issues to learn from thread!

Envious Eric

New member
*TAPING A CAR FOR PAINT CORRECTION WORK*

occasionally I have trouble getting tape to stick, and always reached for the green tape in said situation...not anymore!



I figured out the problem!



I alway use 1:1 megs last touch for clay lube. Well, if you dont IPA or wash the car again, the tape will not stick, or stick well enough to run a buffer over. I did a little experiment where I washed the whole car, clayed the whole car, and re-washed only half the car. proved my theory right!



So, from my experience, if you cant get the tape to stick, rewash with a stripping wash solution (CGWG, IPA wipedown, etc) and reapply NEW tape!



anyone else encounter this, or have a tip like this, please share!
 
Yup, I noticed that as well!!! It's so much easier to foam down the car using CGWG after claying just to remove the clay lube and clay residue!!! I don't even have to wash the car. Just foam, let it sit, and rinse off. The post-clay washing process could really use foam gun, even if you do not intend to use a foam gun for your general washing purpose.
 
If you clay a car after washing with the car still wet use a few squirts of regular hand soap in a 32oz spray bottle with water as your lube. Then just rinse and dry.



If you clay on dry paint use heavily diluted ONR as lube. Any gloss enhancing QD is a bit of a waste used as clay lube, IMO.



You really don't need anything more then water to clay.
 
Try this on a new Mustang GT Convertible sometime. I can never get the tape to stick to the molding around the convertible top. It's almost like Teflon.





John
 
JohnKleven said:
Try this on a new Mustang GT Convertible sometime. I can never get the tape to stick to the molding around the convertible top. It's almost like Teflon.





John

You mean the molding right under the back window, behind the trunk lid ? I don't know what exactly that molding is made out of, but yeah, +1 to it being a pain in the *** to stick anything to.
 
toyotaguy said:
*TAPING A CAR FOR PAINT CORRECTION WORK*

occasionally I have trouble getting tape to stick, and always reached for the green tape in said situation...not anymore!



I figured out the problem!



I alway use 1:1 megs last touch for clay lube. Well, if you dont IPA or wash the car again, the tape will not stick, or stick well enough to run a buffer over. I did a little experiment where I washed the whole car, clayed the whole car, and re-washed only half the car. proved my theory right!



So, from my experience, if you cant get the tape to stick, rewash with a stripping wash solution (CGWG, IPA wipedown, etc) and reapply NEW tape!



anyone else encounter this, or have a tip like this, please share!



Yeah, Last Touch is pretty slick and have found the same as you. I will usually just wipe it down with IPA. :xyxthumbs
 
i think most people already wash the car after using a qd for claying right? thats one of the first things i learned on here anyways.
 
MichaelM said:
You really don't need anything more then water to clay.



I completely agree. For example, 3M makes a clay product, but not a lube or "quick detailer" of sort for claying lubrication.



I use Last Touch Diluted at 2:1 for claying. This ratio is slick enough for the clays I use.



Instead of drying the car before claying, I clay the car while it is still wet after washing. I simply spray on my 2:1 Diluted LT on the wet vehicle body for claying. This significantly reduces the LT residue remaining on the vehicle.



After I finish claying the car, I foam the car with Chemical Guys Wash & Gloss to strip down all the remaining clay lube and clay residue from the paint. Let the foam dwell for as long as temperature and humidity allow. Rinse off, then sheet off water.



I then use a microfiber damped with 1:1 IPA to wipe the car dry. The IPA solution helps the water evaporate much quicker, reduces water spottings, and further removes any lubricant that may not have been removed by the previous foaming procedure.
 
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