Jeff Werkstatt

I

imported_midwesterner

New member
Its been a few weeks since I receieved my JW products and I thought I would ask a few questions to the experts:



1) Do you use a PC when you are applying Prime Strong?



2) Do you use a PC when using AJ-T?



I used a foam pad and applied the Prime Strong by hand. I think I put a bit too much but realized that if I kept working it into the paint, it was not a big deal. I then buffed it out with my microfiber towel and used AJ-T. AJ-T was pretty easy to remove with a microfiber towel.



Overall I am pretty happy with this combo. I think I may be able to get better results if I dont cake on the Prime so much. I was also VERY impressed when I topped the AJ-T with some Z-8. That really gave me the pop I was looking for. I would strongly suggest this combo to anyone on the fence....



Thanks!
 
midwesterner said:
1) Do you use a PC when you are applying Prime Strong??
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I don't believe you have to but it probably gives better results that way.



midwesterner said:
2) Do you use a PC when using AJ-T?
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As far as I have read, AJ-T is only meant to be sprayed on, hand buffed in, and wiped off. No DA needed.
 
I apply Prime Strong with a PC, polishing pad, and speed 4. Spread it very thin, then work it in overlapping passes until it kind of disappears into the paint. Leave it on for 30 minutes and if it removes very easy.



AJT I just spread with a MF, flip and buff and your done. I don't see any advantage to use PC, it's so easy WOWO.
 
smprince1 said:
I apply Prime Strong with a PC, polishing pad, and speed 4. Spread it very thin, then work it in overlapping passes until it kind of disappears into the paint. Leave it on for 30 minutes and if it removes very easy.



AJT I just spread with a MF, flip and buff and your done. I don't see any advantage to use PC, it's so easy WOWO.
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Thanks SMPRINCE. When you work it in with a polishing pad and use just a small amount, you say that it disappears into the paint. Do you have to buff off any excess with a MF towel? It seems like there would be nothing to wipe off???
 
midwesterner said:
Do you have to buff off any excess with a MF towel? It seems like there would be nothing to wipe off???
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Well, there isn't much but there is a thin layer of hazed product to remove. If it's thin it wipes off very effortlessly after 30 minutes. I'd guess I use 1 oz or less per vehicle.
 
smprince1 said:
Well, there isn't much but there is a thin layer of hazed product to remove. If it's thin it wipes off very effortlessly after 30 minutes. I'd guess I use 1 oz or less per vehicle.
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So when you put Prime Strong on the pad, you put about the same amount as if you were putting on polish? A circle around the pad for the first application and then a few pea sized dabs on the pad after that?
 
1) So apply Prime with PC, remove by hand? Would that be what you would do?



2) How about AJ (not AJT)? Would you apply by hand or machine? And remove by hand or machine?
 
MrAP said:
1) So apply Prime with PC, remove by hand would be what you use?
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What would I use to remove it? I would use a buffing MF but I guess I polising MF would work also.



MrAP said:
2) How about AJ (not AJT)? Would you apply by hand or machine? And remove by hand or machine?
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Instructions on the bottle say something along the lines of "Apply by hand with foam applicator." If you prefer to apply with a DA, you should get fine result if you use a black or blue pad. To buff it off, I would use a buffing MF.
 
Thanks bert31. I did it all by hand last time and decided to get the UDM so I could do it better/quicker and with less aches and pains!



P.S. I have corrected my post above so I'm guessing your answer will be different now! (Sorry!)
 
MrAP said:
P.S. I have corrected my post above so I'm guessing your answer will be different now! (Sorry!)
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Yes it would. I would apply Prime or Prime Strong with either a white pad or a black pad depending on how much correction I need. I would then buff it off with a buffying towel.



MrAP said:
Thanks bert31. I did it all by hand last time and decided to get the UDM so I could do it better/quicker and with less aches and pains!
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When it comes to applying Prime or Prime Strong, I will use my UDM. When it comes to Acrylic Jett, I do it by hand. As far as the less aches and pains, here are two suggestions I learned from ScottWax. 1) Use less product. Acrylic Jett goes a long way. Put it on too thick, get ready for a good workout 2) Don't simply spread it on the surface. Keep working it in for a minute or two till the product disappears. If you do that, buffing it off will be a breeze and you will have no aches and pains.
 
Why apply a lsp product knowing your going to have to top it (Z-8) to get a better look? Something is just not right here.
 
MDRX8 said:
Why apply a lsp product knowing your going to have to top it (Z-8) to get a better look? Something is just not right here.
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Why would you have to top it with Z-8? JW AJ has a great look by itself. If you are really particular, I guess you could follow AJ with Acrylic Gloss to spruce up the gloss of AJ. However, I have been very satisfied with AJ alone.
 
Thats a good one. If I had so little faith my LSP Vintage was not going to give the look I wanted, I would not have purchased it. The only thing that goes on top is a QEW, Zymol Detail, or Field Glaze. No synthetics. Good try.



NSXTASY said:
I would top Vintage with Z8.



Z8 > * :doh
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I agree. +1



bert31 said:
Why would you have to top it with Z-8? JW AJ has a great look by itself. If you are really particular, I guess you could follow AJ with Acrylic Gloss to spruce up the gloss of AJ. However, I have been very satisfied with AJ alone.
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I apply Prime Acrylic with PC and a black finishing pad. After removing the Prime Arylic, AJ by hand with a damp foam applicator.



AJ has a great look in itself. I use it all the time. :)
 
I have really been into using it lately on a few of my vehicles. really easy to use, looks fantastic too, easy washes with ONR weekly
 
Prime is definately best by machine but it's quite a dry product and will leave holograms if you work it too long

Don't go past 1200 with it either.



AJT cannot be machine applied but AJ non trigger can be machined with a black or blue LC pad on front and rear bumpers and will turn to clear plastic and make the finish super slick. Adds great protection that way



It will not work on other body panels though.
 
altez said:
What can you top AJT with - if you wanted a refresh after a wash? Would AW work?
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You could go with Acrylic Glos, a carnauba, or just AJT again, basically any sealant would work. If you use a carnauba, you cannot use a sealant afterwards. Well, and have good durability, and any issues of properly bonding.
 
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