Is Opticoat2.0/OptiGuard really a clearcoat?

A

Alfisti

Active member
Some have asked if it's a clearcoat or just a glorified sealant.



In my understanding, OptiCoat2.0/OptiGuard is a clearcoat. Just made of silicon carbide ceramic. It's a harder clearcoat than the OEM clear that reaches a Mohs hardness of 9 (diamond is 10) over several months.



From what I can gather and my own experience, OC 2.0 provides superior protection than any other product. After 24hrs you can wash your car with turpentine or bodyshop prep thinners and it won't effect the beading/protection properties. What chemical you wash your car with becomes irrelevant.



That doesn't mean it won't scratch with *softer* substances like glass or sand. It's too thin (2 microns) to withstand the mechanical pressure of a heavy abrasive, but reportedly it will scratch less than standard OEM clearcoat.
 
Opti-Coatâ„¢ is not a nano particle; it is rather a pre-polymer that cross links and forms a continuous semi-permanent film on the surfaces it is applied; to similar to a single component isocyanate that forms a clear coating. Opti-Coat will provide a 2-4 µ (microns) film and a hardness of 9H when fully cross-linked and a durability of 2+ years it is claimed.
 
In the early days they claimed it was semi-permanent. After years of testing its durability they now state it's permanent and will last the life of the paint.
 
I tell you what man, I just finished my first application of OC 2.0 (I played with Opti-Guard on my hood a while ago) and honestly I have no idea what to expect when I see it in full sun tomorrow. I just haven't got the hang of applying the stuff. I feel like there isn't enough on the applicator when I'm only doing 2-3 drops per panel (the applicator is all grabby) but when I use more its like high spot city. Hope it was worth all the effort.
 
Oh dear. I hope it looks ok. I read that polishing it with Poliseal is enough to knock off the high spots you've missed. That shouldn't be too bad.



I developed a technique of after applying and it flashes, I then run a napless MF over it with no pressure and that takes off any high spots. They tend to grab on the MF and I gently wipe until the grabbing stops. Again all with no pressure - just the weight of the MF. It seems to work fine and looked good on a black car I did recently.
 
Alfisti said:
Oh dear. I hope it looks ok. I read that polishing it with Poliseal is enough to knock off the high spots you've missed. That shouldn't be too bad.



I developed a technique of after applying and it flashes, I then run a napless MF over it with no pressure and that takes off any high spots. They tend to grab on the MF and I gently wipe until the grabbing stops. Again all with no pressure - just the weight of the MF. It seems to work fine and looked good on a black car I did recently.
Click to expand...



With opti-guard, I was able to knock down high spots using 205 on a 4" black lc pad by hand with almost no pressure, and it didn't seem to take off the base layer. It doesn't look terrible today thankfully, about 4-5 small high spots that I should be able to take care of. I just hope that I actually got coverage with how much the applicator was grabbing.
 
Phishy4 said:
With opti-guard, I was able to knock down high spots using 205 on a 4" black lc pad by hand with almost no pressure, and it didn't seem to take off the base layer. It doesn't look terrible today thankfully, about 4-5 small high spots that I should be able to take care of. I just hope that I actually got coverage with how much the applicator was grabbing.
Click to expand...



Were you using a foam applicator for the OC? I've found that a MF applicator is less grabby and gives good even coverage as well.
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
Were you using a foam applicator for the OC? I've found that a MF applicator is less grabby and gives good even coverage as well.
Click to expand...



I was using included foam applicator. I've got a couple cheapo viking mf applicators I was going to use for blackfire touch ups, I imagine they would do the job. I just wonder how much more product I'd wind up using (from the mf absorbing it). What kind of applicators do you use? You guys have any way to tell if you missed any spots after? Everything spot I've felt was squeaky so far, so I think I got it all covered. I'll hose it off this weekend and see what it looks like, but not sure I'll be able to tell on the doors. I know the hood, pillars and roof are good, worse case I guess I can just polish off the doors and take some more time and re-do them.
 
You won't have to polish off the coating. You can simply polish down the high spots with Poliseal. It won't remove the coating but even it, out according OPT.
 
Phishy4 said:
I was using included foam applicator. I've got a couple cheapo viking mf applicators I was going to use for blackfire touch ups, I imagine they would do the job. I just wonder how much more product I'd wind up using (from the mf absorbing it). What kind of applicators do you use? You guys have any way to tell if you missed any spots after? Everything spot I've felt was squeaky so far, so I think I got it all covered. I'll hose it off this weekend and see what it looks like, but not sure I'll be able to tell on the doors. I know the hood, pillars and roof are good, worse case I guess I can just polish off the doors and take some more time and re-do them.
Click to expand...



I just picked up some of the Meguiar's Even Coat MF applicators at the local parts store; they seem to work just fine.
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
I just picked up some of the Meguiar's Even Coat MF applicators at the local parts store; they seem to work just fine.
Click to expand...



And you didn't feel like you wasted any major amount of product? Those sound like it would definitely be easier to handle if nothing else.
 
Phishy4 said:
And you didn't feel like you wasted any major amount of product? Those sound like it would definitely be easier to handle if nothing else.
Click to expand...



Not really any more than you end up wasting with it getting soaked up into the foam applicator....
 
Phishy4 said:
Nice, i'll use the mf on my wifes accord. Thanks for the tip.
Click to expand...



Another option is to make your own applicator. Wrap a foam applicator in a plastic baggie and then cover it with MF and sew it together. That way you eliminate the product saturation into the foam.



Put the wife to work Justin! :)
 
RaskyR1 said:
Another option is to make your own applicator. Wrap a foam applicator in a plastic baggie and then cover it with MF and sew it together. That way you eliminate the product saturation into the foam.



Put the wife to work Justin! :)
Click to expand...



You never really struck me as a seamstress Rasky. I wonder if we got some really really low nap mf (non waffle weave) and just wrapped a piece of it around a thin rubber disc (like punch cut a 1/4 thick piece of rubber backing) if that would give it enough to hang on to and be flexible enough to form to panels. Break out the sewing machine Chad, lets do it.
 
Alfisti said:
You won't have to polish off the coating. You can simply polish down the high spots with Poliseal. It won't remove the coating but even it, out according OPT.
Click to expand...

Sorry Phishy4, it seems I've made a blunder. I rechecked the info on OPT forum and you can't remove the high spots with Poliseal (PS). PS can be used to polish down any unevenness and ridges of the coating. You need to polish down high spots with a dedicated polish. Still, you don't have remove the whole panel coating. Think of it as removing marring off an OEM clear. You don't have to remove the whole clearcoat, just level the paint.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top