Is this overkill?

P

ppastos

New member
Sorry if my topic title wasn't specific enough but I don't think I could have posted exactly what i wanted there.



I was thinking about getting the car's paint surface clean then use Finish Kare 1000P as a base WAX, followed by Collinite 476S then S100. Then on good days or car shows using Meguiar's #7. Now obviously its will take a couple of days and washes to do this but I think it will be worth it because of the shear strength alone.



What do you all think?
 
people layer waxes all the time but i don't think you would need to personally layer that much. Thought that is just my opinion and you can give it a shot if you want.



Better off laying down a sealant and a coat of wax over it if anything.
 
todd@bsaw said:
Just pick one.

Most waxes do not "layer" and you will only be removing the previous layer of wax.
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Well the good thing about those waxes as far as I know is that they contain no cleaners with the possible exception of Meguiars #7.



Reason to keep FK100P at the bottom is because of its ability to handle suck hight heat. Ad as far as I know no other wax can say that. 476S has amazing beading action well actually there is 845 which is said and show to be a bit better. S100 for great shine that is unmatched. and Meguiars #7 for the wet look.



But I am getting ahead of my self since the paint is a cluster **** of swirls.
 
You cannot throw 4 different types of wax onto a finish and gain their 4 selective attributes.



Pretty much every type of carnauba wax contains solvents. They don't have to be a labeled "cleaner wax" to contain solvents. If they didn't have additional chemicals then the wax would be a solid brick. Those solvents will remove what was there before it.



The only real reason to apply multiple layers is to assure proper coverage and even then 3 layers is excessive.
 
todd@bsaw said:
You cannot throw 4 different types of wax onto a finish and gain their 4 selective attributes.



Pretty much every type of carnauba wax contains solvents. They don't have to be a labeled "cleaner wax" to contain solvents. If they didn't have additional chemicals then the wax would be a solid brick. Those solvents will remove what was there before it.



The only real reason to apply multiple layers is to assure proper coverage and even then 3 layers is excessive.
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I concur. :xyxthumbs
 
the megs #7 is a glaze so if you put theat on over the sealant it will remove it.

#7 is like a finishing polish.
 
shaunls1 said:
the megs #7 is a glaze so if you put theat on over the sealant it will remove it.

#7 is like a finishing polish.
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I thought so.



Its just that detailing takes a lot out of me and I'd rather do it as little as possible. But its far far better than paying $300. I am not saying they don't deserve to get paid that amount its just that those who can't afford it do it themselves or do nothing.



I have never tried FK100P but I like the fact thats its tough as nails. But I dislike the fact the water doesn't bead up and run off like Collinite.
 
ppastos said:
I thought so.



Its just that detailing takes a lot out of me and I'd rather do it as little as possible. But its far far better than paying $300. I am not saying they don't deserve to get paid that amount its just that those who can't afford it do it themselves or do nothing.



I have never tried FK100P but I like the fact thats its tough as nails. But I dislike the fact the water doesn't bead up and run off like Collinite.
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Just take your time and use proper wash technique and maintain the finish regularly when you can (at least every 4-6 months) with a good sealant and/or wax. This will keep your finish looking good and protected with minimal effort on your part.



Yes, a full detail from a professional can cost in the $300 range, but if your maintenance is up to par then it should only be done once a year or even a couple years (or more, depending on conditions and your wash regimen).
 
ppastos- I sorta doubt that a gentle application of #7 would remove a cured coat of FK1000P, but it's a pointless quandry as I wouldn't do it anyhow.



Get the paint looking nice. If it gets nice enough for FK1000P, use that. If the look is too "extra layer of clearcoat" for your taste, top the FK1000P with wax (that's sorta FK's idea with their Pink Wax).



I dunno about that behavior of water on FK1000P thing...while it's not the same as (fresh) Collinite, it's not like the water just sits there either. I went from using Collinite to using FK1000P on my Yukon, and I never even took note of a diff in how water behaves on it :nixweiss Heh heh, the smart-aleck in me wants to say that I have better things to think about ;)



I absolutely would *NOT* top FK1000P with Collinite. I'd just use one or the other.



Unlike most here, I don't want to spend one unnecessary minute detailing, so I get where you're coming from. I sure don't want to redo that Yukon XL of mine any more than I have to! I'm confident that the FK1000P (all by itself) is plenty of protection. Left untopped, it can be refreshed with another coat as needed (something you can't do once you put wax on top of it).



If you *really* want to spread out the time between major details, concentrate on not marring the paint, especially when you wash. I don't do major details on a regular basis by any means; I'm disappointed if I have to polish once a year! So I think you should just do the job right, as simply as possible (polish, FK1000P, done) and then work on your wash technique.
 
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