Is there anything "better" than Zaino for leather care?
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jfelbab
New member
IMHO. LM or LTT are clearly better. YMMV.
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
wannafbody said:
Mink Oil is a euphemistic name for liquefied pig fat and silicone oil
I recently tried Leatherique for the first time. It works really well. I used Pristine Clean on the dash and door leather and Rejuvenator Oil (followed by PC) on the seats. IMO, Leatherique works significantly better than the other leather products I've used, including Zaino, Mother's, Meguiar's, Lexol and a few others. The seat leather feels noticeably softer and the overall finish has a very nice, non-glossy look. It's a bit expensive, but worth it.
TOGWT said:
??? where do you buy yours at???????
Mink oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Mink oil is made from mink fat and originates from China. The fat that is made into this oil is stored just beneath the skin. Removed from pelts destined for the fur industry, the fat is rendered into mink oil.
Mink oil is a source of palmitoleic acid, which possesses physical properties similar to human sebum. Because of this, mink oil is used in several medical and cosmetic products. Mink oil is also used for treating/conditioning and preserving nearly all kinds of leather.[1]
derek37
New member
tom p. said:
ound:Niiice
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Mink oil [??? where do you buy yours at???????]
I do not use nor recommend oil-based products for leather care.
Oil-based products and leather care
Since body dirt and oil are a big stain factor in leather, be cognizant of bare skin when you are in your vehicle. If you use suntan oil or spray tan lotion, be sure to use a towel when you get back in your vehicle so that the oil does not get onto your leather. You can also use a towel when leaving the gym as body oils/ perspiration contain organic acids that will stain.
The liquefied fat from Mink oil is used mainly in the cosmetics industry (skin care) and is the main ingredient, along with silicone oil used for waterproofing, which negates transpiration (evaporation and hydration), which is necessary for the proper care of leather. Neat’s-foot oil and Lanolin (Latin: lāna "wool", and oleum, "oil") has some major disadvantages - it softens uncoated leather very easily and can lead to the seating areas sagging, it is also susceptible to microbial attack, and can cause the leather stitching to rot. Lanolin oil and the urethanes used as either a pigment or protective coating on automobile finished leather upholstery are not compatible as they will corrode the binder system, causing it to fail. When used on coated leather it will only sit on the surface and be transferred to clothing
Sperm whale oil (Spermaceti) is used for candles, soap, cosmetics and machine oil. Tea Tree Oil, even the so-called Banana Oil ( it is impossible to get any oil derived from a banana) its real name; Isoamyl acetate is a chemical solvent, often used as a ‘cover-up’ aroma. Silicone and oil- based conditioners are all damaging to urethane coated leather, as they block the movement of moisture back and forth (evaporation and hydration), regardless of what they say on the products label.
Silicone and Beeswax (or any other organic or inorganic wax) are hydrophobic, which means they will not allow transpiration (the replacement of moisture lost through evaporation, nor allow the movement of moisture back and forth (evaporation and hydration). Silicone oil again, not ideal for leather in the same way wax or oils aren’t, as they seal the surface and make it slippery, something I personally don’t enjoy in any car.
Silicone oils and waxes also helps attract dust, making it artificially shiny (losing that OEM matte look) and can help bring on cracks in polyurethane coated surfaces as it builds up with each coat applied. The net effect of which is dehydration leads to drying and cracking of the surface.
There is no correlation between the cosmetics used for skin care and how we look after finished leather upholstery, Proteins, Collagen, Lanolin, Oils and Aloe are used for human skin reconstruction and nutrition, finished leather is not like human skin, its dead and cannot be regenerated or revived.
I do not use nor recommend oil-based products for leather care.
Oil-based products and leather care
Since body dirt and oil are a big stain factor in leather, be cognizant of bare skin when you are in your vehicle. If you use suntan oil or spray tan lotion, be sure to use a towel when you get back in your vehicle so that the oil does not get onto your leather. You can also use a towel when leaving the gym as body oils/ perspiration contain organic acids that will stain.
The liquefied fat from Mink oil is used mainly in the cosmetics industry (skin care) and is the main ingredient, along with silicone oil used for waterproofing, which negates transpiration (evaporation and hydration), which is necessary for the proper care of leather. Neat’s-foot oil and Lanolin (Latin: lāna "wool", and oleum, "oil") has some major disadvantages - it softens uncoated leather very easily and can lead to the seating areas sagging, it is also susceptible to microbial attack, and can cause the leather stitching to rot. Lanolin oil and the urethanes used as either a pigment or protective coating on automobile finished leather upholstery are not compatible as they will corrode the binder system, causing it to fail. When used on coated leather it will only sit on the surface and be transferred to clothing
Sperm whale oil (Spermaceti) is used for candles, soap, cosmetics and machine oil. Tea Tree Oil, even the so-called Banana Oil ( it is impossible to get any oil derived from a banana) its real name; Isoamyl acetate is a chemical solvent, often used as a ‘cover-up’ aroma. Silicone and oil- based conditioners are all damaging to urethane coated leather, as they block the movement of moisture back and forth (evaporation and hydration), regardless of what they say on the products label.
Silicone and Beeswax (or any other organic or inorganic wax) are hydrophobic, which means they will not allow transpiration (the replacement of moisture lost through evaporation, nor allow the movement of moisture back and forth (evaporation and hydration). Silicone oil again, not ideal for leather in the same way wax or oils aren’t, as they seal the surface and make it slippery, something I personally don’t enjoy in any car.
Silicone oils and waxes also helps attract dust, making it artificially shiny (losing that OEM matte look) and can help bring on cracks in polyurethane coated surfaces as it builds up with each coat applied. The net effect of which is dehydration leads to drying and cracking of the surface.
There is no correlation between the cosmetics used for skin care and how we look after finished leather upholstery, Proteins, Collagen, Lanolin, Oils and Aloe are used for human skin reconstruction and nutrition, finished leather is not like human skin, its dead and cannot be regenerated or revived.