is polishing really necessary
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hondaguy2582
New member
id say you at least need some kind of paint cleaner after the clay to remove the clay residue, and prep the surface for the final wax/sealant. Polishing removes embedded dirt and oxidation that claying does not remove. Imo, its necessary to clay and use a paint cleaner after to ensure that your surface is clean before applying any protection.
Accumulator
Well-known member
I'll give a slightly different take on this one. *IMO*, claying and polishing are two different procedures that accomplish two different things.
Claying pulls contaminants out of and OFF of, the paint. For instance, it'll pull rail dust out like pulling a splinter out of your skin, but it will also clean off tar and tree sap (something I use it for with most every wash).
Polishing works primarily through abrasive action. SOME polishes also contain chemical cleaners (and there are some nonabrasive "pure polishes" that *I* would call glazes), but GENERALLY, polishes clean by abrading off some of whatever they're rubbed against (usually paint- they remove some paint and also whatever's on it).
The big reason to use polishes is to remove marring and/or oxidation. If your paint is just a little dirty (after washing and claying), something that cleans primarily through chemical means (like AIO) can clean it up. VM is sorta in this category too, although it does contain (very) fine abrasives.
If you're concerned about clay residue, one of these virtually-non-abrasive polishes/paint cleaners (like your VM) will work fine. But *I* never seem to get any clay residue that needs cleaned off. Honestly can't remember the last time, except for when I clayed the backs of some wheels. Used to get it now and then when I used Griot's clay, but only when I used wash solution as lube. NEVER got it with the Autopia Block. Maybe I've just gotten the hang of claying, having gone through *MANY* bars of clay over the years (I've already gone through a Mother's and half of an Autopia Block this year).
Claying pulls contaminants out of and OFF of, the paint. For instance, it'll pull rail dust out like pulling a splinter out of your skin, but it will also clean off tar and tree sap (something I use it for with most every wash).
Polishing works primarily through abrasive action. SOME polishes also contain chemical cleaners (and there are some nonabrasive "pure polishes" that *I* would call glazes), but GENERALLY, polishes clean by abrading off some of whatever they're rubbed against (usually paint- they remove some paint and also whatever's on it).
The big reason to use polishes is to remove marring and/or oxidation. If your paint is just a little dirty (after washing and claying), something that cleans primarily through chemical means (like AIO) can clean it up. VM is sorta in this category too, although it does contain (very) fine abrasives.
If you're concerned about clay residue, one of these virtually-non-abrasive polishes/paint cleaners (like your VM) will work fine. But *I* never seem to get any clay residue that needs cleaned off. Honestly can't remember the last time, except for when I clayed the backs of some wheels. Used to get it now and then when I used Griot's clay, but only when I used wash solution as lube. NEVER got it with the Autopia Block. Maybe I've just gotten the hang of claying, having gone through *MANY* bars of clay over the years (I've already gone through a Mother's and half of an Autopia Block this year).
GoodnClean
New member
Well, from what I've heard the SSR1 has very little if any cutting ability, so since you're using the pro polish (which does somewhat) it may be redundent, but I have used niether so this is just an outside observation.
Bear in mind though that VM IS a polish.
Bear in mind though that VM IS a polish.
I agree, and think that you should use something to prep the paint somehow before moving on to the protection product(s).Accumulator said:
Basically I just think that you shouldn't simply CLAY --> WAX, and you should use a cleaner wax or some kind of polish/glaze/cleaner in between. A lot of modern "pure" waxes don't seem to take well do being applied to unprepped paint, possibly because of the fewer solvents they're allowed to use these days.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Heh heh, yeah, I always recommend that people at least use AIO or SOMETHING before their last step product, BUT...actually, in *MY* own case...
I reapply my LSP directly after claying (while I wash) quite often. Usually, most of my vehicles don't get enough marring (if any, in some cases) to justify polishing each time I do the LSP. I'd say I seldom need to polish more than once a year. But I reapply my LSPs much more frequently.
Examples include: new, additional layers of SG, 3M paste wax on Accumulatorette's A8, additional P UPP on the S8, and Souveran (or whatever) on the XJS after every wash.
Of course, I'm reapplying my LSP *LONG* before the previous application is really gone...and this might be a good example of "do as I say, not as I do"
I reapply my LSP directly after claying (while I wash) quite often. Usually, most of my vehicles don't get enough marring (if any, in some cases) to justify polishing each time I do the LSP. I'd say I seldom need to polish more than once a year. But I reapply my LSPs much more frequently.
Examples include: new, additional layers of SG, 3M paste wax on Accumulatorette's A8, additional P UPP on the S8, and Souveran (or whatever) on the XJS after every wash.
Of course, I'm reapplying my LSP *LONG* before the previous application is really gone...and this might be a good example of "do as I say, not as I do"
imported_kgb
New member
If you want shiney smooth paint you are going to have to polish or all you are doing it cleaning the paint a bit and throughing some wax on top of it.