda what I thought, but it seemed to leave swirls where there weren`t any before. I`m going to try it on a different application to see what happens.
 
Scrapyard- Did you contact Jeff at Jescar for a sample of their Finishing Polish? I thought that was great how he chimed in and offered to help. I don`t know from Jescar, but that made a really positive impression on me.
 
Scrapyard- Did you contact Jeff at Jescar for a sample of their Finishing Polish? I thought that was great how he chimed in and offered to help. I don`t know from Jescar, but that made a really positive impression on me.

Yes I did, I`m impressed as well. Seems like a good guy. I`m excited to see how the polish works.
Tried the glaze again today. Customer took his new pickup down a deer trail on a hunting trip. It sustained some pretty extensive scratches. I had to do 2 stages of water sanding, 3D HD cut on the rotary, Griot`s Fast on the G-21, then Jescar Glaze on a polishing pad. It performed considerably better, didn`t make a huge difference, but didn`t leave the swirls like previously. I`m going to keep trying it on different applications.
 
Scrapyard- Ah, good, that sounds like positive developments all-around.

Heh heh, that customer better just get a Huntin` Truck or he`s gonna run out of clearcoat fast!
 
Scrapyard- Ah, good, that sounds like positive developments all-around.

Heh heh, that customer better just get a Huntin` Truck or he`s gonna run out of clearcoat fast!

No doubt, I told him if this was going to be regular occurrence we need to really consider a coating, but even that isn`t going to protect to the extent he went to acquire a deer. He assured me that this is a one time thing, but likes the idea of a coating anyway.
 
Scrapyard- Hopefully he learned his lesson about how fragile (and thin) his paint is. Selling him on a coating might be good for both of you as long as it doesn`t cost you in the sense of not getting paid to reLSP it all the time.
 
That`s kinda what I thought, but it seemed to leave swirls where there weren`t any before. I`m going to try it on a different application to see what happens.

Hello Scrapyard !

In my experience, glazes are always something that is applied -after- the correction stage/s, and is only going to help hide any very minor issues that were not solved during the correction stage..

We used those things 50 years ago in the Paint Shop I was working in. And only after correction was completed, to give the paint an even more smooth, slick, wet-paint-look..
The product of choice was Meguiars Nbr-7 Glaze..

Believe that any hard working of a glaze will only heat it up too much, and cause it to do weird things in the paintwork, as what happened to you..

I believe that Jescar product you used might have been called Menzerna PowerLock Polymer Sealant, a long time ago, no ? If it is in fact the case, I still have that Menzerna product and I only used it after all the correction work was done and the Client did not want anything else more expensive done to the Paintwork.. It was applied by hand, looked great, probably lasted a few weeks, and then was gone..

Dan F
 
Scrapyard- Hopefully he learned his lesson about how fragile (and thin) his paint is. Selling him on a coating might be good for both of you as long as it doesn`t cost you in the sense of not getting paid to reLSP it all the time.

That`s a good point, I look at it like if he likes the coating, then he`s going to tell his friends and family. That means new customers.
 
Hello Scrapyard !

In my experience, glazes are always something that is applied -after- the correction stage/s, and is only going to help hide any very minor issues that were not solved during the correction stage..

We used those things 50 years ago in the Paint Shop I was working in. And only after correction was completed, to give the paint an even more smooth, slick, wet-paint-look..
The product of choice was Meguiars Nbr-7 Glaze..

Believe that any hard working of a glaze will only heat it up too much, and cause it to do weird things in the paintwork, as what happened to you..

I believe that Jescar product you used might have been called Menzerna PowerLock Polymer Sealant, a long time ago, no ? If it is in fact the case, I still have that Menzerna product and I only used it after all the correction work was done and the Client did not want anything else more expensive done to the Paintwork.. It was applied by hand, looked great, probably lasted a few weeks, and then was gone..

Dan F

Dan, that is some great advice. I think the 7" rotary was probably too much. Old habits are hard to break, we always used a glaze at the car lots to do a quick shine, and send it down the road. I tend to get a little freaked out when something isn`t going like I think it should, then start throwing anything in the arsenal at it instead of stepping back and analyze why things are going wrong. Then proceed with a well thought out solution.
 
Dan, that is some great advice. I think the 7" rotary was probably too much. Old habits are hard to break, we always used a glaze at the car lots to do a quick shine, and send it down the road. I tend to get a little freaked out when something isn`t going like I think it should, then start throwing anything in the arsenal at it instead of stepping back and analyze why things are going wrong. Then proceed with a well thought out solution.

Scrapyard,
Thanks for your reply !
I am a Rotary Power guy since I was a kid, so I relate to everything you said. :)

From the youngest years of a dark red Dupont Compound in a can with green lettering (1958), to the newest correction products of today..

Probably the best thing I ever learned from all those decades going forward was that the products for some time now, need less and less speed, and occasional moisture sprays to get great results the first time.. I also like to put extra downward pressure on the work the entire time, to get the correction part done faster, and then lighten up to finish polish the area at the end..

I left the big backing plates ( 6"+) long ago reserved for big things like airplanes, long vans, etc., and pretty much use the 5" pad/backing plate process for everything..
I also keep a spacer on the Rotary to give me that extra length to get that pad (all the way down to 1" size), into those small places, the glass, etc...

If you worked on car lots prepping the incoming inventory, I know what that is too.. You only have so much time in minutes, to get the vehicle looking good, over and over, and over.. :)

Once I had a guy who did that job, show me how "fast" he was, by turning on the speed to pretty fast, putting the -Edge- of the wool pad on the paint, and going up and down the hood really fast.. :(:(:(
The Swirl-O-Matic technique ! :) I was never taught that technique and am so much better for it.. :)

If you still use Rotary Power exclusively, there might just be -2- of us that do so now on this Forum ! :) :) :)
Love it !!!
Dan F
 
I`m sorry to hear that the Top Finish Glaze did not work in your application. Generally I would suggest the Jescar Micro Finishing Polish to eliminate any minor swirls, haze, holograms, etc. If you would like to try the MFP get in touch with me at Jescar and I`ll send you a sample. Email office@jescar.com

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Got a couple samples in the mail today.
Thanks Jeff from Jescar, I’m going to try them in a few days.


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