Jeff Werkstatt

SVR said:
Prime is definately best by machine but it's quite a dry product and will leave holograms if you work it too long

Don't go past 1200 with it either.



AJT cannot be machine applied but AJ non trigger can be machined with a black or blue LC pad on front and rear bumpers and will turn to clear plastic and make the finish super slick. Adds great protection that way



It will not work on other body panels though.
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Ahh Ive applied AJT with a PC before just fine. You can do it it just defeats the purpose of AJT.
 
bert31 said:
So when you put Prime Strong on the pad, you put about the same amount as if you were putting on polish? A circle around the pad for the first application and then a few pea sized dabs on the pad after that?
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Even with the first use of the pad, only a few pea sized dabs is necessary. If Prime is not pretty much disappearing after 3-4 50% overlapping passes (I use speed 5), you are using too much product.
 
Scottwax said:
Even with the first use of the pad, only a few pea sized dabs is necessary. If Prime is not pretty much disappearing after 3-4 50% overlapping passes (I use speed 5), you are using too much product.
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Thanks Scott.



At what times do you decide to use Prime as your base for AJT versus times when you use Poli-Seal as your base AJT? I was under the assumption you always used Poli-Seal as your base when using AJT and and Pink Moose as you base for using Moose Wax.
 
Yes you can do it but it will just continue to spread whereas normal AJ will turn into a clear plastic at low speeds. AJT for me just kept spreading like water
 
midwesterner said:
Its been a few weeks since I receieved my JW products and I thought I would ask a few questions to the experts:



1) Do you use a PC when you are applying Prime Strong?



2) Do you use a PC when using AJ-T?



I used a foam pad and applied the Prime Strong by hand. I think I put a bit too much but realized that if I kept working it into the paint, it was not a big deal. I then buffed it out with my microfiber towel and used AJ-T. AJ-T was pretty easy to remove with a microfiber towel.



Overall I am pretty happy with this combo. I think I may be able to get better results if I dont cake on the Prime so much. I was also VERY impressed when I topped the AJ-T with some Z-8. That really gave me the pop I was looking for. I would strongly suggest this combo to anyone on the fence....



Thanks!
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Just to add more. I used Prime Strong on my wheels last weekend and it gave the wheels a nice look. I then sealed with Acrylic Jett. I am sure Trigger would have done just as well.
 
I don't know why you wouldn't apply another coat of AJT instead of some other LDP until you get at least 2 or 3 layers of AJT. Nothing will be any easier to use and you may decide it doesn't need another LSP. Then you can just periodically add another layer after washing from time to time to maintain the look with minimal effort. Of course I perfectly understand the NEED to use multiple products much more often than actually necessary.
 
I did the Prime by UDM - finishin pad speed 3-4 and lightly worked it 3-4 times.



i did the AJT as described already with a MF cloth and quick wipe and turn it over to buff. I just keep layering it up and use the Glos from time to time once I have a decent number of layers. Going to get some Z8 to try over the top of it for a bit of extra wetness this time...
 
I was big into Zaino several years ago, migrated to Duragloss, now been working with JW. AJT is the easiest to use. like all there might be a slight learning curve to get it down. I suck at describing gloss and wetness and depth, blah blah. on our white WRX the AJT IMO looks better than DG 105 did. I tried danase wet glaze on the car as well and the AJT also looks better.



IMO looks fantastic on our black VW beetle convt., I did however use a coat of danase wet glaze (works with acrylics).



looks great again IMO on our metallic blue Honda CR-V.



I have yet to try it on our red Honda Civic, DG 111 looks good on it, and currently I tried OCW and it looks very nice too.



the AJT is just easy, easy, easy. I mean it is virtually WOWA, at times you miss some and have to wipe off the haze, but it just works right into the paint. price is reasonable too.
 
Rob Tomlin said:
How does JW compare to other sealants in terms of gloss and wetness?
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Did a side-by-side yesterday of AJ vs. KSG on a white metallic Lexus. Couldn't tell any difference (I know, not great choice of car, but it's what we had available.)



On gold, platinum and black cars, I think UPP has both more gloss and wetness than AJ.
 
zzzzdoc said:
Did a side-by-side yesterday of AJ vs. KSG on a white metallic Lexus. Couldn't tell any difference (I know, not great choice of car, but it's what we had available.)



On gold, platinum and black cars, I think UPP has both more gloss and wetness than AJ.
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Thank you Mr. z! :cool:
 
bert31 said:
Thanks Scott.



At what times do you decide to use Prime as your base for AJT versus times when you use Poli-Seal as your base AJT? I was under the assumption you always used Poli-Seal as your base when using AJT and and Pink Moose as you base for using Moose Wax.
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I use Prime when the paint really doesn't need any correction. If it does, to save a step, I just use Poli-Seal with an orange cutting pad.
 
I agree with Scott. I finished a silver metallic Nissan Versa with AJ over Poli-Seal 5 days ago. Looks wetter than the Autoglym Twins (Super Resin Polish & Extra Gloss Protection).



It's been raining every morning here due to monsoon season, so water spots are more common than usual. But I can clean the spots off by using flowing water only. Previously with Autoglym, I had to use a jet of water to clean the car and sometimes the spots can't be removed using this method.



So far I am happy with this combo :bigups
 
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