Is the Rotary buffer going to make a come back?

Accumulator said:
Adios S6- That "jeweling via rotary" might not be all that unorthodox; I know a few people who do that and in their view it leaves the best possible finish. Only potential catch is that you gotta be able to do it without instilling any holograms; pull that off and the idea is perfectly sound.
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You have to wonder if those who claim rotary produces better gloss are just too stuck in their way or are used to seeing paint look a "certain" way, which in their minds is glossier...

I think both tools are capable of the same finish in the hands of a skilled user on "most" paints.
 
My 2 cents......I own 5 different types of machines. ....I can't really pin point it....maybe it is a mindset. ...but when I do use my Makita I swear the gloss looks much wetter than just using a Rupes..or Flex or whatever. ...it's probably a mind set and deleareas after using it....lol
 
It was a few years back, but I do remember someone posting the best that each machine could achieve gloss wise and the rotary won. They had some kind of meter to measure it and the difference was small, but, it did win. Todd Helme used a rotary to finish many details, I don't know if he still does since I haven't seen a write up in a while.
 
Rotary, is Def the way to go on bad finishes. It would take way to much time to do with a DA. I still have my ancient rotary, I remember when Meguiars started selling the porter cable da, I bought it as kit from them out of the catalog they used to mail out (if you remember this you know how long ago 25-30 years ago?). The first time I used the porter cable I was like this is only good for applying wax. Still have that PC waxer as well, it was before the 7424 was released.
 
I 95% of the time finishing with a rotary.
About 60% of the total cars i work on is with a rotary.
Flex&shinex both fantastic rotarys.
 
Junebug & RaskyR1- The more I think about it, the more certain I am that it *was* John Kleven (Metroplitan Detail in WA) who did that comparison with the glossmeter. While I'd take John's word for something andhow, the glossmeter did add a bit of objectivity.

But yeah, IMO and IRL, I dunno about discernable differences. Though I *am* the guy who's certain he gets a better final finish if he uses something other than the Flex 3401 for the final burnishing...
 
wendell jarvis said:
My 2 cents......I own 5 different types of machines. ....I can't really pin point it....maybe it is a mindset. ...but when I do use my Makita I swear the gloss looks much wetter than just using a Rupes..or Flex or whatever. ...it's probably a mind set and deleareas after using it....lol
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Don't think it is a mindset unless we are on the same channel. I also find the deep gloss using a rotary, maybe if I went over the same spot 10 or so times with a DA it may be the same. I have had many comments how deep and liquid the finish on my truck looks and it is done exclusively with a rotary. As a famous person once said " If you want my rotary you will have to take it from my dead cold hand", wait a minute, it may have been my gun. ;)


Dave
 
Been using a rotary for over 40 years and still use it today. With all these new type of polishing machines coming out it makes detailing easy for the non-professional detailer get results that their looking for and helps them to be not afraid to use one.
 
Old Pirate said:
Been using a rotary for over 40 years and still use it today. With all these new type of polishing machines coming out it makes detailing easy for the non-professional detailer get results that their looking for and helps them to be not afraid to use one.
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40 years? Were you in diapers? :)

I benched my rotary a few years ago and only brought it out on occasion or in conjunction with my pad washer bucket. I have since been using it more and more again. There really is no substitute if you want efficient paint correction. Sure you can achieve comparable results with da's but you will spend 2 to 3 times longer in most cases.

I recently bought a Flex 3401 again when I discovered Car Pro's Flash pads. I thought that combo would be the "end all" one-step solution for moderate paint correction. After experiencing swirling using this combo I have decided I don't want or need the FLEX anymore. If I'm going to 2 step a finish, I would rather break out the Makita and then finish with my DA.
 
RaskyR1 said:
I still firmly believe that if you start with a twisted wool pad and compound on a rotary polisher that you need at least 2 more refinement steps on most all paints. If these new compounds and polishes can cut out 1200-1500 grit marks and finish down perfectly in only 2 steps, I'd love to see it.
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I don't think a twisted wool pad is necessary as much these days with how advanced pads & compound technology has become. A twisted wool pad in itself will leave pretty deep marring where something like a HD Turkish lambswool pad will cut as well and finish tons better. Plus, it holds the liquids better which obviously translates into a better finish also. This translates into less steps needed (just one) after compounding to produce a swirl free, deep finish. I really can't see anyone needing to do 3 steps unless you have some super soft paint.

And on that note, I'm all for using rotary/wool for the initial step and finishing with a DA. Best of both worlds and no halos.
 
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