Is it me or the 5 Series paint?

RaskyR1 said:
I reread his post and I think I get what he's saying. When I first read it I though he meant the paint can't get that hot or it could cause failure. My bad.



Disregard my question Ron.



Lol, when I first read it I thought the same thing. And Lance, sorry for the thread jack!
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Not to be "harsh" but it is you/process.

Those are not just "water spots", but light acid etching.

Don't know the whole story, but it would appear you "over worked" the issue and created excessive heat of the clearcoat while attempting to do the correction.

Grumpy

Since I retired, am not in the "big loop" where I could easily obtain the latest tech info of vehicle's paint systems.

I have went back and looked more closely at the photos, the side shot of the door, etc indicate that the vehicle has had some serious acid etching in it's life.

That begs me to ask if you checked the film build before you started the work?

I retired in 2008 and so have only information to that year of production, and the 5 Series were using a "powder coat" clear if I remember.

At our ValuGard Vehicle Processing Center, we saw hundred's of 5 Series where they came off the transport truck with acid rain etching. The correction of such was a real bear, and often would have to inform the dealership that excessive clearcoat removal would be required, which we would would not do without approval.

The factory BMW rep would come by and make the "call", some of which were, in "my opinion" wrong as he would have our shop go ahead and "kick it over the curb", saying that if a customer complained, they would work it out with them should it arise.

Grumpy
 
mikenap said:
... Did you happen to IPA wipe the surface after the 205/blue step?



Once or twice only. Was looking for hazing but to my eye, didn't see any. After the Griot's PaintPrep, drove it into the daylight and it looked fine. I was, however, a bit disappointed in that it didn't have the 'shine' I was hoping 205 and the LC Blue would bring out.
 
AAA DETAILING said:
Are you using a pc or rotary?

How do you prep you mf towels before you use them?



GG D/A



I'm guessing you mean MF Pads? Yeah, I prime them, wait a bit then hold a MF towel against them with the DA on 4.
 
LeMarque said:
205 on the LC Blue cleaned up the marring just fine. I'm wondering how 105 on a cutting pad after D300 isn't going to impart still more marring? Not arguing just wondering.



Lance



remember though..... 205 does fill.... if you use 105 on a finishing pad (or as i have had success also with a light cut pad) prime the pad, work in with mf towel to give you a smooth, level surface on the pad against the paint, this WILL NOT marr the paint. (again making absolute sure that your pads are properly cleaned) This will actually get rid of the marring instead of hiding it. I have also found this method to finish down some paints very nicely. try it sometime. you might just be amazed. ( I own a metallic colored BMW so I am familiar with this, as i have worked on others that all had this tendency when pad was not super clean).
 
Ron Ketcham said:
we saw hundred's of 5 Series where they came off the transport truck with acid rain etching.



So I'm not the only one who has seen this issue then. I've seen several of the Bangle design 5 series with acid rain etching too deep to compound out.
 
205 is a terrible finishing polish. Get menzerna 106 or 85rd and see what true gloss is all about. Or sonax perfect finish. even better!
 
#205 is good if the paint is near LSP ready especially on softer paints. On harder paints it hides as much as it removes.
 
toyotaguy said:
205 is a terrible finishing polish. Get menzerna 106 or 85rd and see what true gloss is all about. Or sonax perfect finish. even better!



HD Polish would probably work as well. It cuts even more than 205 and finishes better.
 
Just a little "reminder" that some seem to forget.

The "base coat" color is one thing, but what you work on is the "clear coat" as you had never, ever, being going down to the "base coat", IE, the "color".

If the "clear" is compromised, should it exhibit marring, etching, swirls, hazing, etc, that "IS THE PAINT FILM YOU ARE WORKING WITH, not the base/color coat.

I realize that many here are aware of such, however, there are a large number of folks who come on to the forum who do not actually know or realize that simple fact.

They "focus" on the "color", not really able to consider that the color is just part of the "paint system" and they may only affect the "clear coat" with their efforts.



Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Just a little "reminder" that some seem to forget.

The "base coat" color is one thing, but what you work on is the "clear coat" as you had never, ever, being going down to the "base coat", IE, the "color".

If the "clear" is compromised, should it exhibit marring, etching, swirls, hazing, etc, that "IS THE PAINT FILM YOU ARE WORKING WITH, not the base/color coat.

I realize that many here are aware of such, however, there are a large number of folks who come on to the forum who do not actually know or realize that simple fact.

They "focus" on the "color", not really able to consider that the color is just part of the "paint system" and they may only affect the "clear coat" with their efforts.



Grumpy



kind of like when people refer to paints as being hard or soft. It's not actually the paint that is hard or soft.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
May have worked to long.

Any of the newer thermometers will work, even the little $10 from Harbor Frieght, which I have one, and the bigger, more expensive one, which I use as well.

Both will do the job, brand is not important, that's just marketing of the same tool with a name on them.

Learn to "look into the paint film" with a good magnifer, is you see "bubbles", or deep cloudiness, you may have some deep damage.

One wipe or such with a polish should and usually, will remove the "water spots", but if after that, you see the afore mentioned conditions, it's usually the dreaded "etching", which is the breaking apart of the resin system of the paint film (binder/film former", which is what keeps the paint film together and produces the nice "gloss" everyone wants to see.

(by the way, those "acids" that caused the problem will not be removed by clay or buffing, so once the surface is exposed to more water(oxygen molecules/oxidizer) and some heat above about 70F, the acids reactivate and start "eating" again. Even worse in large city's where it is warmer and have a pollution problem of "ozone", which is a more active oxidizer than oxygen)

Grumpy



To many posts to reply to :yield:



I did take measurements. Readings were kind of all over the place. (and just to say, I find this to be the case on most cars I measure). I know most use microns but my etg is set for mils, so...4.7 above the windshield to 5.9 +/- on the hood and doors and 6.3 +/- on the trunk. I was careful not to remove more then .2 mils and on the 'thinner' panels I just did enough to remove the spots. I spoke with the owner about your take that this is acid etching and he has another black 1 series and a black ford truck. He mentioned that he has a stuccoed car port and that when it rains the drips from the stucco leave spots. I'm going to stop by his house (you've got me curious now) and take some photos of his other cars and look at the spots with the magnifier. I'll post those here.
 
toyotaguy said:
205 is a terrible finishing polish. Get menzerna 106 or 85rd and see what true gloss is all about. Or sonax perfect finish. even better!



Don't know why I didn't. Saw a thread where Barry Theal (?) went straight from 105 to 205 and while I didn't use that technique, that's probably why.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
May have worked to long.

Any of the newer thermometers will work, even the little $10 from Harbor Frieght, which I have one, and the bigger, more expensive one, which I use as well.

Both will do the job, brand is not important, that's just marketing of the same tool with a name on them.



I paid up a bit and got this one: Amazon.com: WCI Professional High-Temperature IR Infrared Thermometer Laser Pointer Gun - Instant °C Or °F Measurements - Type K Input, 20 Point Memory, LCD Display And Alarm - For Electrical, HVAC, Automotive Diagnostics, Or Cooking Etc.: Home Impro



Thinking of adding a mount to attach it to a tripod, reason being that by the time I pick it up and take a reading the section would have cooled down some.



Learn to "look into the paint film" with a good magnifer, is you see "bubbles", or deep cloudiness, you may have some deep damage.

One wipe or such with a polish should and usually, will remove the "water spots", but if after that, you see the afore mentioned conditions, it's usually the dreaded "etching", which is the breaking apart of the resin system of the paint film (binder/film former", which is what keeps the paint film together and produces the nice "gloss" everyone wants to see.

(by the way, those "acids" that caused the problem will not be removed by clay or buffing, so once the surface is exposed to more water(oxygen molecules/oxidizer) and some heat above about 70F, the acids reactivate and start "eating" again. Even worse in large city's where it is warmer and have a pollution problem of "ozone", which is a more active oxidizer than oxygen)

Grumpy



I posted because I wasn't happy with the outcome. But I really don't think I got the finish that hot or worked it all that long. I did keep feeling the SurBuf to see if it was warm ( and I only did 3 passes with it and to my eye, the marring was not all that bad), cleaned almost after every section as well as changing pads after each panel. I'll see the car again this week and look at it as you suggest.
 
IHA Mark said:
HD Polish would probably work as well. It cuts even more than 205 and finishes better.



Strongly disagree that HDP cuts more then M205, HDP does finish down better.



HD polish vs M205 - YouTube



Joey and I have been using M205 and a Megs MF finishing pad for cutting on JB BMWs, solid black VWs and a solid white audi S5 as of late. It cuts very well with a dynabrade and of course the rupes bigfoot 21. After multi straight IPA wipes, the smallest amount of micromarring remains, a quick finishing with HDP and a white flat LC is all you need.
 
Scottwax said:
Good info, Bryan, got both polishes and a couple jet black BMWs coming up in the next few weeks.



I've never used the M205/Megs MF finishing pad with a regular r/o. Priming the pad with a good amount of 205 is the key. Also as usual keeping the pad clean.
 
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