Is applying your LSP and removing it by PC worht it?

I apply by PC most of the time except when I want *really* thin. Then I apply by hand.



I like to remove with PC though. I cna get the same results by hand but it takes a lot more work. I appreciate the effort the PC saves me on those rare days when I detail two cars in one day.
 
maecrispy said:
I apply by PC most of the time except when I want *really* thin. Then I apply by hand.



I like to remove with PC though. I cna get the same results by hand but it takes a lot more work. I appreciate the effort the PC saves me on those rare days when I detail two cars in one day.
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See I cant get thin without the PC, odd. I like taking it off (hehehehe) by hand, works out the arms.
 
Application with the PC is more even and quicker. I remove by hand also, for the enjoyment. Like unwrapping a present.
 
mochamanz said:
Application with the PC is more even and quicker. I remove by hand also, for the enjoyment. Like unwrapping a present.
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I really like that "unwrapping a present analogy". That's how I felt the first time I tried S&G! It seems there are a variety of opinions here. I have all the equipment for PC application/removal, by hand and by hand via Wolfgang's Polishing Pal. There advantages and disadvantages to each which have to be assessed in terms of product, time and available equipment. I have found that LSP's and carnubas come out a bit shinier with the PC and it is certainly the fastest once you haul out the PC, pads, cord cover and extension cord. I have silver cars and experiment alot to try a bring the max pop out of the paint. It is probably the best tool for even, thin application but I don't like to apply thin products with the PC, somewhat because of sling, but mostly because I see my expensive UPP or VM soaking into my expensive pad. I always use the PC to apply thicker products like original EX-P as well as to remove. I prefer to do carnubas by hand, you can whip on a new coat quickly without taping up trim (and CR-V's have trim!). I use Natty's and one extra reason to like it is that there is no rim on lip of the container, allowing the entire round to be loosened, placed on a square of plastic wrap to hold it without touching it and then give a single swipe to whatever applicator is being used. You can take a bit of the work out of thin even application if you get an even application on the pad first. I've found that just that little step is quite a time saver and frankly would never buy a paste wax that I couldn't do that with. An excellent compromise between hand and PC is Wolfgang's Polishing Pal at Autogeek. It is far less tiring to the hand than a foam pad and come with two light cutting and two polishing/finishing pads. For 15.95 you can't beat it and it speed the application and the thin/even layer beacuse hand pressure is more evenly distributed on the applicator pad. Buffing with the PC and bonnets (one for LSP removal and thicker napped one for final buff) workd well but I would recommend that product be removed by hand around trim, especially the trim on doors, to minimize dust collection at the edges of the trim that then have to be brushed out with a detailing brush rather extensively. The hand removal in these areas minimized this quite nicely, reducing the amount of needed brush work at the end.
 
I have problems in my fingers (thanks to 6 years of ice hockey, I'm an old man at 18), so application by PC or Cyclo is the only way to go for me. I actually like applying waxes by cyclo, as I feel that the higher speed/pressure, combined with soft LC pads, burnishes the paint to a higher gloss.



Plus, the cyclo is so well balanced that I can reach out holding only the end of the handle, and it'll still work without destabilizing/falling over and scratching something. Big help on the roofs of fullsize crewcab trucks or RVs. Only thing to look out for is to make sure you use overlapping passes, so you cover the ever-so-slight gap between the pads.



Before I got my cyclo though, I always used my PC with every product but S100. S100 was so easy to apply/remove that I could just put the applicator in my palm and avoid the pain. I found that the PC made a huge diffirence with cleaner waxes, as using NXT or Collinite cleaner boat wax (forgot the #), along with a polishing pad seemed to get out some grime/defects that would not come out by hand.
 
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