IW Haze reappearing

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ernman

Member
I waxed my wife's car w/ IW, after going over it w/ VM RMG. I have used this combo before and have not had any problems, but last night I removed the wax from the car, the went back for a check over and the hood had a haze to it. I wiped it off again. Today we were gone all day, again the hood appeared to have a haze to it. I got out the S&W and removed it. Has this happened to anyone else? It only seems to happen on the hood.
 
I had this same problem dude. It was an SL amg and the hood used to heat up after it was driven hard, plus it gets a lot of direct sunlight. I concluded that waxes with mineal oil in them actually melted. I am not sure if IW means Ice Wax? But that stuff is extrmely oily(lots o shine, no stamina). Do you have a synthetic selant you can do a comparisson with? That solvd my problem, maybe it is the same thing happening on yor car...
 
I would bet he is referring to Collinite's Insulator Wax #845.



I have had this problem before, and it was due to removing the wax too quickly. Hazing, or as Accumulator would call it "pseudo-holograms," occurs with a few Collinite waxes.



I had it happen on my hood, and hood alone. The problem was fixed when I remove it and reapplied on the hood when it was cool, out of the sun, and I allowed it to dry. I have a few other waxes, but this has primarily occurred while using Collinite waxes.
 
I have used 845IW on black and white woth out issue. I drive my car hard and never had a haze on the black. I would bet that ot was someting you topped it with. 845IW is one of the best waxes I know for slickness, easy on off, and durability. I have only recently been playing with sealants to experiment with a better more correct optical reflection from black. The jury is still out for me but it come down to what YOU like better on your car.(or what your client wants in the case of professionals)
 
ya, had the same happen to me. I applied under full sun on hot black paint. I couldnt even buff it off. I ended up using 3M automotive Wax and adhesive remover aerosol to get it off the paint. Always apply wax on cool paint in the shade!
 
Until the OP specifically identifies the product, this is all ranlk conjecture. Half the people are talking about Collinite, the other half Turtle Wax.
 
i have used 845 for over 37 years without issues. most people apply it way to heavily and do not let it dry completely. i have seen the "hazing" on dark colors when not properly applied (too much, in the sun and/or on a hot surface). when you apply it and think that you do not have enough material on the surface, you probibly have it just right. FWIW.
 
Noting that yeah...we're guessing that IW= 845, I've never had this problem with that particular wax :think: Yeah, I've had weird issues with Collinite paste waxes, but not 845.



I suspect it's related to the underlying products. Not like every combo works the same on every paint/vehicle (no, I don't know why that is).
 
I did use insulator wax and the car was done in the garage, and it is just on the hood, the rest of the car is fine.
 
ernman said:
I did use insulator wax and the car was done in the garage, and it is just on the hood, the rest of the car is fine.
Click to expand...



Maybe it's heat-related; things happen on the hood/bonnet of my Jag that don't happen anywhere else on that car.
 
jimmie jam said:
i have used 845 for over 37 years without issues. most people apply it way to heavily and do not let it dry completely. i have seen the "hazing" on dark colors when not properly applied (too much, in the sun and/or on a hot surface). when you apply it and think that you do not have enough material on the surface, you probibly have it just right. FWIW.
Click to expand...



I've read from many detailers on autopia that waxes should be applied so thin you can barely see it. Does this only apply to certain waxes that are known to be difficult to remove like 845 IW?



Mike phillips wrote a terrificly helpful article on how to proper apply a wax thinly. With great pictures to support.



"So what's too thick, and what's thin enough? Look at the picture below - on the left side is a thin coat of wax, on the right is a heavy coat of the exact same wax. Too heavy. Far too heavy. Do NOT let your car look like the right side of this test panel next time you wax." -Mike



light_heavy_waxapp.jpg


How to tell if your wax is dry - The Swipe Test - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online



But speaking of applying wax so thin you can barely notice its even there, the wax on the left is still quite visible.



I'm conflicted and would like to know if applying wax so thin you can barely notice its even there is only meant for more so called "difficult to remove waxes"?



Input appreaciated...
 
the application on the left is still a little to heavy, IMO. only a certain amount of product bonds to the surface no matter how much you apply. the heavy applications are a waste of time, effort and money. here is a "poor" example if i might - if the surface is not prepaired properly paint does not adhere well. does it make any difference if you put seven coats of paint on a surface (or one heavy coat as opposed to a light coat) that is not prepaired well? only the part of the paint against the part is bonding, not the "top" of the paint surface. in other words, thickness of an application doesn't mean that any more of the product has bonded to the surface. that has been my experience with 845, how thin can you go works for me - on any product.
 
Humidity, coupled with applying to much product sounds like the problem to me. When you apply product, act like you paid $10,000 for your product. You should apply your product so thin you should hardly be able to see it. If you still have a haze, give it a wipe down with ice cold water
 
Same opinion here, I thought to myself "Wow, both those applications are *WAY* too thick!" The one on the right is like an example of what somebody might do as a weird experiment, and even the one on the left is *FAR* heavier than I'd ever apply any LSP...not even close to thin enough IMO.



I think of LSPs as bonding at the molecular level...what you can actually see is all getting buffed away. OK, that's a bit of an exaggeration, but try that mindset and see if things don't go better.
 
I keep thinking that this just *has* to be related to some sort of too-aggressive application. Yeah, I'm just guessing, but it sure sounds like either that or some issue with an underlying product (if one was used). I've had this happen from both causes with paste waxes (#16 and 476S), just never with 845. My niece-in-law uses 845 in Memphis, and that's one hot/humid environment...zero problems for her but she's doing it by hand.
 
Aliright...makes sense. From now on... I will be even more meticulous and diligent in applying a nearly invisible coat of wax. I think for many of us visual cues, play a strong role in the presence of wax coated on the paint. It makes us feel like "Okay, I got it on there." Applying it "whisper thin" is just so counter-intuitive that I guess many of us, if not just me, easily overlook it.
 
mystickid- Oh, yeah, absolutely! It can take some geniune self-discipline to *not* apply that reassuringly thick coat of LSP.
 
Also, skip applying in a circular motion. Start in the center of each panel, using broad strokes, working your way top the edges. This will also help you control the amount of product you are applying
 
Also, skip applying in a circular motion. Start in the center of each panel, using broad strokes, working your way to the edges. This will also help you control the amount of product you are applying
 
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