iron x paste for rust stone chips

G

Gravediggaz

New member
hey guys



I have a couple of stone chips that have a little rust in them and I heard its best to use iron x paste to remove the rust then use touch up paint



just wondering as I have not use iron x paste before....how do I apply it on the rust stone chips and how do I remove it?



thanks
 
Gravediggaz- I have zero experience with/knowledge of the IronX Paste, but when I'm faced with rust in stonechips I grind it out with a tiny, pointed diamon burr on a rotary tool. Or at least use a Rust Converter for my primer.



Or, I just leave 'em alone and polish/wax right over them. Been doing that for decades and it's never turned into anything serious; no, the chipped areas don't get bigger or rust out, or otherwise get worse.
 
I would second using some sort of rust converter product here. IX and similar are fantastic but they don't totally passivate the surface in the way that a good rust converter does. Were you to take a rusty iron plate and treat with IX, it will remove the rust, but leave it in the air for a while and the rust will begin to come back, rust converters will actually stop this happening so you have much less risk of there being bubbling under the surface in the future.
 
PiPUK said:
I would second using some sort of rust converter product here. IX and similar are fantastic but they don't totally passivate the surface in the way that a good rust converter does. Were you to take a rusty iron plate and treat with IX, it will remove the rust, but leave it in the air for a while and the rust will begin to come back, rust converters will actually stop this happening so you have much less risk of there being bubbling under the surface in the future.
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what is IX?? also I do not have a rotary tool, I was thinking about using Iron X
 
Why can't you use a heavy compound or polish to remove the rust. Then just wax or use sealant over them. You may be chasing a losing battle unless you have some serious or many chips. Then repainting the whole area is in order. JMHO
 
Gravediggaz- Unless the surface rust is *VERY* minimal, that's just not the right way to do it. I've tried that with products like ValuGard's "B" and it didn't work. The acids that are potent enough to do a proper derusting/etching are too potent for the surrounding paint, at least IMO.



Remove the rust mechanically. Treat with Rust Converter for the primer. Touch up.





MDRX8 said:
Why can't you use a heavy compound or polish to remove the rust..
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Or at least keep it at bay. I seldom bothered doing it to the point that all the rust was really *gone*, did it a few times but it sure took down the surrounding paint. But yeah...just keep it well-detailed unless you're gonna do the job properly.



FWIW, I went around the older Crown Vic and Dremeled all the chips, wiped them with "B", primed them with Rust Converter, touched 'em up with Dr. Colorchips, and leveled with their solvent. Far from perfect but plenty good enough for a white beater car. Wasn't all that big of a job, but it did take a while.
 
PiPUK said:
I would second using some sort of rust converter product here. IX and similar are fantastic but they don't totally passivate the surface in the way that a good rust converter does. Were you to take a rusty iron plate and treat with IX, it will remove the rust, but leave it in the air for a while and the rust will begin to come back, rust converters will actually stop this happening so you have much less risk of there being bubbling under the surface in the future.
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Perfectly stated and second rust conversion. What I do is use Iron X or Iron X paste to remove the excess iron. I then clean well and immediately use the blue stuff (forgot the name) but its at Walmart or amazon. After that let it dry, wipe chip with prep and then touch up with dr colorchip.
 
C. Charles Hahn said:
You're braver than I am; I don't trust myself with a Dremel near a small repair like that. I usually just scrape the rust out with a dental pick....
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Funny you should mention those, I have a few different sets of dental picks (as in, pretty many of 'em) but I don't use them for this.



Totally off-topic.... I scale my teeth with the picks on a regular basis, been doing it for decades. I'm kinda extreme when it comes to my oral health.



Back on-topic...the rotary tools are actually very controllable when used for this. The diamond burrs probably contribute as they're *very* smooth, don't skip/etc. when contact is made. I do tape off the area in question though, just in case.



Different rotary tools do behave differently though, and my Dremel isn't always (maybe not even usually :think: ) my tool of choice.
 
Charles, I have some "picks" I made that work for this and other things.

One thing I do when it's clean, it clean the area with some xylene or such.

Then, since I always have a rattle can of Dupli-Color acid etch primer/surfacer, shoot some on a piece of something and dip a very small brush it it and apply to the affected area.

Then comes the surface primer to build up the surface, then I go with the color or color/clear and we know what we do then to work it all down to even.

To me, the acid etch primer is very important, may not be to many.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Charles, I have some "picks" I made that work for this and other things.

One thing I do when it's clean, it clean the area with some xylene or such.

Then, since I always have a rattle can of Dupli-Color acid etch primer/surfacer, shoot some on a piece of something and dip a very small brush it it and apply to the affected area.

Then comes the surface primer to build up the surface, then I go with the color or color/clear and we know what we do then to work it all down to even.

To me, the acid etch primer is very important, may not be to many.
Click to expand...



Interestingly I do the same thing, but with "SprayMAX" etch primer I pick up at the PBE distributor (same difference). Definitely feel like it does a better job of sealing the metal back up.
 
Yup, surface primers do not stop corrosion, they are too porus and allow, over time moisture that does penetrate the clear/base/surface primers to reach down to the metal and start the process of corrosion all over again.
 
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