Is the Rotary buffer going to make a come back?

David Fermani

David Fermani

Forza Auto Salon
Seems like many things in detailing go full circle! I learned how to 1st polish paint in 1990 with a rotary buffer and didn't open my eyes to using a dual action polisher for correction (used a B&D for applying wax) until just the last few years after discovering the DA correction power of non-diminishing polishes. And then having even better results after moving on to the Rupes polishers. I thought these machines were really great, but after opening up a high volume shop here in Metro Detroit I've been exposed to cars with utterly destroyed paint finishes. I've really given my DA's a huge chance to prove themselves, but every time I just can't help to notice that they don't cut as quick or as well as a rotary buffer. I've had great results with them on moderately swirled/marred finishes, but when you have a train wreck that needs some serious knocking down they just don't cut it for me (literally). I find myself reaching more & more for my trusty Makita to level destroyed finishes than my DA. Mainly because it takes me 1/3 of the time to level away defects with my rotary compared to my DA polishers. And I also notice that the final finish is sharper and glossier too for some reason even though I'm using a DA for the final/2nd step? Back in the day anytime you used a rotary/wool for correction that meant that you were doing at least 2 more refining steps to get to that swirl free final finish. But with today's compounds & pads that leave such a great finish I think you're going to see a resurrection of the rotary buffer among the high-end enthusiast crowd when they have a vehicle that's hammered. Regardless if you're a full time or part time detailer, time is money for you. If you can get to the same/similar final result, why wouldn't you use the machine that can get you there quicker?

Does anyone else feel this same way?
 
David, I often reach for my rotary for the first step of a multi-stage correction. I cut my teeth on a rotary and have maintained the skill over the years.

- Patrick
 
I started on a rotary and still can't get used to correcting bad paint without one. Tried it and don't have the patient to use the DA. Like the DA for lite work tho. I think that they might make a come back
 
For the past 35 years a rotary has had and still has a place in my cabinet. I have a couple and they're used frequently.
 
I have seen where many shops will use the rotary like you said , to beat it into submission fast, then do the DA step to refine and catch any possible haze or trails.

looking fwd to putting mine through some paces and getting the technique down
 
I learned on Rotaries as a kid, and have never left them.

Went through the old school paints of the 50's-80's to Imron, and back then, no one would even entertain the thought of using a Porter Cable 7424 to do anything except sand wood or something.

You learned, I mean really learned if you were working with similarly minded people, to use your own Innovation, to make a perfectly clear finish.. There was no other option.. You had to Learn the extremes of what that pad, compound, speed, pressure, technique combination would do, and always trying to cut out a step because you discovered if you used this product, this pad, this speed, pressure, moisture, a certain way, it would finish down incredibly well or perhaps not, but you would learn and then know...

There was no Internet with a List of Steps you must take to use the tool, written by well meaning people that unfortunately, could not ever account for the bazillion number of conditions for that exact paint, that temperature, that particular compound, pad, speed, pressure, and dont get started on the actual technique needed for that particular condition that was going to be different even on the same vehicle because panels had been repainted, etc...

You used Cornstarch to finish off some paintwork to give it an extra Pop.. Imagine that...

And everything was done with one tool - the Rotary..

Fast forward to the newer-newest compounds, foam pads vs all the wool and wool blend pads, and what do you know - the same Rotary can do some incredible work, really quickly if you want to take the time to learn how and use Innovation..

If all the auto body shops, airplane shops, even automobile manufacturers paint shops still use the Rotary, there must be a good reason why millions of them are being used every day...

Perhaps for the more casual user of Detailing tools, a good Random Orbital will be surely easier to learn on after you get through the learning curve, and as they keep inventing/reinventing newer designs, etc., there must be a Market out there for exactly that.. And this is good for everyone who wants to learn how to take care of their paintwork..

Me, I want to clean up and clarify the paint quickly, and leave time for anything else that might pop up unexpectedly, .. I want to have the "luxury" of a little extra time to do whatever it takes to make the finish as perfect as possible within the Scope of Work for that vehicle..

I dont want to have to add extra "blow off the microfiber, etc., with an air chuck you have to now carry around and run a big-a$$ compressor that makes a lot of noise and needs periodic water removal, etc., steps to the process, thank you... I have said compressor but dont use it for that because I have found more innovative ways to accomplish things without it..

I dont want to make compound dust everywhere if I dont have to, thank you..

Its the oldest design tool out there, direct drive, more torque than you can ever handle, simple to maintain, it never complains, stops rotating, the bigger ones will give your upper body a great workout if you use it every day for even 1 year.. Its quieter and doesnt vibrate your carpal tunnel tendons to death...

Im thinking, I should open up a "Home for Gently Used if Ever Random Orbitals" :) The HGUIERO... :) They could come knowing they would be safe, would get great rest, and hardly ever come out of their special shelves in the tool cabinet... :) :) :)

Thanks David, for the thoughts,
Merry Christmas !
Dan F
 
I think for a pro, making his living by saving time, yes they are a part of the mix, expecially on trashed finishes.

For a weekend warrior more concerned with not inflicting damage, NO. For me my arsenal looks like this Old PC, Flex DA, GG 6" and GG3". I am trying to delude myself into the fact that I need a Rupes but at this point I have more buffers than cars!

I don't have the desire to put in the seat time to learn the Rotary at this point. I may spent a few more Minutes/hours on a correction but at least I will not burn through.
 
IMO, I don't believe the rotary has ever left. I use mine solely for Metal Polishing nowadays. If there was an extremely trashed car the rotary is coming out and I will usually clean up any (if any) holograms left via DA. That or wetsanding marks...the rotary/wool combo just cuts so much time.
 
Did they ever go away? LOL! Technology has changed and gotten better in the field of correction and detailing. This year, after 20 plus years of doing this as a "hobbyist", I hope to learn how to use one. As some have said, especially those doing this for an income, your time is money and when used correctly, it can make you money and save time.
Granted the advancement in DA technology has moved forward and made it easier for someone like me to elevate my care and skills but the rotary is also a valued tool in one's arsenal that should not be overlooked.
 
Although I turned wrenches for almost 25 years, it's only been 4 years that I've been doing paint correction. Not had much experience (or the demand, frankly, for learning the rotary) and since my Dewalt was stolen I decided just to pick up a harbor freight to replace it; I have been going to it mostly with an extension for 4 inch pads.

I plan on gaining more experience with the rotary as time goes on but what I've found is that on trashed paint it's the Tolex and Buflex sanding discs that are my first "go to".

However, I do have a question. Seems to me I've read that the rotary is used by many to finish down with foam pads. But lately I've been reading to use a DA. Y/N?

But I agree, having to blow out MF pads is a big PITA.
 
I agree with some of the post above....I don't think it ever went away, I just think with the massive increase of new detailers the last couple years we just see more posts by those who have embraced the newer, safer DA technology, rather then a rotary, which require a lot of time to master.

I started on the rotary around 1989-90 as well and it was all I used up until 2005. Now days my work is mainly done with large throw DA's, but when heavy correction or repaint jobs come in, I almost always reach for the rotary for my initial correction.


I'm going to go out on a limb and guess this post had to do with sparking interest in the new 3D compounds, which is fine as I've been wanting to try them. However, I still firmly believe that if you start with a twisted wool pad and compound on a rotary polisher that you need at least 2 more refinement steps on most all paints. If these new compounds and polishes can cut out 1200-1500 grit marks and finish down perfectly in only 2 steps, I'd love to see it.
 
I have yet to step up from a PC but keep going back and forth from wanting a rotary or a flex or rupes. The more I think about it the more I fell the rotary will be the more versatile machine being able to handle a wider range of work with enough practice and time spent learning. Time is money and from everything ive read and come to understand, the rotary is king for removing defects quickly.

Then again ive seen a rupes 21 against a rotary and the rupes left a better finish that was easier to polish out. While the rotary corrected in half the time, the time was made up with the rupes needing minimal follow up compared to the rotary. I forget the video I saw of it but I remember seeing it on youtube a few months ago.

Just so much to consider. But it seems that there is and always will be a place for a rotary in the detailing world IMO
 
I started out on rotaries, and still have two, but I don't expect to ever use one again. But then I'm no pro and my vehicles never get so bad that a decent RO can't correct them. Eh, even new-to-me vehicles in terrible condition correct easily enough with other methods. I simply never feel that using the Makita or the Metabo is the way to go these days.

Just FWIW, I never found rotaries all that tough to use ("use", not "master"). Never burned paint, never had a significant "oops!" of any kind. But I never did master them well enough to finish out 100% hologram-free on every paint though so I always had to finish up with something else anyhow (at least on b/c paint, ss is different). And I simply *HATE* the chore of chasing down minor holograms, the kind that only show under certain circumstances.

I never really liked the feel of using a rotary either, just a personal preference thing that maybe that goes back to using a Milwaukee in my younger days.

So... OK, if you have the correct mindset, and the time/ability to become proficient, and you never mess up somebody else's vehicle, and you want to go that route...more power to you.

For a non-pro though, I honestly think that the time/effort of learning a rotary can be better spent on other things.
 
Rotary all the way for me. I think this past season, I may have used the DA a handful of times for simple one steps, but even used the rotary for most of my one step jobs as well.
 
I will always have rotaries in my detailing arsenal. I own a Makita 9227 and a Flex PE-14. However, I find myself doing more of my correction of maintenance work with my Rupes 21 or Griots.
 
Well, after getting rid of my Makita rotary - I went out and bough a DeWalt. I do a couple boats and well, if you've ever tried to polish gel coat with a PC, then you know what I'm talking about. I haven't used a rotary on paint in a long time. I also haven't had a really trashed car in untill last week and I started to grab the rotary. You know, after dealing with an aching lower back and hands for the past few days I realize I should have! But, B&S MF pads, M101 took care of it, just a PITA.
 
It seems we continue to embrace DA technology that brings us closer to the correction power of a rotary, yet still don't just take the plunge.

I started on a rotary; one that weighed about 25 pounds. And my dad taught me bad technique from the start. Since then, I've corrected my technique, and rotaries have gotten lighter and speed controls are much more precise. I will still use mine for really hard paints and for jewelling. But I feel on most paints I can get better results with a large throw DA to cut and a rotary to finish/jewel (go ahead and call me unorthodox).

For many I don't think the rotary went away. I do think that some will eventually embrace the rotary, but it takes more time to master and there is more risk, so it's challenging for most pros to make the leap when they have a system that works and clients paying for their business model. That's not to say they couldn't be more profitable, but there's a large time investment required.
 
Adios S6- That "jeweling via rotary" might not be all that unorthodox; I know a few people who do that and in their view it leaves the best possible finish. Only potential catch is that you gotta be able to do it without instilling any holograms; pull that off and the idea is perfectly sound.
 
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